darkglove

Thanks again @calinb That is a shame about your howtos, to be honest until now I've been perfectly happy with the quality of prints so have been in the "if it aint broke, don't try and fix it" world, so if I can still get nozzles to fit then I will probably end up leaving it as is for another few years until it's completey obsolete. I did see someone say that the E3D nozzles fit so I blindly ordered one and the one that arrived was a nozzle for ants. Is it the cyclops that are compatible?

Thankyou @calinb I love to tinker but my issue here is with the time I currently have to tinker on this. I'm in the middle of developing something and needed to do a load of test prints (so this is obviously when it gave up) so I think I'm going to have to just get those 4 replacement nozzles, keeping in mind that I need to devote some time to upgrade and tinker with it if I want it to carry on being as good as it was out of the box. I've been very lucky in the fact that I've lasted this long on my first nozzle! Have you documented all the changes you have made? Would like to see some photos of the mods you have mentioned.

Thank you for responding I seem to be stuck between a rock and a hard place atm. I can only find one place that sells the original nozzles (but I have to buy 4) or I have to buy the whole hot end kit. Neither of which I want to do as it seems I need to upgrade it now to future proof it before it becomes useless. Nor do I want to shell out for a nozzle that may or may not fit and print. All upgrades I've seen involve printing parts which at the moment I can't do... Maybe I should bite the bullet and order 4 of those nozzles and sell 3 of them on ebay or something, and print the parts I need to upgrade. I had no idea that this printer had slipped into the world where I can't easily get replacement parts, especially as they still seem available to buy (and not cheap)

bump?

Ah, does it mean the base of the nozzel shouldn't be flush with the block and that the 2 threaded parts should be tightened to meet each other inside the block to create a seal?

OK, so looking at the Olsson Ruby 2.85mm / 0.4mm compatibility list it says it's compatible with Ultimaker Original+ *1 *2 *1 = You will need to adjust the fan shroud since the nozzle is shorter than the original nozzle. *2 = You will need to mount it with the nozzle not placed against the front face of the heater block but against the heat break/isolator tube to create a seal. 1, I presume is as simple as printing this fan shorud or just chopping bits off of my one but I'm not sure what 2 means. Anyone done this?

I have an UMO+ that I have had for 4/5 years now and I think my nozzle has finally had it after printing a load of Carbonfill. So over the last half a decade there seems to be a lot of changes so I'm hoping that someone can give me an idea of my best option. I wanted to get a hardened steel nozzle but it seems that they don't make them for the UMO+? So how much of the hot end do I need to swap out to use more up to date nozzles? I can't actually tell if the replacement hot end kits I've seen are just a replacement that puts me back where I started or will allow me to use different nozzles. Any advice appreciated.

Thanks Where did you get your board from in the end? Looks like the Ultimaker Original+ that I have uses the Ultimaker 2 board too

And other days things don't. I realise I'm having a conversation with myself here but maybe it will help others and possibly me again in the future. So it seems that my extruder port is also dead. The motor is fine if I move it to another port but now I have 2 dead ports and only 1 spare so I now also have 2 faulty boards! FML

Perfect! Thanks for your help.

Can someone help me understand the pin outs in the pins.h file? (Marlin) They don't seem to match up. I'm pretty sure I am looking at the correct section of the file (* Ultiboard v2.0 pin assignment) as I have swapped my Z axis port to the E2 port (E1 in the file) and it worked. But the pin numbers on the base of my board (from and Ultimaker Original+) don't match. For example, in the pins.h file #define X_STEP_PIN 25 #define X_DIR_PIN 23 #define X_STOP_PIN 22 #define X_ENABLE_PIN 27 but printed on the board they are pins TP46 - TP49 What am I missing?

Yes I can and I did.

Some days things just work out. So if anyone is actually interested, I moved the Z control over to the E2 port. Managed to work out what I did so many years back and did the same for this port. Brief summary Used a Marlin version of the firmware Swapped pins in pins.h //Original /* #define Z_STEP_PIN35 #define Z_DIR_PIN 36 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 34 */ //New #define Z_STEP_PIN 49 #define Z_DIR_PIN 47 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 48 //Original /* #define E1_STEP_PIN 49 #define E1_DIR_PIN 47 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 48 */ //New #define E1_STEP_PIN 35 #define E1_DIR_PIN 36 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 34 Compiled and it failed because of an old bug / typo where "fpos_t" should have been "filepos_t" Just did a search and replace for all, compile, find more in other dependent files, repeat until it compiled OK. Uploaded, worked!

Gave up a while back but I really want to get this up and running again. My PC running Windows 10 can see the board, it shows up as Arduino Mega 2560 under com ports Cura just doesn't see it at all. Now rocking version 4.0.0 Can I upgrade the firmware via the Arduino IDE? Every search I have tried brings me back to the "use Cura" instructions.

I can connect using Arduino IDE fine but not Cura... 😕

A little back story. Three and a half years ago, I received my Ultimamer Original+ and the motherboard had a dead E1 port, thanks to the support from people in this thread I managed to get a version of the firmware to move over to E2 and all was well. I received a replacement board from Ultimaker which I never actually swapped over as I had just got the damaged one working. Fast forward to today and I have a weird issue with the Y axis taking leaps every now and then and it's not due to slipping. As some have mentioned it could be a board issue, I've decided to install that replacement board. The Z port is dead! WTF, were these boards known for being flakey? I've moved my Z motor over to the X port and an autohome moves the motor fine so I'm pretty sure we are talking about another dead port. So, now I find myself in the past and trying to edit the firmware but this time to move the control of the Z port to the E2 port. I imagine this too is possible but it might be more editing of the config than before due to different set functionality of the port. If anyone has any comments, suggestions or has done this before then please let me know. I'm not sure if I should start off editing the same file as before from here (although this has been updated also) or to look at a new version of firmware to edit. I've not updated the firmware in the last few years as if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it and also I would have had to edit it every time. TL;DR Ultimaker Original+ Z port dead on motherboard, want to edit firmware to move it to E2.

Can you actually do this? I've had this unit for a few years now and can't remember if I ever connected over USB, but right now I can't I just so happen to have a spare motherboard so have tried this with 2 motherboards, 2 USB cables, 2 PCs (both Windows 10) and 2 versions of Cura (3.5 and 3.6) The boards show up in Device manager, I've deleted the driver and pointed to the Cura folder and it finds a driver but Cura never sees the printer. I actually only want to do a firmware update so could go another route if it is possible? but why can't I connect to them?!

@neo-ninja Did you resolve this? I seem to have the same issue. Thanks

Thanks, that's what I have been but they always seem to spanner just as I leave the room! Got some fantastic prints now using HD Glass... Not sure I need to go down the Nylon route for now.

Yep, a temp drop really nailed the HD Glass print. I think I'm starting to get a better understanding of how the temperature effects the print. Will look at that when I next do a Nylon print too. I'll add to this post when I do. Thanks

I've dropped the material for now. Worryingly I decided to try something else (I got some samples) but it's done something similar... HD Glass with the temp down to 218. Again, it starts off fine but around the same height as my first Nylon prints it's become a dribble twister!

Thanks for replies. I'm using Nylon 6 NYL-BLA 3mm Maybe I should get some bridge as although I don't mind experimenting to get good results, I'm getting bored of printing failed test prints... Sounds like I deffinitely do need to dry it out as it's been out of the packet and on my spool for a few days. I'm not actually getting a lot of popping though, one or two here and there but not a lot at all. The reason I went with turning the fan on was that it just wasn't setting, could that be a moisture thing? I have managed to get better prints by slowing the print down and increasing the extrusion amount (just a little) but I feel I am putting a sticky plaster on a broken leg. My best effort so far of printing a vertical cylinder! Fail

Hi, Still a noob. I recently got a sample of Nylon to try out. I've been printing with PLA no problems but the Mrs hates the smell. I found a few settings that people have used for Nylon and none of them seem to give me a good result. Everyone seems to recommend turning the fan off but I've found that if the fan is off then my print ends up being a bubbling molten mess. If I turn the fan on then it starts to print perfectly until it gets to about 8mm high (I'm just printing a test vertical cylinder) and then it seems to just stop extruding. So if the print is fine for, approx 10 mins, what could cause the element to stop? Is it under-extruding a small amount and it's gradually getting to the point where it runs out? Or under-extruding so the heat gradually works it's way upwards creating too much gunk in the head? My rubberduck debugging seems to be leading me to under-extrusion.....

I had a little success with this today. I used the J22 connectors to connect a 232 cable to my processor (Crestron) I had to edit Configuration.h slightly #define SERIAL_PORT 2 \\was #define SERIAL_PORT 0 and #define BAUDRATE 115200 \\was #define BAUDRATE 250000 I only had to change the baud rate as my processor doesn't support 250000 When I power up the board I get a reasuring barrage of start up data... start echo:Marlin1.0.0 echo: Last Updated: Oct 20 2015 17:12:59 | Author: (David Braam) Compiled: Oct 20 2015 echo: Free Memory: 3840 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z200.00 E836.00 echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z30.00 E25.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000 echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration echo: M204 S4000.00 T3000.00 echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s) echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00 echo:Home offset (mm): echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 echo:PID settings: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 Using tool 0. echo:SD card ok This tells me that I am definitely connected, the tx and rx are the right way round and the baud rates match on both devices. Once this happens I then get echo:Unknown command: "" every few seconds. It seems like it is monitoring for commands and if it gets nothing then it gets upset. I'm not too bothered about that yet, what I really need to work out is why it doesn't respond when I do send commands. I'm also not sure yet what commands I can send to get information I need or to control the printer. (have tried some G and M codes but none of them seem to work) I think I may have to enable serial 2 to accept and handle control commands somehow... But serial communication is a good start.

Did anyone have any joy with this?