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JATMN

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Posts posted by JATMN

  1. This is likely a dumb question but I wanted to double check.. before I hut myself lol

    Hacking up a Ultimaker 2 Clone and rebuilding the head completely (if I can)

    But wanted to check on a few things ahead of time

    I see the UM2 uses a 24v heater core.. Will the mainboard handle any standard 24v <40w core like the ones used in MK9/10 heads? (yes I know these are too big for the Ultimaker2 brass block.

    Also, does the mainboard support 100k sensors? I know its just a switch in the firmware settings, but does it read these as well? I know most mainboards dont read pt100 sensors without some modifications.. but wasn't sure if this meant the board couldn't read other sensors now.

    *please don't hurt me* :O

    Thanks!

  2. Didn't work.. :(

    Section 72  for pins.h

    Was..

     

    #define E0_STEP_PIN         42#define E0_DIR_PIN          43#define E0_ENABLE_PIN       37#define E1_STEP_PIN         49#define E1_DIR_PIN          47#define E1_ENABLE_PIN       48

     

    Is..

     

    #define E0_STEP_PIN         49#define E0_DIR_PIN          47#define E0_ENABLE_PIN       48#define E1_STEP_PIN         42#define E1_DIR_PIN          43#define E1_ENABLE_PIN       37

     

    didnt make a difference.. put known working steppers on both E1 and E2 at same time didnt even make them buzz.. this was in repeater/s3d as well as "move material" from the display. all with hotend heated to 190-210C   :(

  3. Compine the marlin firmware for your um2 chaging the pins.h editing the extruder pins. China boards use to be poorly finished so, use extra cooling.

     

    OMG thats totally what I was looking for!! will report back my results for everyone else..

    Also thanks for the heads up.. thought it was interesting the board came with little heatsinks.. ill be sure to put a fan on this thing lol

  4.  

    I have been building this printer as well recently.. but I ran into an issue with my ulticontroller. :( I know its cheap china crap issue likely.. but I cant get any stepper to move on E1 (move filament or load filament) doesn't do anything..

     

    and you are doing a full test with the heater one I assume? You are aware there's a protection that the extruder won't work below a certain temperature?

     

    Yea I read about that.. I confirmed the heater was to proper temps.. I have a actual UM2 sitting next to me as well..

    I also found out that because I couldn't finish my build due to delays in customs for other parts I had on order.. I cant open a depute on this controller because im less than a day late of the cut of.. *crys*

  5. Thanks for giving an actual response and not just blasting me. lol

    Not had my UM2 but a couple of months and getting use to this firmware

     

    Hi @JATMN , or was that BATMN, sorry.  Thanks for taking the time to reply, appreciated. Well firstly your 2nd para is, as I understand it, wrong, or I am misunderstanding what you are saying, you did not type what you were thinking, or I am wrong.

    LOL!

    If you are using the bed levelling wizard then the firmware assumes that you have then set the bed at the z=0.1mm height (width of paper)  and calibrates itself accordingly so that its z=0 position has the bed 0.1mm closer to the nozzle - i.e., just touching it.

    Honestly didn't know this. Mine didn't have a card at all if I recall correctly.. But it also does not have a hole in the back on the right side for a second extruder motor either. Thanks.

    Before printing the 1st line of layer 0 (ie Cura’s "1st layer” ) the gcode sets the z position to the measurement of your “1st layer thickness”, in your example .300. So the gap that you have to extrude your 1st layer into is 0.300, not 0.12, or to be absolutely accurate in your example, 0.320. I would add that if UM have now issued a card that measures 0.12 I assume they have changed the firmware accordingly.

    Not complete convinced of this but ok.. because at .3 and .2 my printer is starting at the same level from the glass as it was when I leveled at.. This is evident because at .3 it is massively over extruding so much that it causes the extruder to skip and the 2nd layer the nozzle is grinding across the surface of the first layer. Which looking at S3D would make sense for my thoughts because it does first layer by a % of your layer height. So if im printing at .150 layer.. and first layer is 150% of layer height would make since why .3 is way too much. as that would be 200%

    Not that material really; if I change the z-offset by 0.04 I can always see a change in quality of 1st layer but if I change it by 0.02 I cannot see a difference; sometimes I think I do but it is so marginal that the reality means it really makes no difference. I make my changes in the gcode rather than twiddling the knobs so I know my stated figures are accurate.

    I try not to adjust z-offset, but good to know

    If you choose a 1st layer height of 0.1mm then gap you have for printing that is 0.1mm. In essence therefore I think what you are saying in paragraph3 is not valid. Also as I have just said a change of 0.02 in the gap will have no noticeable difference on a  layer height of 0.300. I know, I have been there, done it. If I have to re-level the bed, e.g. nozzle change, I will always go that final 0.02 change and it never makes a difference.

    Very interesting.. Honestly not tried .1 first layer I figured that's what it would due do to the massive change from .3 to .2 in my tests.

    NOW perhaps what you are saying, except  you did not, is that the thinner the 1st layer used the closer the bed needs to be to the nozzle to improve adhesion. Whether or not that is true, I have no idea. But I am going to test that today and report back :)

    Totally where I was going with this.. which I guess while not true with the UM2 and Cura.. it is however completely accurate with my Duplicator 4 (sailfish firmware) and S3D.. .050 prints I have done lots of on that printer.

    Also you said in para. 4 “with a faster print speed to prevent too much over extrusion”. I am not convinced on this. Changing the speed over a given distance does not change the volume of filament extruded – check your gcode; it just means your printer has to extrude the filament faster – which is why, unless there is a good reason, it is always better to use the same speed for every movement on a given layer, i.e. do not run you wall speed at 40 and you infill at 80 - and yes sometimes there are reasons, if you can get away with it.

    I understand your infill vs wall speed part.. but as for my reasoning for faster print speed for over extrusion.. I have tested this part extensively.. I had a VERY noticeable difference in my first layer with running at about double first layer speed than what was default while at .2 first layer height.

     

    ;)

  6.  

    Hmmm...

    Not seen the spacers myself.. but in theory sounds like a bad idea to me to have a spacer in between the PTFE and the olsson block..

    Thx for the link!

     

    The Spacer replaces the spring above the PTFE just like on the new UM2+ models. helps stop constant pressure from the spring, deforming the PTFE.

     

    Ah!...

    https://d3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net/photo/image/2500x0/56a91e7edbf70.jpg

    I was looking at that picture and figured the black ring was another spacer going under the PTFE.. Yea I seen top spacers before..

  7. Hmmm...

    Not seen the spacers myself.. but in theory sounds like a bad idea to me to have a spacer in between the PTFE and the olsson block.. thats just another transition point for material to get stuck in.. stock with an olsson.. you already have the PTFE to Block transition.. then Block to Nozzle transition. So you have 2 places where the material could *potentially* get stuck if either are loose or not mating correctly.. this was the one pro of running the stock ultimaker block was only 1 transition point to troubleshoot..adding a spacer you just added a additional point of failure for smooth feeding of filament..  Meaning you have 3 possible issue points to possibly induce feeding issues.  

    Just my thoughts on the matter though..

    Thx for the link!

  8. I always use 100% flow so I think it's a little strange that you have to mess with that.  I've messed with it many times but 100% works great for me.  Anyway - I don't recommend you do anything different - just letting you know.

    You can get mad at me or your printer all you want - I'll be fine and it won't affect my responses in any bad way.

    It sounds like your main issue was with the ptfe coupler which is interesting.  I sell the 3dsolex one - it's called TFT and is higher temp (255C) than the one that came with Um2.  I think um2 has learned some tricks form 3dsolex - more than just the olsson block but also I think they may be shipping higher temp teflon soon (might be a few more months).

    I think overall in addition to having a bad teflon part you were just pushing the printer too close to the limit.  I know you said you printed at slower speeds but  I'm concentrating on your grinding problem and it's confusing if possibly one of your 2 issues went away with the lower speeds but not the other so you ignored that.  Anyway... lets concentrate on heater error.

    Some of the heaters that come with um2 - although they are supposed to be 25W some of them are as low as 18W.  I sell 35W and 40W heaters if you want to get one of mine.  Or you can remove the heater error from the firmware.  Also you may have a bad version of the firmware - here is a history of heater error - it's easy to check your firmware version on the front panel of the printer:

    heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor)

    You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power):

    Firmware

    Version

    14.09                - does not have the feature

    14.12   oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds

    14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds)

    15.01   jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

    It turns out when daid introduced this feature into marlin his printer had a larger wattage heater than the standard um2.  So if you have version 14.12.* you should upgrade firmware.  If you don't have 14.12.* I recommend you buy one of my heaters at gr5.org/store/

     

    Over all my print issues in regards to feed seems to be resolved.. I did have to change first layer to .2 rather than .3 because I level the bed closer than most it seems.. But I am able to now print with material flow set to standard 100% I have also done equally successful prints with S3D as well.. So I am considering that part of the issue resolved.

    I *think* I have the 15.01 firmware.. I believe I updated it earlier this month. But I will have to double check that this afternoon.. Looks like I also have to take the head apart again and see what my heater core is.. I never really looked at the marked specs when I installed the olsson block..

    Also.. TFT?? Im in manufacturing myself.. Honestly having an issue locating a source or even a material compound specification for TFT.. I see TFE/FEP/PCTFE/PTFE.. The materials I can source is rated for 500F/260C.. TFT is generally related to mini color LCD displays..

  9. I don't know a lot about this one.. but to me.. 3.68mm is a massive gap.. I only have about 1.3-1.5mm gap on mine..

    I don't think yours is going down far enough it should be touching the top of the olsson block.. inside the steel coupler....

    If you bought one of the PTFE insulators from china its the wrong size.. they make them oversize and they dont fit down in the coupler correctly.. some reason they think there needs to be a pressure seal between the ptfe and the steel.. when the main issue is having a equal seal between the PTFE and steel as well as the PTFE and the top of your extruder block...

    The ones I have picked up from china were completely over sized and never touched the top of the block.

    Also can I get the link for that fan shroud :O

  10. First / Initial layer height 0.2 very good choice. I can not explaine but I started to use this twelve months before. Until now it is always working nice but 0.1 and  0.3 is terrible.

     

    I can probably get away with .1 or .15 first layer.. I have to up my speed to 40mm/s else I have over extrusion still because of how close I level the bed.. I am use to my direct drive which wont care even if its leveled with the nozzle on the glass..

  11. JATMAN!!! that like BATMAN? lol I like that.. (its actually an abbreviation :p )

    @yellowshark, when printing the first layer regardless of thickness your slicer software (I presume cura is used in this case) will -over- extrude the first layer to help with sticking to the bed as well as compensate for any out of alignment of the bed leveling.  

    So lets consider a scenario for a moment.. say we level the bed with a Ultimaker card specified in the first post which measured in at .12 and we want to print at .2 layer height.  presuming cura default (at least on mine it did this) to do a .3 first layer would be okay because (generally a even multiplayer of your set layer thickness  at around 100 - 150%) but basically your trying to force .3 worth of material in a gap of .12 this will force the layer to be bold. But will help it stick as well as compensate for any warp in the bed that might make the gap larger or small than .12

    Considering above.. Now we want to print at .1 layer (or ever .050!).. well .12 is quite high and we will need again to use a .3 first layer to get a good first layer and stick well. But this could make for a ugly first layer due to the rest being .1 (or .050) so lets level with .10 paper now..  this brings the gap down considerably across the surface of the bed. Remember if there is any up warps (all printers have some sort of warp in the bed) we just potentially caused the nozzle to get closer than intended to the surface. Pushing .3 into this now smaller gap would cause lots of over extrusion as well as back pressure on the extruder depending how hot your printing. So lets use a .2 first layer for our print now.. should get a nice clean first layer with minimal over extrusion and it wont look as noticeable compared to the other layers printing at .1 (or .050)

    Just how I look at it.. I always level with thin paper I think mine is actually thinner than .010 and I always print .1 to .15 layer height rather than the norm of .2 so I have my first layer set to .2 with a faster print speed to prevent too much over extrusion.

    Sorry that was sorta extreme explanation.. :O

  12. I'm glad to see you are on the path to successful printing.

    You come off rather unappreciative of the steps gr5 offered you, though.

     

    Im not trying to act like a jerk, LePaul.. but if you read thru the whole thread.. I had already done nearly everything gr5 had offered up. Not to mention (which is already said in the thread as well) I have spent an excess of over 100hrs troubleshooting this issue which is enough to make any one brash with comments about doing something that has been tried 10 times already.

    Also my latest comments about what fixed my issues.. is only mildly related to any advice given in the topic thus far.  This isn't my first printer.. the other was a cheap Chinese clone of a replicator printer which had me nearly drop kicking it across the room to figure out all the issues with it before it started running flawless prints with repeatable quality.  So I had an idea of what to look for with -some- of the issues for the UM2.. but despite that part. My issues have all been around the bowden system (my other printer is direct drive) and a warped heatbed.

    I don't intend to be short with anyone offering advice (its how this hobby works isnt it?) but when you hear the same advice over and over and has nearly no bearing on the issue at hand.. it starts just sound like meaningless rambling of not paying attention to the steps that have been done already prior.

  13. @jatmn I had the same issue with getting temp errors at 230 and above.

    The reason of this issue was that my Olsson block was touching the fan shroud a little bit and that was enough to give me these errors. If you use the default shroud, make sure it's not touching the Olsson block...

     

    Good to know.. but I am using.. v2 of this..

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-olsson-block-fan-mount

    Though mine has started to melt on the bottom despite being wrapped in kapton tape.. looks like it might be a little close to the block though so maybe retaining too much heat? As soon as I finish this bulk print I will be printing a new shroud and mounting it much lower..

    Any other thoughts?

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