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Everything posted by 2go

  1. Alright, found some info here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/6513 and here https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/pull/1108 -- fingers crossed it gets fixed in the next release. Reverted to Cura 3.6 for now.
  2. Hello! Ultimaker 2+. Upgraded from Cura 3.4.1 to 4.4.1. In 3.4.1 setting 'Retraction Minimum Travel' was visible. In 4.4.1 it is hidden with a message 'This setting has been hidden by the active machine and will not be visible'. Not being able to change the default value increases printing time for the type of things I print by roughly 20% without any visible benefit. Is there a way to change it without going back to an older version of Cura? Thank you.
  3. Hey guys, same problem here. Does anyone know a part number for this broken metal ring thingy? I quickly looked through the source files of 2+ but could not find this part. Don't really want to buy a new feeder over this small metal ring...
  4. I do not have answers to your questions. Just +1 to how awesome these plates are for PLA. No warping, no messing with glue. I use them on my two UM2+ exclusively.
  5. Please let me know if it does not sell locally and you would would like to ship it within EU.
  6. Looking to buy used Ultimaker 2+ in EU. I need a second printer for a large project.
  7. Yeah, I don't think a door will hurt in my usage scenario. I never print anything with overhangs. I usually fill whole bed with small/medium sized prints and print really slow (20 mm/s at 0.2 layer height) for the best surface quality. Each layer usually takes 5-10 minutes to finish so PLA has plenty of time to cool. I do not use fan cooling at all. I'm aware of printedsolid's door but since I am in Europe (this new forum does not show location anymore) the cost+shipping+taxes is the same as getting whole advanced printing kit from Ultimaker. I do not experience a lot of warping. I mean you cannot even see it while the print is still on the glass. Just when looking at the bottom of the finished part, some sharper corners are not flat like a mirror but slightly bent upwards. And it really bugs me since all of my prints are for commercial production and I would ideally want it to be absolutely flat. This never happens when printing one small part in the middle of the glass. But when I pack bed full of the same small parts and leave the print overnight, this small warping becomes evident. I used to have Ultimaker 2 Go with heated bed. Made 1500+ prints in 6000+ hours. Mirror like bottom finish every time (bed set to 75, so about 60 actually). I am absolutely confident in my ability to level the bed and perfectly squish first layer. I own Ultimaker 2+ for two weeks now and fail to reproduce this perfect result with the same nozzle, settings and filament. The only obvious difference is size of the printer, larger openings to let cold air in and the fact that I can print more parts at the same time so the plastic sits idle for longer. My print jobs usually last for 8 hours so it is inevitable that someone will open a window a few times and let some cold Northern European wind in. This is my reasoning for wanting to try front door. By the way, in these two weeks I have found the best bed temperature to be 53 for some reason. Still not perfect adhesion but seems best so far. 60 seems too hot. A bit more warping and I can easily remove the part from the glass while it is still at 60. This is using Colorfabb pla/pha which has glass temperature of 55. That is why I asked if it is best to aim for the bed temperature to be lower or higher than the glass temperature of the material in some other thread. Common sense would dictate that slightly higher temp would be better to relieve tension but I am having better results with a temperature slightly below glass point. Of course, I have no way of knowing if the printer reports bed temperature accurately and how even it is all across the surface of printing glass surface.
  8. It is not really my intention to hijack the thread but... I have a question that has been bugging me all day long. When fine tuning settings for perfect adhesion, should one aim to set bed temperature exactly at the glass temperature of PLA? Slightly below, slightly above? Now to contribute to the topic -- if the glass is really level, temperature is about right and glass is clean... maybe try another brand of PLA? I've tested quite a few different ones and the differences were huge in terms of lifting corners. Don't know about glue. I find it messy. People say it works very well.
  9. Thank you. That actually makes sense. I think I will try the door anyway since my printer is located between two large windows that sometimes get opened at the same time. Plus it should serve serve as an added protection layer for my child. Once she learns to walk and grows tall enough to see what's on the table. I usually print at 200 degrees with heated bed under 60 degrees which is relatively cool so heat creep should not be an issue, especially with the top of the printer still open. If I decide to install the door and notice deteriorating print quality, I'll make sure to report back in this thread.
  10. Hello, I'm thinking about purchasing advanced 3d printing kit for 2+. Mainly because of the front enclosure (door). To keep drafts away. Ultimaker says: Use of the front enclosure can be detrimental for PLA prints that require a high level of retractions. Source: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22225-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pla Does anyone have an idea how and why? Thanks!
  11. Hello, I am selling my Ultimaker 2 Go. 4762 printing hours. Upgrades include: * heated bed from 3dsolex * 40W heater * Olsson block * Ultimaker 2+ metal fan shroud Runs with tinkergnome firmware. New bowden tube, teflon coupler and Swiss Micro nozzle installed about a month ago. Reason for sale: upgraded to Ultimaker 2+. Perfect as a backup printer, someone new to 3d printing, teaching or for general tinkering. It is in by no means perfect condition cosmetically, normal wear and tear signs from two years of use - some scratch marks and cracked plastic here and there from opening it numerous times for upgrades and general maintenance, also screen has some burned in letters and numbers, it does not impact usage in any way. However, mechanically it works very well. Heated bed performs amazingly. I only ever printed PLA - no warping, perfect adhesion to glass every time. Will ship worldwide. However, I would prefer a sale to EU because of faster and cheaper shipping and less paperwork. Located in Lithuania. €600 plus shipping costs. I will not consider lower offers at this point. Please write me a message if interested. Thanks for looking!
  12. I just hate pure brass nozzles. Yes, they are cheap. And have great heat transfer properties. However, PLA sticks to brass. Then it burns and leaves black residue on white/natural colored prints. Currently searching for the best 'non-stick' coated nozzle. I've tried ICE coated stainless steel ones from 3dsolex. Coating works great, reduces PLA stickiness by 90% or so. However, quality control is lacking. 0.4mm ICE coated ones have smaller opening diameter than 0.4 brass RSB ones. No measuring needed, visible with naked eye. Could be a bad batch, I don't know. Bought two, not buying again. Micro Swiss makes coated brass nozzles. Good results, PLA does not stick much to them, compared with regular brass ones. On the more expensive side. E3D make plated copper nozzles. Did not try them yet. They should fit Olsson block, right? Any experiences? Any more recommendations? What nozzle manufacturer is your favorite? Thanks.
  13. Thanks @smartavionics ! Worked perfectly. I agree that it should have been set to 0 by default. It would be so cool to specify different wall counts for bottom/top/rest of the print. Couldn't find such feature yet, I hope it gets implemented one day...
  14. Hello, same model, same settings. Wall Line Count set to 1. Where does this green line come from in Cura 3.x? Thanks! Cura 2.x screenshot: Cura 3.x screenshot:
  15. Thanks guys for your answers. I just installed this new TFN in my machine. First print went great. @Dim3nsioneer you say that TFN and TFT from 3dsolex have the same specs. They do feel very different in hand. TFT ones felt very slippery and were semi-translucent. This new TFN is whiter, opaque and feels very similar to old Ultimaker PTFE which shipped when Ultimaker 2 came out... Well, as long as they work fine, I'm good.
  16. Hello! I'm confused. I used these semi-translucent couplers from 3dsolex (TFT or TFM? I don't know...). Liked them a lot. Now they have new ones, called TFN. Not translucent anymore. Are they better?
  17. Hello, A little background: I only print PLA. 0.2mm layers, 20mm/s speed. 0.4mm nozzles. Surface quality is the most important thing to me. For two years I've been using brass RSB JET 0.4 nozzles exclusively. I see 3dsolex also offer other interesting options with Matchless and SS "ICE" nozzles. Are they worth almost double the price for my usage? I would really appreciate some real world experience, there is nothing but marketing talk on 3dsolex page. For Matchless, I don't care about speed, but can I really print 5-15 degrees cooler? My current sweet spot is 200 degress at 0.2mm layers, 20mm/s. As for SS "ICE", does it absolutely eliminate PLA sticking to the tip of the nozzle and being dragged around? What about the fact that it is stainless steel? Does it heat up significantly slower than brass? Thanks for any input!
  18. I see this being said from time to time on this forum. I wonder how much truth there is to it. I have my lovely UM2GO for almost two years now, upgraded with heated bed and Olsson block. It has over 3000 printing hours and still going strong. However, I plan to replace it in few months with UM2+. Only because of larger build volume. Does the smaller and sturdier frame of UM2GO really make a big difference compared to UM2+? I always print at 20mm/s for best possible quality... and I wonder will the finish quality suffer once I upgrade...
  19. Hello, I've tried blueish white and standard white PLA/PHA in the past. Didn't like them one bit, ugly surface finish. Later found out they're notoriously hard to print with. Moved to another brand. I would like to give Colorfabb another try. As is the case with all filament manufacturers, some colours print better than others. I know quite some of you use Colorfabb's PLA/PHA. It would be great if anyone could share their experiences with different colours from Colorfabb's PLA/PHA range. I'm mostly interested in surface finish quality (I always print 0.2mm layers @20mm/s) and great layer bonding properties with no stringing or blobs. I heard Dutch Orange is good, what else? Thanks!
  20. Hi! How is the nozzle removal/tightening tool called (picture below)? I lost mine and no idea how to search for it online... Thanks!
  21. +1 There used to be 'Retract while combing' plugin for legacy Cura. Did not try it but sounded very useful.
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