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DaHai8

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Everything posted by DaHai8

  1. First off, you model is AWESOME. Yeah, everything is flat, straight, level, etc. very nice! Ok, here's some clues (Cura 2.5) I was getting the same behavior as you with .1 Layer Height and .15 Initial Layer Height. This causes the top layers to not be perfect layer increments: .15, .25, .35, .45 ... So you can see that when it gets to the first inner top later at 10mm, its going to be either 9.95 or 10.05mm. Looks like Cura has a rounding issue and depending on where on the build plate it sits, it may do some areas in 9.95 and others in 10.05 So I'm guessing your Initial Layer Height is probably something like .25 So to mitigate this, set you Initial Layer Height and Layer Height values so they will land exactly on the top layers of your part: ie: 10mm and 30mm. I would recommend .2mm for both Initial Layer Height and Layer Height. It might make bed adhesion a little more difficult, but your top layers will be flat.
  2. Its a Windows Update issue. Here are some links with more info: https://helpx.adobe.com/creative-cloud/kb/error_on_launch.html https://support.tidal.com/hc/en-us/articles/206881749-The-program-can-t-start-because-api-ms-win-crt-runtime-l1-1-0-dll-is-missing
  3. You are saying that models downloaded from Thingiverse all print fine - regardless of size, but...models you create won't print larger? If so, sounds like an issue with your model. Have you looked at in X-Ray mode for any Red areas? Did you run it through MakePrintable on Thingiverse to see if it threw up any errors?
  4. I don't know what that value is, but you can adjust the overlap with the Material -> Flow percentage. The distance between is set with the Quality -> Line Width.
  5. Check the X-Ray view for any RED areas, they would indicate issues with the model that can confuse Cura when slicing it. I've seen this happen when the layer is not perfectly flat and parallel to the build plate. Even a difference of .1mm in height can cause the slicer to print that 'bump'. Any way you could post the STL, or original model for examination?
  6. Try printing from SD Card to isolate if this is a USB communications problem, or something else. Also check the Layers view in Cura just to be sure there's no command to move the head, drip, print, move back and drip more
  7. It actually takes 65 hours or estimated at 65 hours?
  8. Some suggestions: 1) Check your belts for proper tension and the print head for slop. 2) Enable Acceleration and Jerk Control in Cura and try lower values for the corresponding settings (Top/Bottom). Note that the defaults in Cura may be much higher than your Delta as they are defaulted for Ultimaker printers. So you may have to adjust all of them. 3) Try printing hotter +5-10c as it may be the filament is sticking to the nozzle and getting pulled away from the walls. 4) Skin Overlap Percentage: try increasing this value 5) Disable Infill Before Walls: This might help the infill adhere and stay in place if its getting pulled away. How may top layers are you printing? And what is your infill percentage?
  9. First thing I'd try is running the stl file through a service like MakePrintable to see if it throws up any errors and try to correct them.
  10. Get the STL Import & Export extension from the Sketchup Extension Warehouse.
  11. The file might be in ascii instead of binary. Cura can read both. Try converting it to a binary STL file, if NetFabb has that option, and then try loading it again. That will make the file itself much smaller (if its a file size issues and not a polygon issue).
  12. Those are moral support towers (Sorry, I could not resist)
  13. Nope, you've got it exactly right on how to set z-seam locations. However, the center of the board is not XY(0,0) (unless you have a Delta Machine. The lower left corner is 0,0 and the center of the board is X125, Y100 in your example. The confusion is Local Coordinates v. Printer Coordinates. Your object sits in the center of the board, which is locally (0,0), however, the Printer Coordinates put it at (125,100) Hope this helps.
  14. Try running the .stl through MakePrintable or some other 3D Print Mesh repair site/application. Those type of issues are usually caused by an invalid Mesh (not a closed Manifold) which confuses Cura, and other slicers, as to what's the 'inside' and 'outside' of an object.
  15. This blog talks about a few available options to do that: How to Convert G-Code Back into STL
  16. 32Bit Windows or 64bit Windows? 32Bit Cura (pre 2.4) or 64 bit Cura? Cura 2.x or Cura 15.x? They all go in different folders depending on the name, version, OS bit level and program bit level. For 64bit Cura on Windows 64bit OS its: . C:\Program Files\Cura 2.5\Cura.exe C:\Program Files\Cura 2.4\Cura.exe ... For legacy 32bit versions of Cura 2.3 and earlier on 64bit Windows its: . C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura 2.3\Cura.exe C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura 2.2\Cura.exe ... For Cura 15.x, its called Cura.bat as it executes a Python script to run: . C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.04.4\Cura.bat Hope this helps.
  17. Cura reads .obj files as well. Did you try the original .obj file? It could be a invalid manifold, or the walls may be too thin to print. Can you provide a link to the download for others to look at?
  18. I think he's wanting just the first and last layer to be Concentric, not all the top/bottom layers: 1: Concentric 2: Lines 3: Lines 4: Infill 5: Infill 6: Lines 7: Lines 8: Concentric Because concentric looks like but provides less strength than Lines.
  19. If it is Ethernet or Wifi connected? If its WiFi, you could do a test to see the signal strength and quality at the printer. Wifi Analyzer for Android works pretty good for this. It will show you the signal strength in dB and if there are overlapping Wifi signals that might be interfering. There might be a similar app for iOS. Just a thought.
  20. Check out the official Marlin documentation: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/MarlinDocumentation For documentation on the configuration files can be found here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/MarlinDocumentation/blob/master/_configuration/configuration.md And, finally, regarding your specific questions, look here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/MarlinDocumentation/blob/master/_configuration/configuration.md#default-steps-per-mm-- Hope this helps.
  21. Probably: Preferences -> General -> Opening and Saving Large Models -> Scale Large Models
  22. Here's your plugin. Place it in the C:\Program Files (x86)\Cura_15.nn.n\plugins folder and restart Cura: #Name: NozzleB #Info: Replace Extruder 'E' designator with 'B' #Depend: GCode #Type: postprocess __copyright__ = "Written by Da Hai Zhu - No copyright. Use as you wish. Caveat Emptor" import re from Cura.util import profile # Read the ENTIRE g-code file into memory with open(filename, "r") as f: lines = f.readlines() with open(filename, "w") as f: for lIndex in xrange(len(lines)): line = lines[lIndex] if ("G0" in line or "G1" in line) and ("E" in line) : line = re.sub("E","B",line) f.write(line+'\r\n') Python is persnickety, so if you have problems with this running via copy/paste from this screen, download it here: http://bitman.org/dahai/NozzleB.zip Let me know how it goes!
  23. I'm looking at some of the version 15.x plugins. They look pretty straightforward. Give me 24hrs and I should have something for your to try...
  24. I have spiralized multiple regions. It does work. But you are right, flat tops don't come out well.
  25. Try "Spiralize the Outer Contour" Expert -> Open Expert Settings -> Black Magic -> Spiralize the Outer Contour You'll probably want to set your Shell Thickness equal to your Nozzle Size...
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