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rebekah_harper

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Everything posted by rebekah_harper

  1. Hiya every one, I need to ask the community a favour. Those with UM2+ and that have upgraded the firmware using latest cura, Can you check the material profile for ABS and let me know the bed temp? Can you also check the max temperature you can manually set the bed to in the advanced maintanance menu? Reason I'm asking is that mine is Max'd out at 100 degrees. Nothing I do allows me to set it to 110 for my prints. My material profile states 90 I've printed with ABS for 3 years and never printed below 110 as the prints start to peel of the bed. The support team are looking into it but I am unique in this problem. Many thanks in advance Becky
  2. Hiya, I got a notification for a firmware update so I initiated it. Now my temperature won't go above 100 deg. Anyone else have the same? Becky
  3. If you're getting blobs instead of lines forming a frame then either you're under extrusion or not hot enough. You can set the supports to print every 2 layers which makes them 0.2mm layer if you're printing with a 0.1mm layer res. What printer are you using? If you can attach the factory file I can have a look at it. :-)
  4. Hiya, I never used the S3D bed levelling option. The machine's bed levelling works just well. I would suggest just to use the that. on a side note: I never use more that half the nozzle width as the layer height. By which I mean a 0.4mm nozzle I would never exceed layers of 0.2mm. S3D's layer height I would use 100% or less. with a little extra extrusion multiplier so it squeezes more into the bed for adhesion. hope this helps Becky
  5. Hiya, I've not flipped my motors and my UM2+ runns pretty much contant. I've not had any overheating problems. Becky
  6. I've run my Wanhao for 68hrs with enclosure and it seems fine most my prints are 20hrs or more.
  7. I've used s3d for 2 years now on a Wanhao D4S and am pretty comfortable with the software. Using an extrusion multiplier of 1.0 a measured filament diameter of 2.95mm Extrusion width of 100% I get this on a 20x20mm hollow cube. You can see it mushrooming indicating over extrusion.
  8. Hiya all, Decided to make a little box for the tools that come in the cardboard box.
  9. I use a micrometer to measure the diameter each new reel, then set it to that.
  10. So to compensate for the increase in size I've got to extrude more?
  11. Nope I don't use auto settings. Basically it's extrusion multiplier is at 0.9 Width 0.25 Speed adjusted manually
  12. S3D printer profiles setup include steps per/MM If the ratios have changed within the mechanism of the printer between 2 and 2+ then it would have an effect. I've never had a problem to this degree with ABS. I know it shrinks but never had this much.
  13. Hi guys and gals, I need to know the steps per MM for all axis and feeder for the Ultimaker 2+ I use simplify3D and they don't have a profile for the plus so I've been using the std UM2 profile. All my prints seem to be 1mm smaller (using 0.25 nozzle) The parts have a fantastic finish but size is an issue. Any one able to help?
  14. Hiya all, Is there anywhere that announces firmware updates for UM2+ printers. i can't believe there would be any yet but just wondering if there was anywhere they would be announced and what changes are contained in them listed. regards becky
  15. hiya thank you. the width is already around the 250mm so the front sits diagonal on the bed. Length of the cab is about the same if you include the spoilers. (i've already built this in 1/14) but the overall truck length is going to be around the 1000mm mark
  16. fair one, with that said, I thought I'd google ABS temperature 3D printing and it varies from 230 upto your suggestion. I am getting perfect prints at 230 so I ask the question: Is there a higher temp requirement due to the filament diameter? if so does that mean I am straining my machine?
  17. Wow, I'm surprised by that. I've only gone as high as 235c for ABS which is higher than most manufacturers recommend but I do it for the finer nozzles.
  18. Hiya all, Thought I'd share this build. Admittedly it's at the start of it but I'm doing this for the TCT show for my filament supplier. It's a 1/10 scale Seddon Atkinson strato. I've also found people are having problems with printing ABS on the UM2+ so I thought this would also be an opportunity to show it can be done along with using simplify3D Due to the size of the truck I'm printing the cab in 10 different parts and glueing them together. Here is the bottom front in progress It's also give an idea to people as to how S3D does its support. More of my work is on my FB page Rc-truck-design if any one want to see more :-)
  19. Just to add my two pence. Build this: It's on thingiverse. ABS needs a more controlled environment due to the cooling stages and shrinkage. Then add Buildtak, it's a print bed covering. Very good stuff. Then print at normal settings 108 on the build plate and 230 on the nozzle. Enclosure is essential. The plexi glass cost me £40,- cut to sizes.
  20. I've used S3D with My Wanhao and now for my UM2+. there are a number of options in the retract settings and in the advanced. the extra retract when a negative value is used it will stop the filament short by that amount from the nozzle. A possitive value will feed that value in addition to the normal retract setting. there is also the wipe option to consider. However in the advanced tab (if I remember corectly) there is a 'retract whilst wipe' On the UM2+ I have my extrusion set to 0.9 with 6mm retract, 2mm wipe and retract whilst wipe ticked. the results are great. the layer settings is to aid in adhesion to the bed. so you can have a lower layer, have 120% extrusion multiplier and 50% speed to really put it down. but I don't have it as such. just 110% extrusion multiplier. the support structure is a scaffold style. which basically builds a platform upto the over hang. the density of this frame work can be adjusted to be either spars or dense (%) then you have the dense layers that form the new bed for your part and the number of layers it forms. please also note that you can set the resolution which is set in mm. the lower the value to smaller the over hang it will try and support. but this is in conjuction with the angle you set ( I have set it to 45deg as standard) you can also increase the area the support covers beyond the boundary of the part. The part preview tool is very hand as you can use a section view in x, y or z axis. you can analyse how the layers sit on top of each other. version 3 has also seen the addition of the unsupported area functions expanded to allow the layer of the unsupported area to over lap the part by a value you set. finally the Script tab give all you GCoders the oppertunity to add a whole load of automation to start and end code, cooling tool change (dual extruders) etc I could go on and on. It is supirior to most if not all software slicers out there just based on it's versatiltiy and the results are better than I have had with a few of the others. If you are stuck or dissapointed, don't dispare, go to the Simplify3d community forum and I am sure the answer is there or I could give it a go to help out but please bare in mind I am using a Wanhao D4S and a UM2+ with Simplify3D. hope this has been insightful Becky PS: the developers are definately from the US
  21. Got this off thingiverse. Yesterday I received the plexi glass cut to size according to the specs and put it together. The difference it has made to my ABS prints is fantastic. Highly recommended Plexi glass cost me just shy of £40,- winner Becky
  22. That sounds brilliant. Looks like I might be upgrading to ultimaker then. I do require the details and also print small parts. Thanks guys Becky
  23. Hiya every one, I was wondering if any one has changed their nozzle to a 0.2 mm I currently run my wanhao D4S with both 0.4 and a 0.2mm nozzle and was wondering if any one has done similar on an ultimaker? Many thanks Becky
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