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JATMN

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Everything posted by JATMN

  1. niyoki, Good read.. retraction is my next setting to tune because im getting too many pimples and strings on my print. I will look more into that article. ------------------ Ran 5hr print last night and it finished successfully. I also addressed a 1st layer issue which you guys have been harping on me about. I had never been able to get a good 1st layer in the back right 1/4 of the bed due to a massive warp in the bed. Which is hard to adjust for due to only 1 adjustment screw in the back and raising it to make the right side good meant the left side the nozzle was -on- the glass. To address this issue I took the time to remove all 4 bed clips and put silicon pads on the heat bed which floated the glass. Pre-heated the bed to 65C and then leveled it. Lastnights print included printing that puzzle piece from prior posts in 4 different locations in the bed. This time after floating the glass the piece in the back right had exactly same first layer as my front left which has always been my best location on the bed.. Right now the printer is running better than it did when I took it out of the box and ran the first print which was the Ultimaker Bot. Atomic pulls are easier and feeding of the filament is easier as well. than it was when I first got it. --------------------------------------------------------------- For anyone else having issues similar to mine. My fixes were as follows. - Roberts Extruder Mod - Upgraded stock hotend to Olsson - Swap out the Bowden tube for a longer one (approx 3-4" longer) that is 4IDx6OD (Stock was 3IDx6OD) - Replace PTFE Isolator (think fbrc8 owes me a PTFE Isolator because there was clearly an issue with the pre-installed one, dont blame print hours. Please read thru this thread to understand!) - Removed bed clips and floated glass on silicon pads (Warning doing this makes it easier to move the glass during part removal so take extra caution when removing parts after prints) - Changed first layer size in Cura from .3 to .2 - Change first layer speed in Cura from 20mms to 40mms ----------------------------------------------------------------- Still not sure why I get temp sensor errors at 230C though... This will be an issue long term as right now I can only print to around 228C before getting temp sensor errors.
  2. Was able to get my first successful print (after about 6 tries) The scar in the surface was from not enough retraction though.. and its set to 4.5mm / 35mms Working Cura settings.. Layer: .15 Shell: .8 Bottom/Top: .6 infill: 20 Nozzle: .4 --------------- Initial Layer thickness: 0.2 (.3 was wayyyyy too much over extrusion for how i have the bed leveled right now) Bottom layer speed: 40 (20 was too slow and caused over extrusions and skips) -------------- This was only one part.. trying 4 up with print one at a time in Cura see if it can handle it or not now.. Also cant get my printer over about 228C else it will randomly temp sensor error during print.. which sucks as I have printed ABS just about a month ago with no temp sensor issues.
  3. So took the head off and replaced the PFTE liner and found the spare that came with my printer. which was completely a different size.. which does not make sense even if the old one had melted because it was still as stiff as it was when I put my olsson block on with barely 30hrs on the printer. Anyhow Slice with Cura.. base speed of 60mm/s and set material temp at 230C (PLA) Start printing with massive over extrusion even at the second level.. ramp the speed to 150% and the flow to 80%.. Monitor for about 10min and notice the second layer surface isn't quite as smooth as I am use to.. up flow to 85%.. about 5-10min later.. printer freezes with temp sensor error. DAMN IT.
  4. Current extruder pressure as requested. Looks like I can go slightly more pressure per your guide.
  5. Some tips for leveling.. When leveling the print bed.. pre-heat the bed to the temperature you would normally print at and let it stay there for a couple minutes to let the metal and glass do whatever expanding or warping it might do.. Then start your leveling processes.. As for how high to level the printer this really depends on the layer height your trying to print at.. the Ultimaker Card should be fine for .2 prints and probably .15 prints but doing .15 and down I would recommend using the paper. Also another tip.. when running prints set some brims that are off set from the print a little bit (not touching it) and print like 2-6 brims (pending how big the print is) and watch it as its printing each brim and you can quickly make slight adjustments to the knobs under the bed while its going around to get the right levels that your happy with all the way around the bed before it moves in a step and starts the real print.
  6. Maybe you missed my first post.. I had the -exact- same issues with Cura and S3D, I use them almost the same amount with my UM2. I can understand cura users not liking S3D.. I love S3D for my other printer it has made a world of difference. Now that printer aside.. My UM2 I didn't even -start- using S3D until almost 2 months of ownership of my UM2 and using -only- Cura.. and like I said before.. I have had my issues since day one. I was trying very hard to spend those 2 months to use the printer with the intended slicer to avoid addition issue factors.
  7. Please eliminate your concern to my bottom layer issue. This is rare that its an issue. 95% of my print failures is from layers 2+ not sure how this discussion has started hammering my first layers.. Im well aware that if the nozzle is too close to the bed it is unable to extrude properly and builds up pressure against the glass. As for picture for the pattern I will post one this evening when I get home, currently at work. The reason this part is starting to upset me is because I have had both shown patterns and everything in between and they all resulted in the same issue.. I have even gone as far as putting the largest arm for the Roberts extruder mod to smash the material nearly completely and got back stepping (most likely due to the strain from smashing the material).. as well as putting the shortest one so that it was barely grabbing the material and again back stepping I have had this printer since late October and have yet come up with a reason to recommend this printer over a $400 china printer as far as reliability is concerned. Im sure you can understand my frustration at this point. -when- it prints.. It prints great, but its never on my own leisure..
  8. gr5, While everything you said is very useful and relevant.. I have seriously addressed every single statement you made in my pre-posts.. Except the UM2+ upgrade kit.. As for retractions.. My issues occur regardless of retractions.. it can seriously have been 2-3 min since last retraction and have skipping or back stepping on the extruder..
  9. Not sure what you mean by what does it look like.. I mean it doesn't look damaged.. the wires are secure and don't look damaged or burnt or anything.. Motor doesn't get nearly as hot as the X & Y motors.. The hob is clean and still quite sharp.. Glad to see someone else stepping up with this issue, Everywhere I look even on other forums it seems this issue just disappears or gets ignored.. Something that makes no sense right now.. During my 6hrs of test printing last night I was able to get 1 print that was -ok-.. I was screwing with settings like crazy mostly trying to cause under extrusion or force a immediate jam.. My print that was -ok- had some interesting settings.. .4 nozzle from official Olsson Block set (the one that came with it not a replacement).. Atomic pulled clean and perfect prior to running print.. Simplify3D settings.. Nozzle: .25 (its a .4 and measures as so when extruded!) Auto Sized to .30 by S3D Print speed 60mm/s Print temp 230C - PLA (this material brand sweet spots at 220-225C on ultimakers recommended temp is 230C per manufacture. I print it all day long at 200-210C on my Duplicator 4) Some how running at .25 nozzle setting has prevented -most- of the extrusion skipping.. Still has issues though..
  10. Checked for this.. it was not dis-formed.. but trimmed it back anyhow.
  11. This is my array of failed prints.. the top right is nearly perfect.. all the random colored ones is due to extruder skips and thats 6 solid infill layers still showing transparent against a white table. Of 7 of those.. only 3-4 are even usable..
  12. This material is not brittle at all.. Even this extream barely started to put stress marks in the Filament.. And this is PLA This by the way is the section of material that was in the bowden tube after that failed print.. as noted by the chewed up filament at the bottom of the picture where the extruder gnawed thru it.
  13. The material moves effortlessly thru the PTFE and olssen block when cooled to 45c
  14. well your the first to mention something like this.. in fact my filament does usually have a "mushroom" type head on it usually during these jams.. but could not figure out what caused it..
  15. Lots of possibilities, and with bowden extensively more.. :( pressed too much with the bowden? not sure I follow you on this? can you explain more.. I have also adjusted retractions from 0.5 to 6.5mm (figured my new over-sized ID tube might have material slack in it, but did these tests as well with stock bowden)
  16. Niyoki, I know what you mean.. But this isn't my only printer.. but my other is a direct drive. I also spend a better part of my free time giving my time back to the community groups helping with extrusion issues I am very active in flashforge and wanhao communities on facebook and google groups.. but one main thing that is different.. nearly all the people I help use direct drive extruders... And also like I mentioned.. I have tried running PLA at 230C and still had this issue.. Its really a silly issue to me.. My wanhao duplicator 4 has a direct drive.. I have had one extrusion failure in 250 print hours and that was because a tangle on the spool.. I have had about 30 or so extrusion failures in 200hrs on my UM2.
  17. Honestly not sure what that will help with as it looks like any other print failure I have seen, But as I guess you should see what im talking about I will take one when I get home.. I have a failed print from last night still on the print bed waiting for me to clean it up after work.. I believe it failed during one of the first solid infill layers on this failure.. around 5min or so into the print.
  18. My normal is .15 layers usually.. and around 210-225C for PLA.. normal print speeds around 40-55mm/s
  19. I was just thinking about your comment.. For the most part if the PTFE is indeed worn out.. this would mostly come into play during retractions right? But I will have some of these skips/jams in the dead middle of a surface print that has not had a retraction at all in quite some time. Pressure from printing on the glass shouldn't be the issue. as I can have this issue on any surface.. or even long perimeters which has not had a retraction in awhile due to the perimeter being so long.
  20. I have considered the PTFE coupler but not touched that part as.. this started happening.. literally in the first 1 1/2hrs of the printer's life. Soooo if the PTFE is shot.. it was shot when I got it.. Otherwise mine has about 400hrs+ on it. I -usually- print bellow 220c
  21. http://fbrc8.com/ - Is the primary support and parts supplier in the USA. I ordered my printer from http://www.dynamism.com/ and all the packaging as well as the printer was labeled with fbrc8.com
  22. Dont Twist it!!!!!!! You can break the plug!! I find I have to use 2 hands.. one hand holds the wire and the other I pull the sleeve back and wiggle it slightly and it comes out.
  23. I am still in the middle of my Love-Hate relationship with my Ultimaker 2. Got it in October (2015) and have yet to enjoy the honeymoon stage of owning a Ultimaker. My printer basically has ADHD, at times it will print for days with no issues. At times I will spend days trying to get to print past the second layer. I have read thru -every single- topic on the forums that I can find for this issue. Either the fixes have no effect on my issue. Or the topics are abandoned. Randomly (sometimes continuously) my extuder will make a skip which directly causes a defect in the print surface (beads instead of lines), this really sucks when its doing it on the outer perimeter and if its a small print the whole print is ruined because now the middle of the part is weak and breaks in half with no issue. Sometimes this issue rectifies itself, which is still and issue as now my print has defects, which at times has ruined the print anyhow. Sometimes this issue does not rectify itself which results in print failure because either the head or the extruder is now jammed and will no longer print for the rest of the print.. I have had countless prints fail like this. What makes no sense at all.. Is most of the time. If I happen to catch the issue and cancel the print right away.. I can preheat the nozzle and extrude filament as normal.. (so why the heck did it stop during printing??) When I don't catch the issue obviously it just grinds its way all the way thru the filament. (this as honestly cost me nearly a roll in wasted material combined when this issue occurs) The printer has done this with the stock extruder an with Roberts v2.. with the stock nozzle and with the olsson block. At first I tried to blame this issue on my filament.. But I still have the original Ultimaker filament that came with the printer and I have had the same issues with this filament as well. I have about 12 rolls across 3 or 4 different brands of filament and they are all PLA and they all have this issue randomly. Most of the time I have no clue what fixes this issue when it starts working again.. It just starts working after 2min - 6hrs of messing with the printer to get it to print. My Wanhao Duplicator 4 is direct drive and prints without fail.. why does this thing skip on material ALL the time.. - I have honestly spend over 100hrs monitoring and troubleshooting this issue. - I have Maxed out the extruder temp (I am only printing PLA!) - I measure all my filaments before loading and have set the material size right at, smaller, and larger in the printer settings. - I have adjusted print speeds from 20mms - 150mms - I have adjusted material flow rate during prints as far as 70% - I have used Cura and Simplify3D, with both default settings as well as tweaking flow, diameters and nozzle settings. - I have a olsson block but the stock block had same issue as well. - I have run the speed test ring I seen posted here before that tests how fast I am able to get the extruder going and can make it all the way to the end with no defects in most cases. (unless I am having this issue then sometimes I cant even finish the first zone) - I have replaced the stock extruder with a Roberts v2 (re printed this a few times even) - I have adjusted the spring to be barely touching the material and also wrenched - I have maxed out the amps setting on the printer for the extruder motor (no difference) - I have moved the spool off the printer to a stand which holds the rolls on bearings to reduce friction as well as used Roberts spool holder. - I have replaced the bowden tube with a longer one with a larger ID to attempt to reduce friction.
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