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  1. hi, have you tried to use the search engine of the forum?? Try it! for every query you have 10 thousands result for your search!! So don't tell me that I don't bother trying your technique because it is literally buried under 10 thousands of others post.... And I NEVER write to you or someone else that kapton have benefit with PLA!! The post is about ABS printing! -->>POST TITLE: Getting ABS to stay on the print table without Acetone
  2. I find this technique a bit complicated, even if make the ABS print comes out pretty well from the support. It could be nice if you could make a video of the entire process Regards
  3. That's nice! :)but I will never take off a printed piece from bed with pliers ;)even if I understand that when you print something that doesn't need to respect strictly your design dimension, is a fast way to detach it..... (and you should at least mention material; printer settings, or that are optional so this forum doesn't serve at nothing?) Other story is about how smooth is your print... showing so small area where the print looks good but not smooth as you could have printing on glass or something that reproduce the same roughness... that's how it could looks on kapton (that isn't a
  4. You have not to proof anything to anyone, even less me... but if you like to share something I think you should, at least , make those info accessible for all, don't you? Or this forum is mere a place to show other how good are you at 3D print without making any advantage on reading it? Cheers
  5. I dont have any agenda regarding methods of adhesion I only stated the ones I have up to now that I managed to get to work. If I can get kapton to work for me then I will use it. The best methods are the ones easiest for me to use and currently it is glue sticks but if I need to use another method then I will I dont care what method I end up using as long as I get successful prints. When my second glass plate arrives I will revisit the Kapton route and follow the advice given...........if it fails to work for me then I will continue with the gluestick but if it works I am happy to stay wit
  6. ?? Are you kidding right? Ok... first: 1) If you have used Kapton once how can you have the knowledge to comment?? 2) Fact no words! show me something, photos videos... or you are just writing to spend your time and mine (as you have replied to me....)... 3) I never wrote glue stick gave you BUMPS on the print I write it's UGLY (there is difference, isn't it??) 4) The glass bed plate isn't on a rock mounting support and when you take it off to clean it you HAVE to realign no excuse... or your alignment is 1 or 2 mm (millimeters), so in this case you don't have to realign it .... (mine i
  7. Perhaprs it's only my "bad" thought but...seems that someone have some particular interest on pushing glue-stick vs. kapton 1) Kapton and glue-stick are both good for ABS... BUT: 2) Kapton can manage multiple print; if you pay particular attention almost """"infinite"""" as Kapton doesn't change shape, don't make any dirty, don't attach to your print head, don't attach to your printed object 3) you have not to make any realign of your bed after each print 4) you have not to clean your bed after each print!! 5) it is not as expensive as you tought! AMAZON 6) you don't waste your time cle
  8. Hi With the kapton tape you cannot have failed if you got any problem is due to the fact that you must clean the kapton with a paper towel wetted with acetone after you stuck it (the kapton...) on the glass bed And it is not an optional it is a must to clean the surface before print on it, to remove any trace of grease .. Your problem will be after the print .... because on kapton tape, ABS get stuck as hell ! Another way can be use a sheet of kapton but it is nice for big print but not for small ones :( With big print it's almost impossible to remove them from the print bed if you
  9. I still think that Kapton is still the better way to print with ABS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdAdWmQpd8U But I never find it mentioned on answer... it's quite odd... Seems you all like to clean the bed glass often and often after every print... getting rid of that sticking glue on it... anyway everyone have his own procedure to feel happy and this is some cheap ABS bought from RS Printed at 240°C Bed Temp 52°C Speed 60mm/sec Layer height .15mm Brim 26 and finished
  10. Wish to know if the PTFE coupler is 15% Glass Filled or 25% Glass Filled? And I like to know if the retraction made by filament at the end of the print should be avoided as IMO is the problem of PTFE deformation. I wrote my last sentence because after I do a "Move Material" from menu at the end of every print I have no more problems of filament stuck or under extrusion problem at the beginning of the next print
  11. Hi, well mine last just 50Hrs (fifty) before get deformed!! But I preferred to modify it rather than replacing it... I thought that the problem of the coupler depend on the excessive pressure the spring put on it and that at the end of the print the filament get retired back too much, letting the hot plastics get in contact with the PTFE coupler!! BUT.. you can avoid premature end of your coupler if as the print finish you enter in the Maintenance Menu-->Advanced-->Move Filament and move the filament back in the hot end rotating the knob ...made some kind of "priming" of your print hea
  12. I am trying this one of RS-COMPONENTS right now
  13. Thank you for your answer IRobertI Well, no issues with the other 3 step motor (X;Y;Z) just the feeder motor have some issues sometimes ... By the way, as you can see in the end of the video I was printing a test and the issue come out well over the brim level... it was finishing printing at 3mm cube/sec... I thought that the nozzle is not hot as it should be... even if the temperature was set at 215°C My thought about limiting current on step motor is that it reflect on the device capability to maintain its force torque... but it's true that it is a way to limit grinding (but I don't th
  14. What you call "a safety feature" I call an issue :)I thought it is just point of view... but a stepper motor that loss step for over charge is not a feature.... Questions: I found that by default the current driving the stepper are all at 1300mA except the one of the feeder that was at 1250, a little difference but why? And another question is why this limit to 1300mA when the stepper are rated up to 1680mA? p.s.: I think that Atomic pull is overestimated... I use a PTFE rod like this to clean the hot end, so you can leave it clean without addition of other material inside the hot end
  15. Hi, it's a problems that comes out when the machine is still "cold" usually while "brimming" the step motor loss step making a, quite loud, "TOC" noise . I've filmed it but for some reason audio get stripped off!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdNbDgeL2W0 As you can see the feeder knurled wheel suddenly make almost half round backwards ! I've raised the current of the motor from 1250 mA to 1300 mA (the max current set possible) but nothing have changed. Any suggestions?
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