[Very frustrated with Ultimaker 2+ layer issues]

Just now, geert_2 said:

If it happens mainly with the 0.8mm nozzles, a factor could be temperature: it requires 4x more heat to melt enough plastic in the same time for a 0.8mm nozzle than for a 0.4mm nozzle (twice the diameter = 4x the surface). So you might want to reduce speed and/or increase temp. Try adjusting these on the fly on a test piece, and watch what happens.

 

 

I will test that. With the last print however you are able to see that the print started well in-between had massive under extrusion and then finished well.

 

I would expect a no print at all or well print which is why I started to think that this must be a feeder issue

[Very frustrated with Ultimaker 2+ layer issues]

It seems to me this was really more a feeder issue not nozzle or print plate.

I have 2 0.8 nozzels (actually 2 complete nozzle sets) and the issue happens mainly with 0.8, less with 0.6 and hardly at all with 0.4

 

I changed the tension and it seems to have helped.

 

I will do another big print today.

[Very frustrated with Ultimaker 2+ layer issues]

Maybe I should not have praised the day before watching the even TV scheduke

 

totally inacceptable layer gabs

[Very frustrated with Ultimaker 2+ layer issues]

All I did was to adjust the feeder tension and this seems to have helped

 

[Very frustrated with Ultimaker 2+ layer issues]

I did a test cube print and it failed too

 

So I took off the print bed and washed it both sides and put it pack and the test cube print worked again instantly

 

Then i removed the parts to print the main design a s again this failure

 

this is just bonkers

 

Printing the test cube again works

 

[Very frustrated with Ultimaker 2+ layer issues]

After this crap print

 

I calibrated the print bed again with the build in function and then with some test prints to check corners.

I had one 98% good print that showed only at two layers issues - which however is already not good

 

and all following prints are horrible again. Below are two print attempts of the same mode ...

 

@gr5 I am not sure if you could maybe point me towards a solution.

 

Can the PLA be old or the print glass surface have issues?

[Very frustrated with Ultimaker 2+ layer issues]

Ultimaker 2+.  PLA    Using glue stick recently

 

I cleaned calibrated the printer but printing with it is a hit or miss

there is always the issue of under extrusion

 

sometimes this happens already on the glass surface 

sometimes and mainly this append in the part

 

the printer was not used that much and worked perfectly before - was not used for over a year and a half 

attached are some images to show the issue

 

i had the feeling this might be a feeder issue but mainly the test extrusion of material before printing looks amount wise fine

and also based on the nozzle and layer setting I get different results.

 

any help from Ultimaker would be highly appreciated 

 

 

 

 

[z-seam alignment and bloobs]

The print issue remains no matter what cura version or print speed.

[z-seam alignment and bloobs]

So I did two things:

 

I used the old Cura 15 and in the current Cura I set all printing values to 30.

However the print result is the same.

 

At the Lulzbot forum the staff mentioned to me that the start end line I see is just the way how it is with their MOARstruder and I think this might be the same with the Ultimaker 2+ and the 0.8 nozzle.

 

I have a pencil holder (cone shape) I printed with the Ultimaker but I dont recall the nozzle size but it was not the 0.8 nozzle. The print is flawless.

[How to prevent those surface dimples]

18 minutes ago, gr5 said:

Definitely try cura 15.4.  I still use it sometimes for my UM2.  A very nice slicer.

 

When using an older Cura version do you also have to flash the older firmware?

[z-seam alignment and bloobs]

20 hours ago, gr5 said:

But the solution isn't to lower the acceleration - the solution is to increase the acceleration so it doesn't pause so long on the corners.  But the printer can only go so fast before it loses steps.

 

Ok now I am lost hahah

 

Print slower and solution is increase acceleration?

[How to prevent those surface dimples]

8 hours ago, gr5 said:

Wait - layers should not start on an outer layer, right?  Maybe that's where the outer shell starts and ends?

 

I think it always starts inside, then the inner wall then prints the outer wall.

 

 used the ultimaker 2+ 2 years ago and I swear I never saw those issues.

[How to prevent those surface dimples]

0.8 nozzle 0.4 line width (I think)

 

randome z alignment

 

notice the dimples where a new layer starts ! How can that be filled / fixed ?

 

 

 

 

[What causes this noodle print issue?]

0.8 nozzle

 

i have very good result when using 0.4 line width but with 0.6 line width I often get those noodle sculptures 

 

interestingly the base layers often are fine 

 

 

[Confused with wall thickness nozzle size and amount of wall passes]

3 hours ago, gr5 said:

@cekuhnen   Too many line segments would be bad as Marlin doesn't like to print line segments much shorter than .2mm (a whole different discussion).

 

Thank you for all those additional side details !

[z-seam alignment and bloobs]

3 hours ago, gr5 said:

I don't really get much of a z seam on my parts probably because I tend to print slow - usually 35mm/sec.

The problem happens anytime you have to speed up or slow down the extruder.

 

I am sorry for asking this basic question but when setting a lower print speed does this then also influence the extrusion speed?

 

Based on what you said it reads like slower speed = printer(extruder) has more time to react == less over/under extrusion issues.

[Confused with wall thickness nozzle size and amount of wall passes]

1 hour ago, Ricky said:

@mastory

In 3.31 source code, the starting point of each layer is a mess. The z-seam setting determine this. If you are interested in discussing the starting point of path planning, I will open a separate thread. Just let me know.

 

Interesting point! I started a new thread here because I encounter some very very unpleasant seam issues

 

 

[z-seam alignment and bloobs]

Hi all

 

I own a Taz 6 (with MOARstruder) and UM2+ and noticed first with the MOARstruder but now also with the UM2+ a clearly visible vertical seam.

I find this quite interesting considering that both also use CURA.

 

 

From left to right:

 

0.8 nozzle default layer height - 0.8 nozzle 0.6 layer height - MOARstruder 1.2 nozzle 0.9 layer height

 

Does somebody know why this happens?

With the TAZ MOARstruder I noticed that new lines sometimes start somewhat thin while I assumed start and end line width would be the same and touch each other.

 

 

[Confused with wall thickness nozzle size and amount of wall passes]

11 hours ago, gr5 said:

In your case where your part is 2.4mm thick there is some small amount of floating point error.  Try 0.79mm for the line width and it should work better.

 

Thank you for this. This indeed removes that extra green track - but interestingly Cura remains moving the print head.

here is a screen recording

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SbJ_Wu3K8wWGZZsOqZVbGa7SKJUAH73o/view?usp=sharing

 

 

 

Now on a secondary question when the nozzle is 0.8 but a 0.8 line width creates a lot of interesting GCode

 

would it then not better to shell a design with the line width value than the nozzle value?

But when doing this I get a similarly interesting effect:

CAD model 2.1mm shell  and  0.7mm line width 

[Confused with wall thickness nozzle size and amount of wall passes]

UM 2+ printer

2.4 MM shell CAD file

0.8 mm Nozzle

I see that each print in Cura is 0.7 mm - why not 0.8 mm since that is the nozzle width ?

 

I see in the print preview that cura

1. prints the inner wall

2. then adds on odd extra thin wall

3. prints the outside wall

4. prints the inside wall

 

 

When setting the line width to 0.8 the inner wall gets choppy and some yellow tracks show up ?!

 

Could someone explain what is happening here and why

 

 

 

[what settings for 0.8 nozzle, 0.4 to 0.6 mm layer height PLA and UM2+]

do you have to adjust the temp too or is that pre defined by the material PLA Ultimaker?

I was not able to find anything to set the temp to 230 C.

 

 

 

Also I know it is big ?. This is for rough prototyping only

 

i have the moarstruder for a taz 6 and the s-Erde for inclass rough prototyping is great

 

we have 4 um2+ in my class room so we might consider to use the 0.8 mainly now

since often model studies is what students print

 

we have one um3 for finer prints

[UM 2+ Cura 3.31 Missing profiles]

You suggest to use 0.8. Nozzle but 0.4 profile?

[UM 2+ Cura 3.31 Missing profiles]

Hi all,

 

I just installed Cura and noticed that for many of my nozzles of the Olson block the profiles are missing

 

For example below with the 0.8 nozzle only 0.15 layer height profile is present.

Is that normal?

Cura for Lulzbot has basically for each printhead multiple profiles (layer thickness) to choose from.

 

[what settings for 0.8 nozzle, 0.4 to 0.6 mm layer height PLA and UM2+]

Hi all

 

I have an ultimaker 2+ and recently also bought a Lulzbot Taz 6 with the MOARstruder and was curious to see how far the Ultimaker 2+ 0.8 nozzle could be pushed.

I am not expert at 3D printing or adjusting these settings so excuse me for asking here.

 

PLA Material (Ultimaker)

UM 2+

0.8 mm nozzle

0.4 - 0.6mm layer height or max

 

As far as I know speed temp has to be fined tuned right?

[Brand new Ultimaker 2+ dead during Cura firmware update]

This is what happened:

MacPro 2008

MacOS 10.11.6

Cura 2.1.2

Attached UM2+ to MacPro via USB

Started Cura

During Cura starting the Ultimaker power / lights went on off

Out of curiosity I thought about checking the firmware update

and selected update

Cura lights/power went on off few times

After minutes of waiting and no progress bar in Cura firmware update I noticed that

the Ultimaker 2+ is dead

This is some joke ? Did this fry the UM2+ for real?