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WTFockewulf

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Everything posted by WTFockewulf

  1. Hey Nigel, Edge and Aichi are both on my next to do list I want to fly the Aichi off snow, god prevail we get any. Austria without snow in december... can you imagine? The Spitfire is a tough little bugger as are all 3dlabprint designs. The 38 is coming along nicely. Aim is to fly it in my days off around new years. Wish you and everybody reading this a very merry Christmas! Rgds, Philipp
  2. Hey FLG, that Spit Looks brilliant! Congrats on a clean print. Have you flown it yet? After many many flights I have passed mine on to a flying Buddy and am currently printing a P-38 for myself... Rgds and Merry X-Mas, Philipp
  3. Thanks for the Input. These are ball raced according to the product description. Truth be told, I am quite suprised These DC brushless fans work with PWM at all. The little controller must initialize first, check the position of the bell and then power up... and all this pulsed many times per second. I work a lot with brushless motors in my rc hobby and thats a lot of work for the ESC to do. Thats probably also the reason why the UM Board has a short 100% pulse when turning the fans on. Its easier for the ESC to determine the RPM of a moving bell.
  4. Right, FWIW, my UM2 is working again. After changing the 817 I first bought a set of Sunon Maglev MC30101V2-0000-A99 Fans. They do not work with the board. I then bought some cheap fans from here: Click me softly and they do the trick although they have the same specs as the more expensive Sunon ones... go figure. Both are brushless, both are 12V...
  5. Neotko, yes, very glad the board is fixed. I will order the fans tomorrow. Hope they arrive quickly, I have customers waiting Rgds and thanks for the help, its much appreciated! Philipp
  6. Right, hooked up the working original fan to the board and it works... So the question now really is where to get new fans. Looks like both are shot as is the cable somewhere along the line.
  7. OK, I wired up the LED to the PWM and it works perfectly. I can regulate the brightness of the LEDs with the FAN control. Fans wont work on the LED control though... Is it possible that the little controller in both fans could be shot? The other fans are not original UM. Best guess is these are not PWM fans... Would make sense. Seeing the cables of one of mine are cooked, where can I get replacement fans?
  8. Yep, I changed it but no avail. i have a couple more so maybe I just managed to get a faulty one. I will change it again. But I will use the LED's to cross check. Both Fans are new, but I cross checked with a pair of working ones from my secon UM2. Same story so the fans are definitely OK.
  9. Hi Guys, I have a very annoying Problem with my UM2. Due to a faulty duct (it broke during an overnight print) one fan came loose and the cable got smoldered thus causing a short circuit. After this, the (new) fans would only run on 100%. between 01 and 99% they would only "quiver". I replaced the 817 Transistor and when I measure the Voltage you can see it go up nicely to 24V as I increase the steps in the menu. But again, the fans only start up at 100%... Any Ideas are much appreciated... Rgds, Philipp
  10. Hi Guys, after just over 2000 hours of very happy printing the printed shroud cought on the print tearing from the head and ripping the fan cable thus shorting it. After fixing everything the fans will only work on and off. So 100% or nothing. I must have shot something in the controller board. Has anyone had this problem? Thanks in Advance, Philipp
  11. Hi Nigel, Yep, the silver Spitfire and the following silver P-51 both came out fine. The Mustang will fly this weekend. I cant give you any tips with cura, I sliced all parts in Simplify3D which worked very well for me. What I did do in S3D was print with a layer width of 0,48mm. It doesnt do much to the weight but the parts are a lot stronger. Turn cooling off completely for good layer adhaesion and something I did do was print every part on ist own. I did not print the entire wing in one inning like stepan does in the videos. Good luck printing the spit! Mine has about 30 flights on it now and I am constantly suprised about how great it flies. Rgds, Philipp
  12. Hi SKDesign, Ich poste meine Antwort auf Deine PN auch hier nochmal rein da ich das Problem so in den Griff bekommen habe. Übrigens konnte ich am Anfang auch mit etwa 0,5kg Blei den Fehler egalisieren, eine Dauerlösung ist das aus meiner sicht aber nicht den Stepper damit mehr zu belasten. Hier nochmal für die Öffentlichkeit 8) SG, Philipp
  13. Hey guys, thanks for the nice comments. But the credit for the design does NOT go to me but to the guys at 3dlabprint.com. That is also why I built a spit and not a "Würger" All I did was print it, but for me that was challenge enough The design in itself is quite a piece of genius as its geodesic inner support does not need a main spar and allows thin outer walls. Wingspan is just under one meter, weight just under one kilo whereas the print itself is about 460g.
  14. Thanks! Its a challenge to print and I printed the parts many times till I got proper results that I could use for the model. The Plane is actually normal PLA (Innofill transparent) und is strong enough althoug its only one perimeter (~0,48mm). The plane has five flights now and it flew perfectly well right form the start. With the current setup it does about 140km/h and has flight times of 8-12minutes, depending on throttle management. Heat was not an issue (yet) as the outside temp was only about 3°C. The motor and prop were balanced very well so no vibrations on the cell. Plane has five flights on the clock now with 38 Minutes flying time in total. No sign of cracks or other stress marks so fingers crossed. Currently printing a silver one with slightly changes settings. After that I want to do one in XT and do some high speed tests. 8)
  15. Hey guys, thanks to the talented 3dlabprint.com team I was able to print my first rc plane on my UM2... It flies absolutely brilliantly! Challenging but fun print!
  16. Short followup, printed a some parts for the fuselage of my Spitfire over night. These thin parts (red arrow, first 7mm two shells, after that one shell) always had a bad layer at about 13mm. These also turned out perfectly. I really think the problem is solved...
  17. Although I am trying not to be too enthusiastic about it, a guy in a german UM Facebook group pointed me to a possible solution of the Z Layer problem. Seeing it is a fix that can be tried within minutes I am going to share it. First you clean the axis and the driveshaft of the z axis thoroughly and apply fresh grease to the driveshaft. What you then do is run the table to the top and unplug your Ultimaker. You then loosen these eight screws by about two turns and run the table gently up and down manually a couple of times (15 times in my case). You will notice the motor and axis might move slightly. After moving the table a couple of times I tightened the screws again. Not expecting much, I started the Benchy3D print. The silver one is before, the blue one after the "tweak" (cant even call it that)... SInce then I have printed three objects that had a missing layer every single time... They are all perfect now. I guess its worth a try
  18. ok guys, thanks again for all the input. Although its not really fixed, I am at peace with my UM2. Using GCode with adapted Z Axis speeds eradicates the fault completely. I just have to accept that I cannot use CURA (unless they introduce custom Z Speeds anytime soon). The UM has been printing for almost 100h nonstop since returning from igo3d and I have not had a single failed print. If someone is interested in a working gcode generated by S3D to check their printer let me know. ...and who said you can't print any proper christmas tree decorations on the UM?!
  19. Wilkommen im Klub. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error Ich bin inzwischen der meinung, dass das keine underextrusion sondern ein Problem mit der Z Achse ist. Ich habe im Simplify3D die Z Achse auf 30mm/s gestellt und der Effekt ist verschwunden. Wenn Du möchtest schick ich Dir mal eine GCode Datei. Links CURA mit der "Sollbruchstelle" die rechten drei mit Simplify3D
  20. FWIW, I tried all my test files again. The ones with CURA 15.04.02 and CURA 15.06.01 BOTH have the fault at the same height. I tried the files from slimplify3d with the 30mm/s Z Axis speed with one and two perimeters and one with one perimeter and absolutely no infill. All three turned out fine. I will contact igo3d again but will print using simplify to get the most important prints done before the holidays.
  21. Ok guys, I am starting to lose it... Sent the UM to igo3d. They serviced the printer and sent it back. Because of an adress mixup this took over three weeks. Delivered today, checked the service note which said "PTFE changed, test print OK". They did not check my z-axis Problem. Testprint today and guess what... Same problem again, missing layers @ 18mm This is getting really really really annoying.
  22. Hi Markus, yep, thats the one. Default 16,7mm/s. Just checked again, I changed it to 30mm/s not 60mm/s. Try that and it should be OK. Update on my case. I explained this behavior to igo3d and they want me to send the printer back. It is on its way there now. I will keep you posted.
  23. Hey all, I had some time to tinker with the printer this weekend and I have found some interesting things. 1. With Cura the problem with the "missing" Layer at 18mm persists, no matter what settings I use. 2. The bed has a tight spot at 18mm. You can feel it when you move the building plate up and down. 3. my Z spindle moves slightly sideways too, just like yours, Markus. I then decided to override the system settings and do some printing with Simplify3D. I am currently printing a model aircraft and the wings are very fragile with 1 perimeter (0,4mm). Needless to say, they have to be perfect so the wing doesnt break in flight. The first prints had the same problem with the standard settings and the wing parts were useless. I then upped the z Axis speed to 60mm/s and voilá, the prints come out perfectly! It seems that the high acceleration and speed "overcomes" the tight spot and the effect vanishes. I have reported this to igo3D and we will see what the answer is.
  24. Hi GR5, thanks for the reply. In removing you mean remove and clean and reinstall and not permanently remove, right? I will give that a shot this weekend.
  25. Hi Marco, exact same Problem at the same height here. I have an open ticket with igo3d. First try at a solution was to change the motor current but that did not help... Hope to solve the problem and post the solution here soon. my Ultimaker is 1 week old...
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