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rebekah_harper

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Everything posted by rebekah_harper

  1. It's set up for UM3 but I am sure you can use the script for a UM2+ profile. It's set up so that the nozzle waits for the correct heat when changing. So I would copy and past the start script and paste into the start script for the UM2+ profile. should give you what you need. I'll keep an eye out, if you need any more help.
  2. hiya, my german is poor so I am not 100% what you are asking for but here is a profile I worked on to get UM3 to work with S3D. hope this is what you were looking for. My UM3 profile bex
  3. so the difference between the QR and the DDG apart from the obvious is the Steps/mm? as they are universal, could 2 QR's be fitted to the UM3?
  4. This, plus: - Filament that is easily accessible - accessing from the back is a joke - Firmware that doesn't glitch 24/7 - Cura that actually works quickly and reliably I bought an UM3 for its reputation for reliability and quality - I mistakenly thought it would be 'print and go' - I've had nothing but problems. At the moment I can't even send a Simplify 3D print via Cura to the printer (using Simplify 3D because Cura is awful). The supported underside of prints are a complete mess, stringy and not flat. I should be able to just print it out of the box perfectly and only mess with settings if I want to - not have to change things because they don't work in the first place! Hi @TitaniumApple, sorry to hear you seem to be having some issues with your Ultimaker 3 and general user experience. I would like to invite you to open up a new thread where you elaborate a little bit more on the issues you seem to be having and hopefully we'll be able to provide you with some tips or fixes to significantly improve your workflow. Please let me know when you have to be sure I don't miss it. Thanks! Ok thanks for the offer of help - my main issue right now is not being able to print at all with Simplify3D, whether through Cura or USB: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/52023-um3-and-s3d-g-code-unable-to-send-print-job-to-group Thanks Hiya, I sometimes get an issue with printing through USB with S3D but it's more getting it connected rather than printing, hence I usually use the SD Card. I am wondering what you mean with using S3D through Cura. the only way would be to save the G-code with S3D then open the G-code with cura. only reason I can think of is to use the print over wifi and/or cura connect. so I have a genuine curiosity as to why you want to do it this way. Bex
  5. I just ordered 2 over the weekend direct from bondtech and they shipped Monday and arrived today (Wednesday) - very quick delivery and impressed by the build quality As cjs recommended, just get them direct. thanks, sounds good to me. don't think I can get away with getting 3 in one go lol. the other half may not see it in the same way as I do. :( I am keen to see the results for my jobs I need to do.
  6. hiya, all sounds good. I was wondering how the dual drive works. I can see how one of the gears is driven by the stepper through the back but the other I can't see how it's done.
  7. Please don't take offense...note the arrow and question mark on the left side. nah that's ok. I didn't notice the ? and thought it was what I thought it was. but never mind. the answer came in the end. just a graphics thing not much more.
  8. Are you referring to the blue out line of the model? I think it's to show the extremities of the model whilst you are analyzing the layers for printing. Bex
  9. Thank you. I am aware of the limitations, just want to allow for some play in the settings. I will consider changing things around on both the UM2+ and the UM3 who in the UK is an authorised dealer for these as I couldn't see them on 3dSolex's web shop. many thanks Rebekah
  10. CJS, I have been looking at this for a while wondering if this will be the way to go. I print with 0.15mm nozzle regularly. so slow speed is required. more as the stepper struggles at the slower speed. but go higher and there are a few problems there too. so am I right in saying that the bond tech has stepped it down so that in order to extrude the same speed as factory, the stepper motor requires to turn faster? Bex
  11. hiya I would agree with GR5 on this. I have a UM2+ too and never had this problem as such. If the above solution doesn't work I'd heat the nozzle to about 215 at the most and manually push it through. I might be that the nozzle isn't hot enough to melt the remaining ABS. (unlikely but who knows) or just load it as ABS and once pushed though change the material type.
  12. Hiya, you'll find that if the material is susceptible to warping that the thicker the part the worse the issue becomes. it's like a tug of war. on one side there is the adhesion to the bed and on the other side is the shrinking of the layers. the more layers the more pull is created. with that in mind you can add direction of the pulling force. if you have a a straight wall then then you will find that the pulling direction is strongest along the length of the wall. longer the wall, the more pull is created that way. understanding that you then should be able to appreciate that discs/circles fair a lot better. add some brim and you shouldn't have any dramas.
  13. this is where I got mine from. https://www.fireplace-stove-glass.co.uk/
  14. if you're first layer height is at default 0.27 then I'd say the nozzle is too close to the build plate. however check the line widths and see what values there are. if they are wider than 0.4 then it might be worth a try setting then to 0.4mm also check the diameter of the filament and ensure they are set correctly. bex
  15. hiya, try this. elevate the back left corner with some paper. I used 0.5mm but for me it as at the back right. then level the build plate again. once you have done that use the menu to raise the build plate. Or manually do it by lifting it by hand and possible rotating the Z screw. get the nozzle nice and close. then move the head left to right at the back and see if the height varies. if it does adjust the relevant corner with small sheets of paper. one happy check all around the build plate to see how it has affected the rest. you may need to adjust a little with the screw for levelling the bed. but once you have done it that should be you. and subsequent bed levelling done through the menu should result in near level build area. Bex
  16. well I went for it. going to see how it goes. bought two for £54,- including postage looking good so far. the glass is pretty flat so I have high hopes for it.
  17. I would agree with you there but when the print is offest by 2mm in the Y axis in the same direction. regardless of the offset within the calibration menu. I set it both to +2 and -2 and no change. I did do the calibration print and it was meant to be -2. so if it's not that then what could it be? it used to be fine but since firmware upgrade it's been like this. having said this it was only last night that I needed to use the hardcore so I hadn't noticed it.
  18. Hiya, Just been trying to print with my 3D solex hardcore and it gives me a message saying incompatible. I then have to override it via cura connect but it seems to override everything including the the xy offset. I changed the offset by +2 and -2 with no change. What have you done with the firmware that doesn’t allow third party cores? It’s a big issue for me as I need it desperately to work. Any advice would be appreciated. Rebekah Anderson.
  19. Hiya all, I know this type of question has been asked before but I need some specific help. I am on virgin media with the 3.0 hub, router. I want to be able to connect to my printer from outside my home network but I am falling short and looking into this I am not able to find the info I need to set it up. I understand that I need to connect to my router first like a VPN and then I should be able to use local network IP Addresses. but I am not sure how I am able to do this. I understand there are security risks but I would like to to this non the less. many thanks rebekah anderson
  20. Wow...totally missed that...Duuurrrrhhhhh... Thanks for setting me straight..... I will go back to me hobbit hole now........ nah don't go to the hobbit hole, there are still more unexpected journeys lol
  21. Depending on the tolerances involved, that could create other issues in your print such as making other areas smaller than they need to be. An example would be if I have a widget that is printing just fine at the designed width, and it needs to be that width to slot into something else or be accurate, then the hole would be made more proper and the rest would falter. I think it is better to learn the tolerances, the why of things and then learn to design around that. totally agree, I was just pointing out the fact that DB wondered why the hole got smaller when he applied horizontal offset and he quoted a positive value. I design all my stuff with a tolerance depending on the feature I am designing.
  22. There are a number of issues that I don't seem to have. I use google chrome on my home computer without any issues but at work I use google chrome too and there I have a blank page which I can scroll down but there is absolutely nothing there :( It used to work on my work computer before but since a month or so ago nope.
  23. if the hole is smaller that designed you need to use a negative number in the horizontal offset.
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