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wishbone

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About wishbone

  • Birthday 02/25/1981

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
    SG
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. Okay thanks everyone for the advice. It seems the following changes seemed to have solved the problem for me: 1) Getting the nozzle as close as possible to the bed 2) Setting the Extruder temp to 215 Also my prints still easily pop off once the bed has cooled down so no problem getting them. Thanks again Adam
  2. Hi SandervG I am still using a 0.40mm nozzle, so no change there. Since the upgrade I pretty much always use a glue stick applied to the glass bed before i print. And any big print like the one in the photo i always clean the glass with some dishwasher soap, let it dry and then add the glue stick. The settings i use, both before and after: Material : PLA Layer Height :0.25mm T Build Platform : 60 T Extruder : 205 Cooling: Layer 0 - Fan Speed Cooling: Layer 2 - 100 Fan Speed. Print Speed : 2500mm/min I have tried increasing build platform T, but this did not work. I tried lower the fan speed for the first few layers as i thought with the new fan ducts on the upgrade kit it might be cooling too fast, but this did not work. I calibrate the Nozzle height using the calibration card that came with the upgrade kit, and now since the upgrade i always use a glue stick. I will try increasing the Extruder temperature to 215 and brave up and get my nozzle to touch the build platform when calibrating and see how it goes. neotko - I always try to make sure my build platform is always clean before a big print like the one in the photo so i don't think there is any grease on the glass. Thanks for all the advice, ill give it try and let you. And nice video gr5.
  3. Hi, I have had this exact same problem. Since I upgraded my UM2 to a UM2+ I have had really bad adhesion with PLA since the upgrade. Before I had sweet adhesion, i never had to use any glue or rafts, now after the upgrade i pretty much have to use glue and rafts all the time, and sometimes that still doesn't work. I have tried making the bed hotter and playing with temperatures and speeds but nothing seems to improve it. The side on view shows the bottom face is all wobbly where it has started pulling away. [/media]
  4. Wow, pretty cool you can print the M3 Not being funny these are standard parts for a reason. Surely its easier (and cheaper) just to buy some?
  5. Since upgrading to the new UM2+ upgrade kit i have noticed my printer seems to print rads at the base of the model really badly. See below, the brown print is before i upgraded, and the green after. Okay i know the materials are different but they are both the same standard pla, just different colours, and this has been happening on all my prints since upgrading. The settings are both the same between the green and brown. I also noticed my prints seem to curl up a load more at the edges of the early layers, before the upgrade the adhesion was really good, now not so. Layer Height: 0.15 Speed : 2500 mm/min Nozzle temp : 200 deg C Bed Temp :60 deg C Any ideas? I am wondering if the better fans/ducts are making it too cold at the edges and making it curl up and spoil that part of the print. Adam
  6. I just installed the UM2 upgrade kit and ...... I just wanted to say i think you need to add something in the tutorial video for the UM2 Upgrade Kit Video about making sure the X shafts are positioned properly in their axial direction. I had my X shaft clipped in properly in the plastic lugs, and it looked good, but I didn't realise it had to protrude out on the left hand side so it hits the limit switch when the print head homes - consequently when the print head tried to home the limit switch wasn't pressed and it tried to smash through the back of the machine. Its pretty hard to see the limit switch as its covered by the top of the frame, and there is no mention of this in the video.
  7. How does the print compare? Was the nozzle dia all you changed?
  8. Yes I have been trying to print with this stuff as well. The bamboo fill. Its a total nightmare, worst clogging I have ever experienced, black stuff spewing out everywhere. Ill have to get myself an Olsson block and try a bigger nozzle.
  9. Anyone had any experience using the ones you can buy on aliexpress? Seem a lot cheaper.... https://www.aliexpress.com/cheap/cheap-ultimaker-2-ptfe-coupler.html
  10. Hi All, I recently started trying to print with Colorfabb Olive, but it came out pretty bad. The filament grinded to a stop ~80% of the way through, which okay this sometimes happens, but the really weird thing is the part quality is terrible. It literally tore the part apart just trying to get it off the build platform, it looks like the layers have barely bonded together. Any ideas why this might happen? Print settings: PLA - 210 C Nozzle Temp, 60C Build plate Layer Height : 0.25mm Print Speed : 2500 mm/min Material Flow : 130% (modified on machine - i wanted part to be watertight.)
  11. sandervg, thanks i also updated my profile a bit , I'm using an UM2. Yes, i meant in terms of filament.....seems strange why there is no PP available as the glass trans temp is lower than ABS. If we can get PP in filament then i think TPE should be possible then they should bond together well. Either way there is actually a lot of info out there about bonding of different plastics to rubbers, just google "overmolding rubber to abs/pp/etc...." most companies give you a nice chart. Could be something worth looking at for developing new materials for UM. foehnstrum - maybe try and make the mechanical bond work in 2 planes to get a really solid interlock. The parts in your photo have the mech bond in 1 plane, if you can model it so it works in 2 planes then it will be fully interlocked. Its nice because the rubber can start acting as the support material for the PLA within the interlocks you form.
  12. The toothbrushes use PP over moulded with TPE which are very chemically similar so they bond together well (PP is technically a rubber, just with a high shore hardness), so one way is to find materials that are chemically similar. I've always wondered why they don't make PP reels for the FDM's....anyone know? The other way as above is to create a mechanical bond as shown above in the paint image, this kind of approach is used a lot in industry, over moulding rubber onto moulded plastic. This subject is really interesting and gets more so i think when you start looking at conductive filaments so we can embed electronics into the print, whilst having them naturally insulated by the exterior plastic. foehnstrum - i couldn't make out which machine you are using... are you using an UM or BCN3D?
  13. I bought my UM2 a few months back with a whole bunch of different UM filaments and colours. So far has been great with a few grinding problems here and there but no show stoppers........apart from the Silver Metallic filament!! I literally cannot get this reel to print at all, (everything else was fine; pink, green, white, clear....), every time I use this filament the feeder just eats into it and grinds it away. I have tried different settings on the screw on the feeder but this makes no difference. Was there a batch problem or do I need to adjust something on the settings? (numbers on the reel are : 8718836370687 UM7021-1168-2546)
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