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  1. Cura 3.5 fixed my "pause at height" issue with my S5, but now it seems to cause a "pause at height" issue with my UM 2+ The nozzle does not cool to the specified standby temp after the pause. It stays at the printing temp and of course makes a mess.
  2. Here's a curious development. I just let a malfunctioning print run to see what would happen, and after a few minutes it became clear that after the pause the feeder began running IN REVERSE! My filament is now halfway up the bowden tube!
  3. I have attempted several different builds that require a "pause at height/layer" for me to insert a part, then continue printing. After any pause at height operation, my S5 resumes by extruding a small blob of plastic in a location seemingly unrelated to the print. It then resumes printing, but just moves the head, with no extrusion. It is not a clogged nozzle. I've updated the firmware and I'm using Cura version 3.4.1 Anyone else having an issue, and more importantly, is there a solution? I can't monitor the printer constantly to determine when to pause it manually. I need this fe
  4. I don't think it matters that the rust is on the outside of this part, but you definitely don't want it migrating to any of the bearing surfaces. I'm going to make an educated guess that either you live in a humid area, or your printer is in a basement or other room that suffers from "dankness". In such a case I would make sure to lubricate the metal parts of the printer a little more frequently than recommended in the manual (sewing machine oil on the XY rods, grease on the threaded Z rod). It would also be a good idea to place a dehumidifier near the printer. Bonus: environmental control
  5. I recently had a bad jam in my bowden tube. After several material changes, the wispy threads that sometimes get left behind bunched up and wrapped around the filament I was using. It was so bad it created a visible bulge in the tube: Normal methods for getting a broken piece of filament out of the tube were of no use, given how badly stuck this was. Here is what worked for unsticking a really bad (PLA) jam: 1. Remove all the loose filament you can 2. Remove the bowden tube from the printer 3. Boil water 4. Hold the tube under the hot water at the location of the jam for 2-3 minutes 5.
  6. I'd also print it right side up, but if it were my model I'd add my own internal supports in the CAD, not in Cura. That way you can control where they are to a degree and make them less visible from the doorway. Or you can make them look like internal structure that's part of the design of the ship.
  7. Hi Becky, I can verify that with the UM2+ firmware, my ABS material profile is identical to yours. I also cannot raise the bed temperature over 100C. I rarely ever print in ABS so I would never have known this was problematic.
  8. The third picture is a typical problem. The upper layers of PLA cool more rapidly, shrink, and pull up on the bottom layers, causing the warping. This resource will help you deal with that and potentially other issues you may have.
  9. The first 2 pictures are 2 different attempts, right? In the first picture, are we seeing the bottom of the print? In the second picture, which side of the print was touching the glass plate?
  10. There is some slack in the design. Perhaps it is enough to cause the gears to slip over time. I corrected that also before I put the feeder housing back on by loosening the plate and holding it up while I tightened the screws.
  11. Images of the slipped drive gear, note how it's completely disengaged from the large gear.
  12. It was the same problem as OP. I'm trying OP's superglue method. Edit: so far so good.
  13. I have this problem also. There is not a lot of diagnostic information about it yet, so I thought I'd share the symptoms I found: Despite a clean bowden and extruder assembly, under extrusion persists You may hear occasional loud pops and see the filament shudder (this is the gears slipping out of engagement) During printing, the movement of the filament will become stuttered and anemic, but the motor will not skip back (because pressure is not building at the extruder) Eventually the filament may stop moving at all Low scraping or clicking sounds from the feeder Here is a v
  14. Interested in feedback from people who successfully swap nozzles in their Olsson Block. Ultimaker suggests tightening the nozzle with a torque wrench set to 1 - 1.5 Nm. According to Anders Olsson, the torque wrench print will apply 0.25 - 0.5 Nm. Does anyone with experience have feedback as to which setting is more reliable? Or does it not really matter?
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