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tasopoulos

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Everything posted by tasopoulos

  1. Version 1.0

    1,094 downloads

    Openforge dungeon
  2. Any interest? Feel free to make me a (reasonable) offer.
  3. Hello everyone. I have 5 Ultimaker filaments to sell, since I sold my printer and therefore won't be needing them anymore. They are: 1x CPE Black (with free extra coupler included) - SEALED 1x CPE Blue (with free extra coupler included) - SEALED 1x PLA Silver Metallic - SEALED 1x ABS Red - LESS THAN 3m USED 1x ABS White - LESS THAN 1m USED Prices: CPE --> 40 EUR ABS/PLA --> 25 EUR Shipping to EU will be 10 EUR for one filament, you can combine and save on postage if you buy more (shipping is from Greece). Thanks for looking! Chris
  4. Γεια χαρά. Ξέρω ότι έχει καιρό που έκανες το ποστ, αλλά μπας και ενδιαφέρεσαι ακόμα για αγορά ενός μεταχειρισμένου Ultimaker 2 σε άριστη κατάσταση (ελάχιστα χρησιμοποιημένος) ή/και για περισσότερα από 20 filament της Colorfabb; Αν ναι, επικοινώνησε μαζί μου στο tasopoulos@gmail.com. Σ' ευχαριστώ. Χρήστος
  5. Maybe try the STL instead? https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=8EA4064156DCB145!16864&authkey=!AJ9swrGO7O26huk&ithint=file%2cstl
  6. This didn't work either, it just capped the lip completely: I guess maybe the error lies in that the lip itself is not capped around its perimeter? Is there someone who could fix the file manually for me?
  7. Hello all. I have this funnel model that I've been trying to slice, but I get a weird issue. The funnel is as pictured below (it has a slight lip on the inside, on the point where the cone and cylinder meet): And while it shows just fine when imported in Cura... ... it does't slice correctly (there is a gap where the lip should be, and a round part is shown in the middle): Could someone tell me how to fix this? I only have the file in .3ds format (https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=8EA4064156DCB145!16863&authkey=!AJJ57nA7-20esrY&ithint=file%2c3ds) and I converted it to .stl. Thanks in advance, guys and girls!
  8. Version 1.0

    1,575 downloads

    Modelled and 3D printed an Elevator-Testing Tower of the company I work for (Kleemann Greece) at 1:200 scale.
  9. Thank you once again, @Labern. Oh, and congrats on the 2nd place
  10. Thanks again @Labern. I started using the fans at 70% and it looks to be working fine so far (I will, of course, install the 35W heater as soon as it arrives). I don't think this is related to the aforementioned problem, but I also started noticing that my first layer looks like this (it looks like it's transparent on a specific portion of the bed): This is only on the first layer, all the other ones look ok: Any ideas?
  11. Thanks, already ordered one from @DidierKlein. But isn't it weird that the error message started appearing a couple of months after installing the Olsson block?
  12. The shroud is fine (I only print with PLA, so I don't get temps >210C). Both times that I got the error the print was at around the 20th-25th layer (fans at 100%).
  13. Hi all. I've been getting the Heater Error message on my UM2 lately as well. I had installed the Olsson block a couple of months ago, and I've had no problems whatsoever up until last week, when I got the Heater Error for the first time. I noticed that the temp sensor was loose inside the block (I pulled it from the back and it came right off), so I tightened the screw on the block and I thought my problem was solved. But the next day, after about an hour into the print, I got the dreaded Heater Error message again. This time the sensor was firmly fixed inside the block. I've been using izzy's shroud (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2) and the stock 25W heater. Help!
  14. Hi all. I've been getting the Heater Error message on my UM2 lately. I had installed the Olsson block a couple of months ago, and I've had no problems whatsoever up until last week, when I got the Heater Error for the first time. I noticed that the temp sensor was loose inside the block (I pulled it from the back and it came right off), so I tightened the screw on the block and I thought my problem was solved. But the next day, after about an hour into the print, I got the dreaded Heater Error message again. This time the sensor was firmly fixed inside the block. I've been using izzy's shroud (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2) and the stock 25W heater. I'm printing with PLA at 210C and using Cura 15.04.4.
  15. Thanks @meduza, I bought mine in October, so I doubt it's amongst the first 500 ones
  16. I don't know if this has been mentioned in another post (couldn't find it), but could someone tell me how much the maximum height of U2's print volume changes after you install the Olsson Block? I would imagine it goes from 205mm to something like 195-200mm? Thanks.
  17. Yours look indeed like retraction issues. I didn't have any of those, but I did have lines that do not touch each other, probably indicating that my bed was not levelled as close to the head as it should.
  18. No, small foot that broke from my keyboard (on the left the broken part, on the right the 3D printed one): Turned out quite nice (although, now that I look at it up close, my bed levelling was not right):
  19. Thanks, I will try that and let you know. Would you please tell me the suggested values for Minimum Distance, Retract Speed and Retract Distance as well? I'm trying to print a small replacement foot for my keyboard:
  20. @Dim3nsioneer I just started using the plugin myself. Regarding the layers count, do you mean that for a model with 55 layers, I should input 52 as starting layer no. and 54 as ending layer no. if I want the plugin on the last 3 layers? Also, could I use the plugin twice in the same model, and have the same settings for layers 0-2 as well? Thanks.
  21. Yep, saw that post after I had posted my reply... Maybe this will work: Preeeeeety pleeeeeeeease?
  22. @cloakfiend Could you please share some links on where to buy spray paints like the ones you've been using? Preferrably some place where they ship in Europe (me being in Greece and all). Thanks!
  23. @izzy I used Colorfabb's Pale Gold and Faberdashery's Traffic Red. I was aiming for an Ironman look, but the red turned more "pink-y" than I hoped.
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