tasopoulos

Here's what I mean:

Hi all. I've been running into the above mentioned problem by the thread starter myself lately: when I'm printing a small Marvin robot with a specific filament (Ultimaker yellow PLA), the print always stops at the same spot (about 20% into the model), and the head just keeps moving normally, without extruding plastic. I've had the same behaviour in 3-4 tries. When I print the same model (with the same gcode) with any other filament, it prints just fine. What could be the problem that causes this exact filament to stop extruding? I've noticed this behaviour (extrusion stops but head keeps moving) in other prints as well, but I couldn't verify if it was a recurring thing or not.

Thanks for the quick reply, dude. I have the olsson block installed, and have printed the ducts with PLA (printed the ones without the notches). From your image, I would say mine hang down about a mm more (I am at work now, so cannot upload a photo). A version with 1-2 mm reduced height would be greatly appreciated (or I could just print these ones, "sunk" 1-2 mm into the cura table)?

@izzy I printed your ducts and everything is working like a charm!! One question: the ductssit much lower than the original ones (their exits are almost on the same level with the nozzle, almost touching the print). Is that ok? I am afraid in time (maybe after some use), they will drop down slightly and scratch the print or something.

@DidierKlein You got any tips for me?

Had my first attempt with Colorfabb's Woodfill today, and it didn't turn out exactly as I hoped for: As you can see, there was A LOT of retraction, and the outer shell was printed very badly (you can see this better in the image below, which was taken after I had cleaned the model a bit): What would you guys recommend to fix both issues? Cura settings were exactly the ones that colorfabb suggests at http://learn.colorfabb.com (layerheight 0.27, speed 50, temperature 205 - I tried lowering it down to 180 but nothing changed, retraction speed 40, retraction distance 5.5). It was printed with a 1.0mm nozzle and from observing the print, the problems started right where the main branch split in 3, and so the head had to retract a lot and constantly move from one island to the other. The situation got even worse when those 3 islands starting multiplying. Thanks in advance guys.

Help! I have some material of Ultimaker's Yellow PLA stuck inside the bowden tube, that it cannot come out! The material must have melted, and then it cooled inside the tube and now it's impossible to take it out. I've tried inserting filament from one side and pushing it as hard as possible, putting it under hot water hoping that it would soften a bit, but it is quite stuck. Can anyone advise me on how to take it out? Thanks in advance. Chris

I thought that if I would be buying this, I'd much rather get it from the creator's hub, but I guess shipping from NZ to Greece would be quite expensive @Labern, right?

Hello all (another newbie here). Just finished installing my Olsson block, and everything looks great so far (although the process turned out to be much harder than I though quite a but to adjust everything without touching). Now, even though my prints look good, there is excessive noise coming from the head, which is definitely coming from the fans (when I turn fan speed down to 0% during printing, that "grinding" noise goes away). I guess I bent the shroud a bit too much, even though I don't see a visual issue (the metal is not touching anything and the cables all look to be in order). In any case, after reading a lot of the threads and posts in the community, I think I should probably get a better fan shroud, like @Labern's or something else. Thing is, I am printing only with PLA (for now at least) and so was wondering if one of you guys could print me one in XT (I will, of course, be paying for it). Thanks a lot in advance! Chris

Just started using RS Designspark Mechanical myself, and it really couldn't be easier! Excellent for beginning with parametric modelling.

Wow, excellent designs, dude!

Looking great!

I tried Acetone smoothing, and while it helps with the shining of the model (and very slightly with the smoothing of the bottom), it's still far from perfect. I've also thought about splitting the part in 2, but I'm afraid the seam will look bad in the end. But it definitely doesn't hurt to try.

Even a sale on filaments would be fine by me

Help! I've been trying to print a bracelet, like the one you see in the photo below: This item can only printed this way (practically on air) because it doesn't feature any flat surface to lay on. After removing the supports, the bottom side of the letters is very rough and no sanding can improve it. On the left is the result after removing Cura's supports and on the right the result with using Meshmixer supports: Meshmixer looks slightly less rough, but still doesn't look good enough for jewelry. Any ideas on how to make the bottom parts of the bracelet as smooth as the top ones? Thanks in advance!

That is indeed some very good advice, thanks @Labern! I'll try all that (hopefully) and let you know how it went...

Yep, I know that a resin printer would probably do a much better job, but unfortunately I don't have one Could someone give me some more info on this blowtorch method? How would I protect my model from melting in places it shouldn't?

Hello all! Just got my Ultimaker 2 a month ago, and I'm still in the "experimentation" phase. Question: how can I correct the stringing issue you can see in the picture? This was printed with the default Cura settings, but since then I also tried printing it with less speed and/or lower nozzle temperature, but no luck. Thanks in advance for your suggestions! Chris