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Liam

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Everything posted by Liam

  1. I have an UM2 and have converted it to 1.75 mm for use with a Palette. It still prints the same quality but can't print quite as fast due to stripping filament. I got the 1.75 mm conversion, a 1.75 mm bowden, and some new nozzles from the link below and am quite pleased with the print quality. https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um2-175.html Cheers, Liam
  2. I wasn't thinking of using a switch. I was thinking banana plugs or the like. Or a protoboard with screw terminals to switch the heaters and pt100s and the wires from the board simply soldered on?
  3. Would it be easier to simply use screw terminals or something to switch heaters and temp sensors instead of having to play with the software?
  4. Fair enough. Did you plug the heater and sensor into the ports where the dual extrusion was going to go?
  5. This is essentially what I plan to do. I am thinking about cutting the heater block and heat sensor cables and using screw terminals to easily switch nozzles without messing with the motherboard every time. Any tips on how to do this? I don't want to mess up my new components...
  6. Nice! I have bought one and am very excited to try it out!!
  7. That is really neat...What a crazy internal geometery!!
  8. Hello, Sorry if this is a duplicate, as I'm sure someone has asked this question. I have not found a post on it, however. I am converting my UM2 to 1.75 mm and am thinking about leaving my 2.85 assembly together in one slot and was wondering how to let Cura recognize this. Thanks, Liam
  9. Perfect! Thank you for your quick reply!! This forum is great.
  10. Hello, Is conductive filament abrasive enough to warrant a steel nozzle? Cheers, Liam
  11. Makes sense. The green-tec has enough stability under high temperatures to not warp as a fan shroud? Would it be worth milling it from aluminium? What about making a carbon fiber fan shroud?
  12. Hello all, What if the hole for the extra nozzle in UM2 was removed, as there will be no dual extrusion? This would allow the fans to be closer to the nozzle and increase bridging and overhangs, especially on the right side. Also a lighter printhead could move faster. Just an idea. Cheers
  13. Alrighty. Sounds good. Thanks!
  14. What do you mean by support roof? Is there a way to put a flat surface on top of the support to make the print not droop inside of the squares?
  15. Has anyone had any experience with this: http://www.makergeeks.com/pla3dfibymaf.html I haven't heard much about it, but I have heard stories of people buying cheap filament and it being useless.
  16. I just recently printed a bowl where the geometry of the lip was such that it would have been impossible to print it like a dome shape with the bowl upside down. The bottom of the bowl sagged into the support while printing and print quality was reduced. Would there be a way so that the squares in the mesh of the supports would get smaller as it got closer to the print so that the holes that were being bridged weren't as big? Would this save print time and material usage?
  17. Everybody's printer completes overhangs and bridges with varying levels of success and the current settings available in Cura make it difficult to recognize this. What if, after your printer finished a print, you could go back in Cura and highlight problem areas on the model so that these types of areas would be more likely to receive support or other 'help?' Just an idea.
  18. Yes, my kit has the dual bowden thing for about $9. You have to be careful that the inner bowden doesn't slide out through the feeder on retraction so I have a 3d printed part that takes care of this - photos on my store. I only have one 1.75mm bowden at this time. No one has ever ordered a 1.75mm kit despite heavy interest (none as of september 18 2015). Again I only have one kit with bowden - the other kits are without bowden. I have the conversion kit up on my store now (for usa,mexico,canada customers only - other's need to go to 3dsolex.com): http://gr5.org/store/ It's meant for people who have hundreds of dollars of old 1.75mm filament. I doubt it prints any better but we shall see. I only know of two people who think the 1.75mm *might* be better. I'm waiting for better tests and more tests. I have not tried 1.75mm (I don't have any filament). I am new to foruming (because that is a word) and don't know how to not reply to everything, so sorry about that. I have not received the printer yet and am planning on getting one of your kits; I will get one after I get the printer, though. Does the purchase of a 1.75 mm. nozzle alleviate the mushrooming effect that the smaller filament can have with the original nozzle? Also, is it $9 or $90?
  19. I am in the U.S. That would be great! How well does it work? Also, for the Bowden tube, would it be possible to just slide a different tube inside the existing one? Does such a tube even exist?
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