Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Wolverineairsoft

Dormant
  • Content Count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
    US
  1. OK so after a week and a half of printing I am pretty sure this is sorted out. The first issue I had was the z-axis controller overheating. I changed the steady-state amperage to 1000. However I still had the issue of The z-axis bearings binding. I remove the rods and bearings and tested and found that it was just one of them binding. I cleaned the Bering thoroughly with WD-40. This took care of the sticking and after letting it dry I reapplied some lithium bearing grease to the linear bearing. I do not suggest allowing the Bering to run with no grease on it at all. Despite the fact that thi
  2. Linear bearings are binding on the shaft. Removed bearing from build plate and it binds all by itself. Can't say I'm impressed by this. :-/ pretty glaring qc problem. I suppose I shall be contacting Ultimaker about a replacement.
  3. Actually should clarify printer basic speed is 80mm/s but inner shell was 50, outer shell was 60mm/s.
  4. This is ABS, not PLA so 260 should be fine. It seems I have both the overheating z-axis controller and a binding bearing...so that's fun. The one is fixed, the other still needs to be dealt with. I am fighting a different issue as well however. Print is: ABS .25mm layer thickness .4 mm tip 80mm/s 110 on the bed 260 on the tip It was a thin wall part with all wall thicknesses right at 1.2mm Throughout the entire part (175mm) I had extremely poor layer cohesion. It never actually seperated, but it looks week and has small gaps. my daughter dropped it on the floor from only about 18"
  5. Next test was...interesting. First inch printed perfectly. .25mm 80m/s. After that the print was looking under extruded and not adhering well between layers. However it didn't ever completely skip a layer. thoughts? At 105 or 110% flow I think. 105 on the tray and 260 at the tip.
  6. That one came out perfect. Printing another taller part now to see if the change was sufficient or I need to do the bearings as well.
  7. Incidentally, I have not put anything on the z posts and they seem dry and free of grease.
  8. Awesome! I'm a little baffled cause I examined 3 failed prints more closely. Two of them had compression/mushrooming I the layers immediately before the failure as you would expect if the bed is sticking and then dropping. However the third did not. Pristine layers up to a sudden failure. Possible I have both a sticking and an overheating issue? I have reduced the z current to 1000 and so far the print has been good, but that doesn't necessarily prove anything. Will report back once I have more data.
  9. Ok thanks for the tips. Bed definitely is a bit gritty especially at the top. But doesn't bind. Can I change the current during a print? Also would adding a pause and resume help it not overheating?
  10. Add me to the list. Brand new U2 banding at 10-15mm. Definite binding at that height from the linear ball bearings. Any known solutions?
  11. Hey all, have run into a baffling issue that I haven't been able to track down. I'm printing ABS on a brand new UM2. What happens is my prints are going along perfectly and then will randomly massively under extrude for a layer or two and then return to normal operation. By then however the part is ruined and breaks apart. Here are some pictures. Don't mind the ugly bed...I've been using an acetone/abs glue to stick parts down. Things I have tried that I can think of: loosening material on spool slowing print speed to 50mm/s atomic clean I'm sure there are other things...I've
×
×
  • Create New...