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Everything posted by swq0603

  1. Not sure it is caused by the EMI. Nobody hit the similiar issue?
  2. Now I am hitting a strange issue. My machine is the ultimaker go. I set the layer to 0.1mm. When the printing start, the Z motor should make the plate go down 0.1mm each time, but I find the plate go down >0.1mm randomly, which make the the full printing failed. Anyone hit the similiar issue? Thanks in advance!
  3. Yes, I tried this way before, and it is a good way. But it take me some extra space, so I occasionally print in this way now:)
  4. Got it. I think now it can fix this issue for me. Thank you cloakfiend for the long explanation. Now I can try a large model in this way.
  5. I means painting. I think the model which is painted with different color can provide a better effect:)
  6. Since each time the printed model is sigle color. Is somebody try to coloring the PLA printed model? I think it really can make the model looks better:)
  7. Thank you cloakfiend for the good suggestion. I think it is good when I am going to print a large model. But for the small model, it is a little inconvenient since each time I have to insert the filament before printing. 1 question, you use the length given by Cura to cut the filament before printing, right?
  8. Yes, it is really important to grab the filament after removing the printer. Thank you ultiarjan. But I am just a little confused why it is more likely to get tangled, since some guys use it and give a good result.
  9. It tangles. Thanks Labern for the information of this smart Filament Clip I will try in my printer.
  10. Sometimes the surface of my model is just like the under extrusion, but the speed and the temperature is fine.I found the root cause is that filament is bound in the spool,so the material cannot be sent to the hot end.Is there someone know how to fix this issue? Thanks a lot.
  11. Thank you Labern for the information. Then I think the machine can handle the sensor and the heater error. What about the motor? If the motor is blocked, it will run until burned out, right? Since I hit this issue previously, I printed 3 models, but 1 fall down from the bed to the bottom. When the printing is finished, the machine try to make the bed touch the z-stop, but the bed is blocked by the model. Fortunately, I heard that the motor is blocked and turn off the machine.
  12. Sometimes I print large model which is time consuming. It is impossioble I sit besides the machine all the time. So I just want to leave it working when I leave the office at night and check when I am back. But I am just worry whether the machine can deal with some emergency situation. For example, the motor is blocked, or the motor is too hot then cannot work, or the hot end/temp sensor cannot work during the printing... They are just my assumptions. But previously I always print during my working time, so even there is some issues with the printer, I can find ASAP. For Ultimaker2, is there some self-protection design for the mainboard or the firmware?
  13. Got it. Thanks neotko and Labern!
  14. I have been using the ultimaker to printing many models. Now I want to lubricate my axes. But from the user manual I found that for X/Y axes, I must use the sewing machine oil, but for Z axes, the grease included in the package is fine. I just a little curious why the sewing machine oil is a MUST for X/Y axes. Thank a lot.
  15. Thanks gr5 for the explaination. I think I hit not only one isssue with my machine. The first one is the over extrusion as I mentioned in this thread, which I have fixed it by changing the wrong step per unit value in my firmware. But when I printing the Marvin again, the surface of it still not smooth just like the bottom picture. I suspected it is related to the cooling fan. Since I changed a new fan days ago. Maybe the fan speed cannot meet the requirement. So I kick off another thread for help. Is it because the cooling fan? Yes, also I think the 90mm/s is a liitle fast for my printing, which can cause the under extrusion. But in my printing, it looks like the over extrusion. Do you think it is related to the cooling fan? Thanks in advance!
  16. I am using the PLA, the temp is 210 and speed=90. The flow is 63%. The pic is as following.From the pic 1, I think it is not a overextruding issue since there is still a little gap between each line. But from pic 2, I use the same parameter, it looks like overextruding. Now I suspected it is a cooling fan issue, maybe the fan speed cannot meet the requirement, which make the meterial cannot be cooled quickly. Then there is a poor surface. Not sure whether someone also hit the similiar issue before. Hope you can give some suggestions. Pic1: Pic2:
  17. Yes, I tried lower the temperature to 200 with a lower speed. But the effect is not very satisfied. I also tried lower the flow, which cannot solve this issue either and introduce the under extrusion. My understanding is that the following parameter can print most models: Later height 0.1mm Temp:210 Speed:90 Flow 100% But now it cannot work for me.
  18. Is it also related to the dirty nozzle or bed leveling?
  19. Hi, These days I found that the surface of my model is not smooth, looks like the over-extrusion But I have checked the amount of the meterial from the nozzle, it is fine. I suspect it is because the cooling fan for I replaced the fan days ago . Maybe the fan speed cannot meet the reqirement. Thanks a lot! BTW, I am using the following parameter: layer height:0.1mm temp:210 speed:90 PLA Another pic:(temp:220)
  20. Hi, Now I am using the UM2 machine and I find that there is too much meterial from the nozzle, so the model is not smooth. I check the meterial flow , it is 100%. Can I adjust this value to a smaller one to fix this issue? Generally, what value should I set for my printing? Thanks a lot.
  21. Thanks DidierKlein and leopop for the suggestion. Then I think the method is to give the tiny details more time to cool. I will try the way you mentioned.
  22. Now I am trying printing a architecture with pitched roofs. But the top of the pitched roofs is not satisfied, since it is very thin. During printing , the nozzle is very close to the model. So it is melt by the nozzle and move with the nozzle together. Btw, now I am using 0.4mm nozzle. Is it possible to make a good result for the pitched roofs with a smaller nozzle such as 0.2mm. Thanks a lot!
  23. I find that there is a solder jumper in the circuit diagram of Ultimaker 2. I just do not understand what is the solder jumper. Why there is a solder jumper added to the nReset. Thanks in advance!
  24. My understanding is that I can use the filament conversion kit to change the filament quickly between the 1.75mm and the 3mm, just like the Olsson block, right? Is there a link to show how it works? Now I am using the 1.75 filament, not sure what the the difference of the model with 1.75mm or 3mm filament. If it is convinient to change, I also want to have a try:) Well in theory this would make the extruder move faster but you would really have to get the settings just right. It would be really easy for it to over extrude. The printer isn't accurate enough at such low microns between the feeder and bed. You get a lot more control at 0.04 and I find the quality much more repeatable and a better finish. If you are wanting to print at those layer heights all the time then I would recommend getting a geared feeder or 1.75mm filament conversion kit or both.
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