jofleck
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Posts posted by jofleck
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Finally I decided to order a few things to build my Mark2 machine?. I played around with the Cura profile and noticed that the build volume even in single extrusion mode is limited. Is there a trick to unlock this area when printing with only one extruder, or should I use the normal UM2+ profile when printing large parts with only one extruder?
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3 minutes ago, dxp said:
Maybe REC?
This filament wasn’t good at all for me. The diameter was variating a lot, buildplate adhesion was horrible (warping) and the color (in my case red) was a transparent red color.
Maybe RECs facility had a bad day. I ordered three spools in different colors and all of them had the same problem except the transparent color
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You can just use the old UM2 feeder motor. Just adjust the steps correctly and you're fine
Awesome! Thank you
Just for my interest. Why did UM change the feeder motor in the Um2+ upgrade to a less acurate motor (1.8° per step instead 0.9°) ?
QuoteIt's a bit more expensive ofc but I would prefer to get a bondtech feeder
First I want to have a Mark2 setup working for using PVA in the second nozzle. If this works I'm sure that I want to try more ?
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The feeder stepper servo used in the 2+ is a 200 step/rev type.
Any recommendations which motor exactly? I tried to find an original e-stepper in several UM reseller shops but I dint't succeeded ?
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Hey Folks,
a few months ago I upgraded my Ultimaker 2 to the + version. So I noticed that I can use my old printhead (with Olson block) for the mark2 upgrade, right?
So I need only the feeder. Which motor do I have to buy? I don't want to use the old feeder stepper. My plan is to buy a second UM2+ feeder at AliExpress. But I don't know which Nema stepper I need exactly. Can you help me?
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Thanks guys ? Well, I think I have a lot to do the next weekend with playing around with my settings.
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Currently I'm using PLA filament from 3djake.com (they are selling their own brand which I use and other brands). Im really happy with it. The colors are good and strong and the surfaces are good too. 1kg costs something like 22€ which is really cheap. (notice that the spools are bigger then the usual 750g spools) .
Currently I'm testing their own PETG Filament which costs 30€ per kg.
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So the nylon presets are even hotter than the CPE settings. I tested to print the filament with 210°C and noticed that the layers are not sticking together. So the temperature label on the spool must be incorrect.
Thanks ?
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Hey Together,
I ordered a spool PETG filament from 3djake.com own brand. On the spool there is a recommended temperature of 195-220°C. On the website they recommend 230-250°C. The Cura default CPE setting (240°C) is working well.
So printing too hot is not good due to toxic fumes etc.
So what is the best temperature to print with PET-G Filament? Maybe someone tried 3DJake filament yet?
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go to http://<ip of your printer>:8080/?action=snapshot -> You should see a snapshot
go to http://<ip of your printer>:8080/?action=stream -> You should see a stream
If this works try to reset cure connect in the menu of your UM3E. Maybe your printer just returns a wrong or no stream url
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Is it possible that you accidentally switched on the vase mode?
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Hey guys,
I upgraded my Ultimaker to the 2+ version. When Im changing Filament and the feeder is running fast, you can hear the the gears. Our UM3 at work doesn't make this noise.
I've made a video for showing this problem:
Are these noises ok or is something wrong with my feeder?
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Hey folks,
I own an Ultimaker 2 Since 2015. Now my hotend is really worn. The plastic parts are broken, the temperature sensor is temporary fixed and Im using a printed Fan shroud for the Olsson block which breaks after each second replacement of the teflon coupler. So I decided to buy the Extrusion upgrade kit to get rid of these problems. The UM2 is a good working reliable printer and I see no reason to replace this printer.
I want to keep using this printer as long as possible because I'm a student and can't afford a new one in the next three years.
So the UM2+ is available since late 2015 and I'm asking myself how long official replacement parts will be available? Do you know something about this?
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Hey folks,
I resolved the problem. Maybe someone has the same problem. So here is the solution:
I installed Cura on another Computer and tried it. On this machine everything worked fined with the default settings. So I enabled all settings and compared them with the settings on my primary computer. I noticed that the initial layer temperature was always 20°C hotter than the normal temperature (This setting was hidden). In my Case 230°C for the initial layer was to hot. When the printer began to retract about 20 (!!!) layers later, suddenly liquid filament dropped out and after this I had underextrusion the next few layers.
I have no explanation why the initial layer temp was alway 20°C more. I reinstalled Cura and deleted all corresponding files. Now its working like a charm
But really, really interesting that a to hot temperature can affect the print even 20 layers later....
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Hey folks,
I own an ultimaker 2 for a while. Usually Im using simplify3D + Octoprint for slicing. Now I gave Cura 3.2.1 a try because I really like the octoprint integration and the tree supports are absolutely awesome. However I have problems when Im printing objects which needs a lot of retractions. I am experiencing underextrusions every few layers so I can break the model really easy. Currently I'm printing at 0.1mm layer height with 40mm/s and 20mm/s inner and outer wall speed. I'm retracting 4mm at 25mm/s (Same settings as in simplify3D).
I played around with speeds, other filaments (I'm printing PLA) and temperatures. Nothing helped except slicing the model with simplify3D.
Do you have any Ideas?
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Perfect :)Then I´m not worried while printing
Well that certainly should be clear when you buy a 35W heater. Specially if inly says Ultimaker 2 Family.
And thats the problem. The heaters aren't labeled as a 35W heater. In the moment I haven´t a use case for a more powerful heater. I don't care about waiting a few seconds longer for heating up. I just wanted a replacement which works out of the box and I think many other users too
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Hey everybody,
this week my heater cartridge of my UM2 needed to be replaced because of a broken cable. So I ordered a new one labeled "Only compatible with the Ultimaker 2 family". After I replaced the cartridge the temperature of my UMO2 overshoots and oscillates in a range of +/- 10 °C.
I noticed that there is only one version with 35W available. The original Ultimaker 2 without the extrusion upgrade was shipped with a 25W cartridge. So I took the PID values from the UM2+ which uses the 35W cartridge -> No Problems.
M301 P10.03 I1.5 D70.00M500
It would be nice to have an option in the settings menu for selecting the cartridge version.
So did I something wrong or is that the normal behavior with a 35W cartridge? I didn't find the old 25W version
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Ok at 195°C i get really good results with no or maybe one pillar in the whole print. Below this temperature the quality of the top layers gets bad. But from 210°C to 195°C I can see absolutely no difference between the quality (Except the pillars )
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Wow thanks for the fast replies.
...different printers are different as the temp sensors can vary by +/- 20C (usually they are within +/- 5C)...I checked the nozzle temp with an IR thermometer. I don't now how accurate it is but at 210°C set on the UM the IR thermometer said something about 230°C and this is definitely too hot. So this evening i will try to print something at 190 set on the UM.
I will let you know about the result
Thank you very much!!!
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Hi
A few days ago I bought an Ultimaker 2 and Im very happy with it. As you can see in the picture, I have a little problem. Everytime when I print a model with free spaces and retraction is used, I get these ugly pillars. They are easy to remove but then the surface isn't smooth. I tried to play around with my retraction settings but it didn´t solve my problem. I increased the retraction speed and lengths to 5,5mm and 45mm/s. Also I tried to set the minimal filament and retraction distance in Cura (15.04.2) to zero. I saw my last chance in using z-hop (0.2mm) but it changed nothing :(.
Im using Innofil3D PLA at 210°C and 50mm/s with a layer size of 0.08mm.
Do you have any ideas to get smooth surfaces without these retraction pillars?
UM2 Wlan-Upgrade?
in Deutsch
Posted
Ich würde wie zerspaner_gerd auch schon angedeutet zu Octorprint greifen da du hier ein paar richtig coole features erwarten darfst. Wenn du keine Lust auf eine manuelle Installation hat, kannst du mal nach OctoPi suchen. Das ist ein fertiges image für den Pi. Du musst dann auf deinem Rechner lediglich eine Datei auf der SD-Karte des Raspis editieren in der du WLAN Name und Passwort eingibst. Auf diesem Wege hast du dann auch sämtliche software für Webcam etc. direkt mit eingerichtet.
Einziger Nachteil (und Vorteil zu gleich): Du kannst nicht mehr den UltiGcode verwenden denn das geht nur über die SD-Karte. Du musst Cura (oder welchen slicer auch immer) auf reinen Marlin Ccode umstellen. Das heißt solche Sachen wie retractions oder die Temperatur werden auch vom slicer verwaltet und nicht vom Drucker selbstständig durchgeführt.