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swq0603

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Posts posted by swq0603

  1. Yes, I tried this way before, and it is a good way. But it take me some extra space, so I occasionally print in this way now:)

     

    I have my UM2 on a board above the desk, kind of a deep short shelve which is mounted to the wall. The reel is standing below on the desk on a simple stand with ballbearings. Not a single issue with tangled filament up to now 8) At the same time the printer is protected from vibrations of the desk like when you bang your head on it, bite into the edge or hammer the keys of your pc ;)

     

  2. Got it. I think now it can fix this issue for me. Thank you cloakfiend for the long explanation. Now I can try a large model in this way.;)

     

    By all means do what works for you, im just saying what i think is best for me. I have had some spools tangled at purchase which meant even if you had the best ball bearings in the world, you would still get a tangle, its just bad luck, and i choose not to have it. I have my ultimaker on the floor in the corner of my kitchen so that is not an option for me until i tidy up my garage anyway.

     

  3. Thank you cloakfiend for the good suggestion. I think it is good when I am going to print a large model. But for the small model, it is a little inconvenient since each time I have to insert the filament before printing. :) 1 question, you use the length given by Cura to cut the filament before printing, right?

     

    You might waste a tiny bit of filament here and there but in my opinion printing off the roll is the only way to guarantee zero tangles ever. I have not had a tangle since printing like this, and i do long prints, sometimes 50hrs plus.

    20150425_140758.thumb.jpg.2f7d7517bd0c9ce09ce1a7f4ec49e101.jpg

    To avoid waste cut off as much as you can fit on and make sure it is perfectly laid out just like a spring without any overlapping and your prints will look the best they can. This is the only way i print. I gave up printing on the roll for the same reasons you are complaining about. There is no other solution that guarantees zero tangles, only this.

     

  4. Yes, it is really important to grab the filament after removing the printer. Thank you ultiarjan.

    But I am just a little confused why it is more likely to get tangled, since some guys use it and give a good result.

     

    I strongly advice against using these printed clips, as they make it more likely to get tangled filament IMHO. The only way to avoid this is to grab the filament after removing from the printer and immediately fixing it to the spool edge.

    I use these clips for it.

    clip.png.fe51022c2276f9362661ebaba5c966e2.png

     

  5. Thank you Labern for the information. Then I think the machine can handle the sensor and the heater error. What about the motor? If the motor is blocked, it will run until burned out, right? Since I hit this issue previously, I printed 3 models, but 1 fall down from the bed to the bottom. When the printing is finished, the machine try to make the bed touch the z-stop, but the bed is blocked by the model. Fortunately, I heard that the motor is blocked and turn off the machine.

     

    There is protection for the heaters. If there is a problem with the temp sensor the it will stop the machine, alarm and cut the power to the heater.

    The machines a pretty safe and I leave mine going all night all the time.

    The main problem is if you enclose the printer unsafely, but if its in it natural state then i don't think you have anything to worry about

    if you are still concerned there is a unit that you install above the printer that has a smoke alarm that cuts power to the printer if it detects smoke. Its not for sale any more but you maybe able to rig something up.

     

  6. Sometimes I print large model which is time consuming. It is impossioble I sit besides the machine all the time. So I just want to leave it working when I leave the office at night and check when I am back. But I am just worry whether the machine can deal with some emergency situation. For example, the motor is blocked, or the motor is too hot then cannot work, or the hot end/temp sensor cannot work during the printing... They are just my assumptions. But previously I always print during my working time, so even there is some issues with the printer, I can find ASAP. For Ultimaker2, is there some self-protection design for the mainboard or the firmware?

  7. I have been using the ultimaker to printing many models. Now I want to lubricate my axes. But from the user manual I found that for X/Y axes, I must use the sewing machine oil, but for Z axes, the grease included in the package is fine. I just a little curious why the sewing machine oil is a MUST for X/Y axes. Thank a lot.

  8. Thanks gr5 for the explaination. I think I hit not only one isssue with my machine. The first one is the over extrusion as I mentioned in this thread, which I have fixed it by changing the wrong step per unit value in my firmware. But when I printing the Marvin again, the surface of it still not smooth just like the bottom picture. I suspected it is related to the cooling fan. Since I changed a new fan days ago. Maybe the fan speed cannot meet the requirement. So I kick off another thread for help. Is it because the cooling fan? Yes, also I think the 90mm/s is a liitle fast for my printing, which can cause the under extrusion. But in my printing, it looks like the over extrusion. Do you think it is related to the cooling fan? Thanks in advance!:)

     

    You have 2 completely unrelated issues.

    Bottom picture:

    The top of Marvin is too small and doesn't have time to cool.  No amount of fan will help - the only fix is to print something else nearby to give marvin 3 seconds to cool between layers so the nozzle isn't always touching molten PLA and keeping it hot.

    Usually I will just print 2 marvin's side by side.  Alternatively you could print a tower.  Make sure you are in "print all at once" mode otherwise it will print one marvin and then print the next and both will have bad top.

    Top picture:

    Try to keep the flow always at 100%.  90mm/sec at 210C and .2mm layers is too fast - you will get underextrusion (as shown in photo).

    Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):

    20mm/sec at 200C

    30mm/sec at 210C

    40mm/sec at 225C

    50mm/sec at 240C

    The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

     

  9. I am using the PLA, the temp is 210 and speed=90. The flow is 63%. The pic is as following.From the pic 1, I think it is not a overextruding issue since there is still a little gap between each line. But from pic 2, I use the same parameter, it looks like overextruding. Now I suspected it is a cooling fan issue, maybe the fan speed cannot meet the requirement, which make the meterial cannot be cooled quickly. Then there is a poor surface. Not sure whether someone also hit the similiar issue before. Hope you can give some suggestions.

    Pic1:IMG_3049.thumb.JPG.9c5638f50268ba0a68aae6f66f2fd8fa.JPG

    Pic2:IMG_3010(1).thumb.JPG.9c062f676258b9e7f9962537453209cb.JPG

    IMG_3049.thumb.JPG.9c5638f50268ba0a68aae6f66f2fd8fa.JPG

    IMG_3010(1).thumb.JPG.9c062f676258b9e7f9962537453209cb.JPG

  10. I'd say you can print at a lower temperature also. This leaves the material cooler to start with.

    Possibly when you go lower you might also need to go a little slower

     

    Yes, I tried lower the temperature to 200 with a lower speed. But the effect is not very satisfied. I also tried lower the flow, which cannot solve this issue either and introduce the under extrusion. My understanding is that the following parameter can print most models:

    Later height 0.1mm

    Temp:210

    Speed:90

    Flow 100%

    But now it cannot work for me.

  11. It indeed looks like a cooling problem since the problem is the worst at the overhang. Altough there are a couple of things that could also cause these crappy kind of prints. I would try to clean your nozzle and level your bed just to make sure before you start ordering new fans

     

    Is it also related to the dirty nozzle or bed leveling?

  12. Hi,

       These days I found that the surface of my model is not smooth, looks like the over-extrusion But I have checked the amount of the meterial from the nozzle, it is fine. I suspect it is because the cooling fan for I replaced the fan days ago . Maybe the fan speed cannot meet the reqirement.  Thanks a lot! BTW, I am using the following parameter:

    layer height:0.1mm

    temp:210

    speed:90

    PLA

    IMG_3010(1).thumb.JPG.9c062f676258b9e7f9962537453209cb.JPG

    Another pic:(temp:220)

    IMG_3046.thumb.JPG.0cf356ced3291b485373d1245a8c6eba.JPG

    IMG_3010(1).thumb.JPG.9c062f676258b9e7f9962537453209cb.JPG

    IMG_3046.thumb.JPG.0cf356ced3291b485373d1245a8c6eba.JPG

  13. Now I am trying printing a architecture with pitched roofs. But the top of the pitched roofs is not satisfied, since it is very thin. During printing , the nozzle is very close to the model. So it is melt by the nozzle and move with the nozzle together. Btw, now I am using 0.4mm nozzle. Is it possible to make a good result for the pitched roofs with a smaller nozzle such as 0.2mm. Thanks a lot!roof.JPG.b0b035c134a58c6de93b808042fc0ece.JPG

    roof.JPG.b0b035c134a58c6de93b808042fc0ece.JPG

  14. My understanding is that I can use the filament conversion kit to change the filament quickly between the 1.75mm and the 3mm, just like the Olsson block, right? Is there a link to show how it works? Now I am using the 1.75 filament, not sure what the the difference of the model with 1.75mm or 3mm filament. If it is convinient to change, I also want to have a try:)

     

     

    Should a larger nozzle (0.8 or 1.0mm instead of 0.4) allow me to use smaller layer-heights and thus better vertical surface finish and detail if horizontal details are not the concern?

    Currently I use 0.020 and 0.015mm (20 micron and 15 micron) and the limit seems to be that the flow rate of the extruder(smooth motion) and of the hot-end (heat creep=expansion) can't go lower then this while the Z-drive has 5 micron per full step.

     

    Well in theory this would make the extruder move faster but you would really have to get the settings just right. It would be really easy for it to over extrude.  

    The printer isn't accurate enough at such low microns between the feeder and bed. You get a lot more control at 0.04 and I find the quality much more repeatable and a better finish.

    If you are wanting to print at those layer heights all the time then I would recommend getting a geared feeder or 1.75mm filament conversion kit or both.

     

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