Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


Team Ultimaker
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by mattgriffin

  1. I have been finding that using the various tricks shared my community members and ultimaker staff here to dry out TPU — the low temp oven trick, similar to refreshing stereo audio tapes, or food dehydrator (like PrintDry or sorting out your own solution), or drying the filament on the bed overnight all lead to happier TPU processing. Any other trick that I am looking into that is new to me is bracing the Bowden tube up a few inches/cm so that the insertion angle is at a fixed true 90 degrees down into the hot end seems to reduce friction where it matters and allows retractions to perform more
  2. Hey Shaun! There are a few answers there -- some high-tech solutions and some practical solutions. But it really comes down to the environment around your printer. If you are in, say, Arizona, you can basically ignore the worry and print away! If you are in Malaysia, you'd better come up with an end to end sealed filament box chock full of dessicant to help counteract the hygroscopic thirst of that material. There are a bunch of PVAs and some are thirstier than others. I have found the Ultimaker PVA a bit hardier than I'm used to from the early days of desktop 3D printing and PVA, but I d
  3. Let me know if that technique is working for you! You can also take trusted elements and roll them into a machine and material profile etc. -- but I really like the Cura 3MF project files for templating right now. (Probably because I change slicing goals all the time, so am not zeroing in on only one.)
  4. By the way, I don't recommend taking apart your core, @gr5 has hundreds of hours of experience under his belt with that, and there are parts that are easy to break if you dissemble. If the PVA has sorta glassed in there, trying to get it reamed out of there with hand tools will be frustrating and not that succesful. So your best bet is using the heater cartridge as still assembled to get things moving again. And keep @kmanstudios 's best practices in mind for backing out material from the core in mind for the future. I'd suggest trying to cleaning examples above, grab cleaning sti
  5. ah, heck. there was a bug, the bug was squashed, and then I used this tool happily just a few weeks ago in 3.1 with a whole workshop full of people. Can you share the resulting patch of gcode at that height to match with these settings? And of course the cura version. I don't just want to help you (which I do of course), but I also need to use that plugin on Saturday!
  6. there are a couple of places to check, but i have a quick (if not cheap) thing you should start with -- keep those settings and grab some better filament than that Hatchbox. I'm not saying hatchbox is bad, but i think you should look at two similar filaments from different vendors and see if you get similar results. And then drop the temperature 5degrees or so and try again. How firmly is your bowden clamped on both ends? If there is play, well, that is not good. ;-)
  7. that is not big. The check is opening it in meshlab, meshmixer, and checking the density of the triangles. If it is just black with tight triangles everywhere, you might not need that much resolution assigned to that geometry (so it might be introducing more lines of gcode to process than you need). If not, the problem is elsewhere. Matt
  8. Well, while there isn't a handy api resource page for you to help you understand and interpret the various settings, there ARE a number of great custom profiles and the Ultimaker machine profiles themselves that you can load and inspect to learn how they function. The "house style" for Ultimaker is to use a cascade to stack profiles against each other, so that tweaks for a particular model or configuration are later in the cascade of inheritance than the features that apply to more ranges of models and configurations earlier in the inheritance treee. What this also means for you is that you ca
  9. Note that gr5s suggestion works best after a successful print, etc., where one of the last end.gcode actions is to withdraw the filament a bit, enough that you can use the lever to pull away the tensioner and do exactly what he says! As a result, my machines when cold can work great for swapping material quickly even when I don't have time to load it officially. You miss out from recognizing the precise filament if you are using the Ultimaker filament, though.
  10. I haven't seen an example where people have been dissolving away Breakaway Material, but it might help to note that there is a mix of PLA and TPU in this material. So the solvents like acetone and MEK would probably work BUT they would likely scar the PLA and needs some serious ventilation for you. It might work best to try a twisting action, should you be able to grip it, to dislodge it from the PLA so you can try to squeeze it out of tight openings. I'll keep my eyes out for tricks for trapped Breakway!
  11. Grab meshmixer from Autodesk for free and you can use that to intelligently repair and decimate. You can also use Netfabb. But probably there are export resolution settings you can adjust for fewer polys and a similar printed result. Check the filesize of your STL and if it is really large, this is possibly having an effect.
  12. yeah, I'd suggest taking a look at projects in the forums here, as well as checking out the how-tos for Octoprint out there in the world. There are some existing tools for octoprint that make this easier now, but there are also TONS of articles with details about which route to forward a port safely to access the camera. Combining those with some insights into how UM3 functions here from Daid will help:
  13. @kmanstudios - what is your luck with the PrintDry for processing waterlogged full spools? That was its intention, though I haven't finished setting mine up to really use it. I hear it is fantastic for nylons.
  14. The points in this thread about TPU (in each of its forms) being hygroscopic is worth taking seriously -- dry out that filament, and it will treat you better! but darned if I can fully eliminate retraction stringiness myself. I just tweak the model to prepare for this and disable retraction where I can. That won't necessarily help you now that you have something you want to print, but consider whether you can clip strings with a flush cutter afterwards.... I think you'd do fine with TPU 95A or NinjaTek's Cheetah -- very similar materials and the slightly less squishy durameter can
  15. There are a bunch of places where you can grab a borosilicate glass place that will remain flat at high heat from many suppliers, not just for 3D printing. Though there are plenty of off-brand suppliers that will offer you cheap borosilicate glass printing plates at the same or better that you can get from a local glazier! I would not just use any sort of glass, especially if you play with materials like PC or tough nylons that might bond to glass and break it! You'll cut yourself! But that said, glad you are able to make progress and get some good prints off of there, though. Thos
  16. There are a bunch of compatible substrates. Like for example, polyester clear plastic inkjet shipping labels are perfect — great bonding on the surface designed to accept inkjet, and transmits heat. Also, there are acrylic “digital ground” primers that bond to lots if stuff and similarly allow good cohesion. But the place to start is to look at the technical data sheets for the materials you want to bond to each other. Find out if they actually repel each other — requiring priming or mechanical cohesion strategies such as crushing the new material into the substrate so that you are tearjng dow
  17. Make sure to check the paths in Layer View in cura. You might be losing more of the really thin features if your model than you wqnt at that scale, and might have more luck if you scale it up a bit!
  18. There are a bunch of projects to convert cheap food dehydrators to filament dryers. In the US you can buy PrintDry from Matterhackers (the maker is canadian, so if in canada you might be able to get directly from him) — precisely this scenario all setup as a kit for you, but with some custom parts to make it work easy already solved by the kit builder. works great with pva and nylon, i have found! Also, i hear it is good for tpu, but never tried. I like this better than platform trip, and second KristelB’s notion of not using home oven. Not just because there is a risk if you bake it too much
  19. Have you tried decimating the design and reprinting? Those blobs usually result from issues with either underrun gcode caching, or fans/electrical pegging thet cause a tiny unintended delay. That would explain while placement is perfect, just results look ugly. If you exported from a pro CAD package and the resolution is over 1million polygons even though the part is simple, that would be something to encourage my theory.
  20. Yeah, right now you need to forward a port on your home router to allow sharing images from um3x to world. Do so carefully and intentionally! great advice shared with you above, just copied that to my own resources! Only three things to add: 1) save cura project files and date stamp them each time you print. Sure, you just need the gcode to print with, but that project file HAS all the settings in there, and you can even duplicate one, kill the mesh part currently loaded, and apply favorite settings to the new job. 2) print a feature test part before you print larg
  21. You can breakout the first layer and “bottom” layers (lowest vertical surfaces of the skin) to allow you to tweak just that distance and also the bed temp, active cooling, and extruder temp, depending on how machine is configured. My advice tends to be to raise bed temp a touch and make sure to get height right, but to be honest, i usually find my bed calibration isn’t true, my plate wasn’t clean, i wasn’t getting even heat transmission from my hbp (dust/glue etc between plate and hbp), or my extruder has muck on it when i’m tearing up first layers. I say that, but i think i just tend to
  22. Did you check to seen if that print length is out of scope for ui? Might be a bug with parsing the data to display, thus the date is correct. Ever submitted a job of this length before?
  23. Did you save stls, 3mfs, cura projects (has meshes!), and/or gcode for each? I’d love to hear which asset you version/archive and why!
  24. hey Zach, did the 130mm stipulation translate into a rough printing time goal? This is something that educators using 3D printing are always asking -- what's a handy size reference to encourage more parts to get printed. ;-)
  25. And make sure to check out the hundreds of leads and articles in the Ultimaker Education Pioneer areas: https://ultimaker.com/en/education Here is the Resources by Subjects resource, with an article on 3D printing in art education by DesignMakeTeach: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21899-resources-by-subject https://designmaketeach.com/2014/04/02/3d-printing-for-the-art-classroom/ We also mentions Tom Burtonwood, one of the School of the Art Institute of Chicago educators I was talking about! You are in good company, and are also doing great work they'd l
  • Create New...