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xxxprod

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  1. Hi @Labern, @gr5 I've had similar issues on other test-prints and printing a copy in parallel seemed to solve the issue as there is enough time too cool down. Simply reducing speed doesn't seem to help much but having a second object to print does. Thanks for the tip!
  2. @tinkergnome: Thanks, this looks like a promising way to go. I'll give it a try tomorrow and will post the results here. @cloakfiend Why someone would need this? Well, maby I don't and I'm just not used to the way one's supposed to work with 3D-printers but even if you have to clean the bed for the next print it's 1) one way to the printer to get the card + 2) one way to the computer to insert the card and upload the scheme + 3) another way to the printer to finally print it. if I just want to test a quick change because I made a mistake at the previous design this costs a lot of time and back-ache If I could send the file directly to the printer I would still have most of the time at least 30 secs if not 1-2 minutes until it really starts because of the heatup in which I can clean the bed easily while still saving one way to go
  3. Did you try the steps mentioned here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/9619-shifted-layers-of-umo-print? Seems to me that this is a relatively common problem. Have your tried these steps recommended in this thread?
  4. Hi @chrili_rakete why would you think IGo3D would not fullfill any warranty claims? I've just ordered there (from Vienna) and they seem to be super quick and supportive!
  5. The firmware has 8kb memory, of which 75% is used. So a file of about 1,5 kb could be sent this way. And how about accessing the sd-card (which remains in the printer as storage or "cache")? Since it can read it, writing to it shoudn't be too complicated.
  6. But that's what I was reffering to: if you transfer all the data before the print and send some checksum to verify that the data is ok, then the printer doesn't need any more communication while printing. It would be as reliable as putting the data manually on the sd card. And I can see that people might think it's not worth the hassle because if you print lots of things that take many hours to finish, the little time spend changing the sd card is nothing compared. But if you are just experimenting, don't have the printer and the sd-card reader right next to you, you run kilometers just for the sake of switching sd cards
  7. I really don't understand where the problem with usb-printing is. You just have to send the data to the sd-card on the printer. After that it can print completely on its own again. Don't see that being too difficult.
  8. Ok, with some support I managed to print it ok: But I'd still like to know if this should be possible without too because the diameter is not too wide as overhangs should be a problem or am I wrong?
  9. Hi, I'm trying to print something like this: which should be a plate of about 1.5cm on the sides and the cupola is 8mm in diameters and 0.5mm thickness. The print starts fine but when the UM² tries to close the dome it fails somehow: Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? Or am I hitting here any limitations because of the thin walls? But that would be the case if the dome would fall inside no? It seems somehow as if the UM2 is pushing to much material at the end.
  10. Thanks for all the hints and specially to @Dim3nsioneer for the concrete answer!
  11. Hi, I'm searching for a project a semi transparent material that diffuses light very well. I've tried "milky" acrylic glass but that works not as good as I hoped it does. Now that I've got the Ultimaker² I saw that the transparent side walls would suit perfectly to my project but I have no clue what material it is and where to get it. Can anyone tell me of what it is? Any hint would be great! Thanks in advance, Thomas
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