WiseOldOwl

FYI - It's been a while. Update on 'power surge' - seems I had 'blip fans' set to on in S3D...That was all it was :)

Thanks I'll take a look @ the gcode and see.

More information... I started a new print this morning and when the 'brown out' happens, the fan icon on the display disappears momentarily, then comes back on, off, on again and remains steadily on until the next 'surge event' happens. I've been running TinkerGnome's firmware for years with no problems...don't think that has anything to do with this issue.

Hey guys - I'm hoping someone can shed some light on an issue I'm having. The power seems to surge randomly during a print. The MeanWell 24v PS doesn't seem warmer than normal and I haven't clamped and tested voltage at all - just observation. I don't remember...are the fans on the head (hot end & print fans) 12 or 24v? Here's a video of the problem: Does anyone have any tips for diagnosis or is this a somewhat known issue that happens over time? Any help is appreciated! Thank you!

@yyh1002 Yeah pretty sweet...Just waiting on a few more parts and I'm joining the Mark2 club Nice job on the mods. I just downloaded them for when I'm ready. Thanks!!!

I'm playing the waiting game on parts...I want to use the same style feeder as the UM2+, so there's one on the slow boat from China via Ebay coming at some point this month. We'll see! I have a bulldog feeder laying around but it's huge compared to the stock UM2+ geared one. Once it arrives I think I have to make it into a left (or is that right?) configuration for the 2nd head. Thanks to GR5 for the Mark2 upgrade goodies & Fabrc8 for the UM2+ fan shroud (replacing the original UM2 shroud) I upgraded to a Olsen block with the original head way back with a GR5 heater, so I'm good for the hot end. I don't have a source for the UM2+ feeder in the States...it's like the parts mafia hasn't released it yet. Even so, bet it wouldn't be cheap. Parts printed...just a waitin'...

On paper it seems like an elegant solution. However you have to consider that vertex color information is only possible in select 3D mesh formats. There are not many CAD packages out there within the grasp of most FFF printer owners that have the power to color vertexes with any kind of reliability - and within budget. Most have a hard enough time just getting their mesh to be water-tight. Furthermore, once you start sharing a design or people remix it to change holes sizes etc, it's another opportunity to mess up the vertex coloring, assuming the original author's was right/good to begin with. All of this stuff is still in its infancy. Only in the past year or two has multi-color/material been within the grasp of most & it gets better every day. Prusa has some pretty cool innovations in the past year. Even the way in which it is handled by the machine is getting better by adopting parallel tech - take the Mark2 for example, which borrows some kinetic coupling and CNC toolchanger concepts for the UM2 - no prime towers...no ooze shields, no in your face brick of waste. Looking at the big picture, developers have to cover every style of FFF out there & it's an incredible amount of processing that has to be done to slice and be reliable. Unfortunately the lowest common denominator, such as average PC 'horsepower' often wins out when it comes to appealing to the most number of people...so additional vertex color info would probably bog things down - and it wouldn't work for formats such as STL that don't even have vertex color info by definition, although there are special exceptions to this irrelevant to 3DP.

Thanks - I made the mistake of resetting my S3D when I upgraded to 4.0. Since then at the end of the print, the machine just stops, nozzle in the material still and the LCD and LEDs go dark like the thing crashed. It's done this on both short and long prints...so I think it's the end script. Here's the original end script from S3D: G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M84 ; disable motors Not sure why it isn't doing the G28... I just copied/pasted @jockspice end script so hopefully that does the trick. (Also been running Tinkerware for a few years now...wouldn't recognize the factory screens anymore!) Thanks!!!

Thanks! Doin' it. I can't seem to locate in Step 6, the referenced "Chiz' cheat sheet" somewhere in this thread...Can anyone point me to it? (or just reply with quote of the post) EDIT: Chiz Cheat Sheet from May 24th HERE: (Click on chiz replied to a topic to go to cheat sheet)

Hey I want to play too! I've been busy with other things and haven't kept up with all the latest toys. I just stumbled upon the Mark2 & WOW! I am excited. I already have some goodies left over from the UM2+ upgrade, like the original hot end stuff with Olsen block installed. I just ordered a Mark2 board from GR5, official UM2+ fan shroud from FBRC8 (USA) & have a knock off UM2+ coming at some time from China on order. I *should* have everything else. I have no need for multi-color extrusion. My main focus is trying PLA support filament. If I could get this working/dialed in, I will be very, very happy! I have not made many designs with blind internal cavities requiring support because it is too hard to get the support out (like pipes or manifolds etc). If this works, it'll be a real game changer for me! So I have to go ALLLLLLL the way back to page one and read up! BUT - I just wanted to say THANK YOU! to everyone contributing to this project. In other circles, I am a major contributor and know that gratitude goes a long way to fuel the work. So thanks fellas!

Trying to download Cura v3.1 & getting "500 Internal Server Error" 12/7/2017 3:00 PM EST

Use the Tweek At Z Plugin in earlier versions of Cura or in Cura 2.4+ Extensions->PostProcess->Modify GCode and select Load Plugin & Tweek @ Z 5.1 from the list. Fill in the parameters and let it recalculate. Then save. Done.

Never-me mind, I found it after I posted thanks anyways:) Under Extensions: Post Processing: Modify G-Code -> Add The Script Also was looking for this...Thanks for posting the path! Making switch from v15.0.4 - keep going back because I can't find where Tweek @ Z is!

A special 'Thank You' to Erin and the rest of the crew at Fbrc8. They went out of their way to proactively take care of me. I know where I'll be getting my UM3 when I am ready! Thanks!!! WiseOldOwl

The 'stock' bushing are fine for a UM2. You're going to add a whole lot of extra work to *properly* mount those bearings without distorting them and adding the proper preload etc. I looked at them a while back to replace the 8mm UU bearings on a Prusa. I wound up just building a new machine (using the old electronics) and OpenBuilds bearings/extrusions. You have some research to do regarding the Igus stuff...Here is one example: http://toms3d.org/2016/06/07/should-you-be-using-igus-polymer-bushings/

Thank you Erin. I didn't think to check there...I bought the machine new from Fbrc8 a few years ago.

No unfortunately I don't. I guess I'll have to tough it out and just buy a couple from different suppliers and spin them in the lathe to see which ones run true.

Thanks Neotko. I forgot about the GitHub repository. I'm still wondering if I got replacement Ultimaker ones - since nobody has chimed in that 'mine are wobbly too' or if I should go the Misumi/SDPSI route. Buying from Misumi looks to be a bit of a hassle. I have a bunch of mini parts to make using the .25 nozzle and every little bit helps at that scale.

Nobody? Everyone has *perfect* pulleys then?

So I just did the UM2+ extrusion kit upgrade to my UM2 & I noticed that the pulleys at the back (Y axis) are out of round. I knew about this since it was new, but knowing that every little bit helps - in regards to ringing and print quality, I'd like to get them running true. -- The shafts are not bent according to my dial indicator...I *could* order new pulleys, but my concern is that they are going to be just as wonky/wobbly as the originals. Do you guys know where I can get high quality pulleys in the US that run true? (The shafts are also aligned properly and belts 'relieved' to equalize belt tension) -- Can you tell me the specs for these? I think they are GT2, 2mm pitch, 20 teeth - right? It looks like SDPSI is out of them - thought about buying some pulley stock and turning & boring them (sneaking up on bore diameter for very close fit) on the lathe. Not sure if that is worth it or not. I'd have to add side plates to each pulley if I did that though & drill/tap grub screws. Thoughts? -- I did a search before posting - I can only find info for upgrading UMO MXL to GT2...

I just published the Bulldog XL mount on YouMagine for others if they want to try it out: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bulldog-xl-mount-for-um2-ultimaker-2 FYI - I am using this mount for the E3D V6: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992952 It is OK for now. I ordered a metal holder from China which should arrive later in the month. I will weigh it and see how it compares and if it is square in X&Y EDIT: I am also too slow Thanks again for your brilliant work!

Yep...had it wired wrong! Proper wiring for Bulldog XL to Ultimaker 2 stock wiring: UM2 --------------------------- Bulldog XL Black -------------------------- Brown Green ------------------------- Red Red ---------------------------- Yellow Blue --------------------------- Blue I'm doing first print with new setup now...It is looking 'Dee-licious'

OK....Here's a bit of weirdness. I preheat the nozzle & 'Push to Extrude' material. The display shows a negative number after I move some material through the nozzle. (E.G. -76.30 mm). I am thinking everything is working OK. I go to do test print and the extruder is pulling material OUT of the nozzle, not pushing it in through the nozzle... Am I to deduce that the extruder is running backwards, or ??? If it was running backwards, should it have extruded material out of the nozzle when I press the button to do so? Scratching head...Going to swap wires and see...

Brilliant! I did see the Print Area menu item last night, but I was tired. Worked perfectly! I owe you a beer...or gluhwein I am a bit puzzled though because I compiled Marlin with Max X and Max Y values (line 356 or so) and after hiding the Wires.cpp/.h files it finally compiled. I then thought that Cura was strong-arming the .hex by flavoring it with something - so built a new config with the XY values I wanted (as a RepRap machine) and sent that over using Cura. Still no respect for the XY values I put into Marlin before compiling...Maybe there is another location for these values than Configuration.h ? Anyway...thanks a lot!!! More to follow.

Thanks Labern. I took delivery of my UM2 almost exactly 1 year ago. The original 5v heater cooling fan came on whenever the unit was powered on and stayed on. The same result with the 24v fan plugged into the J20 header. It would be nice to have fan come on/off @ 50C just to save wear on the fan if a print stops while sleeping. Last night I tested the extruder - works great! Practically squirts/shoots filament out of the nozzle if I move the filament that fast! It IS going in the right direction so no rewiring of the stepper to change rotation. Loving the Tinkergnome firmware/menu system...wishing it was on there sooner! My newest challenge is figuring out how to modify settings somewhere so that the right-side fan shroud doesn't smack into the side of the enclosure when I do things like level the build plate. I am assuming I need to search for a Max X or Y setting somewhere in the firmware and recompile, but not sure...