peetree

Cura 3.5 fixed my "pause at height" issue with my S5, but now it seems to cause a "pause at height" issue with my UM 2+ The nozzle does not cool to the specified standby temp after the pause. It stays at the printing temp and of course makes a mess.

Great! Maybe I'll try the beta.

Here's a curious development. I just let a malfunctioning print run to see what would happen, and after a few minutes it became clear that after the pause the feeder began running IN REVERSE! My filament is now halfway up the bowden tube!

I have attempted several different builds that require a "pause at height/layer" for me to insert a part, then continue printing. After any pause at height operation, my S5 resumes by extruding a small blob of plastic in a location seemingly unrelated to the print. It then resumes printing, but just moves the head, with no extrusion. It is not a clogged nozzle. I've updated the firmware and I'm using Cura version 3.4.1 Anyone else having an issue, and more importantly, is there a solution? I can't monitor the printer constantly to determine when to pause it manually. I need this feature to work.

I don't think it matters that the rust is on the outside of this part, but you definitely don't want it migrating to any of the bearing surfaces. I'm going to make an educated guess that either you live in a humid area, or your printer is in a basement or other room that suffers from "dankness". In such a case I would make sure to lubricate the metal parts of the printer a little more frequently than recommended in the manual (sewing machine oil on the XY rods, grease on the threaded Z rod). It would also be a good idea to place a dehumidifier near the printer. Bonus: environmental control makes for better prints in addition to a happy machine.

I recently had a bad jam in my bowden tube. After several material changes, the wispy threads that sometimes get left behind bunched up and wrapped around the filament I was using. It was so bad it created a visible bulge in the tube: Normal methods for getting a broken piece of filament out of the tube were of no use, given how badly stuck this was. Here is what worked for unsticking a really bad (PLA) jam: 1. Remove all the loose filament you can 2. Remove the bowden tube from the printer 3. Boil water 4. Hold the tube under the hot water at the location of the jam for 2-3 minutes 5. Quickly insert a clean, room temperature length of filament into the tube 6. Use the clean filament to tap the jammed filament repeatedly until it comes out of the tube 7. Allow the bowden tube to air dry, then replace on the printer

I'd also print it right side up, but if it were my model I'd add my own internal supports in the CAD, not in Cura. That way you can control where they are to a degree and make them less visible from the doorway. Or you can make them look like internal structure that's part of the design of the ship.

Hi Becky, I can verify that with the UM2+ firmware, my ABS material profile is identical to yours. I also cannot raise the bed temperature over 100C. I rarely ever print in ABS so I would never have known this was problematic.

The third picture is a typical problem. The upper layers of PLA cool more rapidly, shrink, and pull up on the bottom layers, causing the warping. This resource will help you deal with that and potentially other issues you may have.

The first 2 pictures are 2 different attempts, right? In the first picture, are we seeing the bottom of the print? In the second picture, which side of the print was touching the glass plate?

There is some slack in the design. Perhaps it is enough to cause the gears to slip over time. I corrected that also before I put the feeder housing back on by loosening the plate and holding it up while I tightened the screws.

Images of the slipped drive gear, note how it's completely disengaged from the large gear.

It was the same problem as OP. I'm trying OP's superglue method. Edit: so far so good.

I have this problem also. There is not a lot of diagnostic information about it yet, so I thought I'd share the symptoms I found: Despite a clean bowden and extruder assembly, under extrusion persists You may hear occasional loud pops and see the filament shudder (this is the gears slipping out of engagement) During printing, the movement of the filament will become stuttered and anemic, but the motor will not skip back (because pressure is not building at the extruder) Eventually the filament may stop moving at all Low scraping or clicking sounds from the feeder Here is a visual of the feeder while this is happening: If you watch the slotted bearing (which is the end of the knurled wheel), you can see it moving very poorly, then stopping and sometimes skipping back slightly. If this happens to you it is wise to remove the plastic housing and check the position of the nylon gear on the shaft. It should be flush with the end of the shaft.

Interested in feedback from people who successfully swap nozzles in their Olsson Block. Ultimaker suggests tightening the nozzle with a torque wrench set to 1 - 1.5 Nm. According to Anders Olsson, the torque wrench print will apply 0.25 - 0.5 Nm. Does anyone with experience have feedback as to which setting is more reliable? Or does it not really matter?

This sounds like a back-of-the-printer issue. In addition to checking for grinding filament, after a failed print check to see if there is tension on the length of filament between the spool and feeder. Check for tangles on the spool. Too much friction between the filament on the spool and the feeder will cause stoppage as the feeder can't push the filament to the extruder effectively. If the prints have very many retractions spaced closely together, this can cause grinding or deformation of the filament as well.

I used to have this issue a lot. In my case it had nothing to do with the hot end and everything to do with the feeder and spool (UM2). The simple explanation was too much tension building up between the feeder and the spool due to a tangle, or simply because the stock spool holder and filament guide are not great designs and caused too much friction. Check behind the printer after a failure and see if it feels like the filament has been pulled tight. This would indicate a problem. If you're using the stock spool and filament guide I recommend printing an upgrade such as IRobertI's excellent low friction spool holder and Ppyromann's bearing filament guide

Thanks for your reply, I just got up and running again. Component on the circuit board went bad...

This is something the Architecture side of my firm struggles with (they use ArchiCAD). It's important to give feedback to CAD software company about it so they can improve the 3D printing workflow. It doesn't solve your immediate need :\ but hopefully it gets architects a better solution soon. As an example, Solidworks has a tool called "defeature" which essentially takes complex hollow assemblies of many parts and reduces them to a single solid blob which is easier to convert to a closed mesh.

I did get in touch with Fbrc8, I'm up and running now, with stickers!

It sucks, does it mean that you can't use your printer anymore or you've got an other one in stock ? It's our only one, and it's a brick until I get it fixed. I've ruled out a problem with the motor and wiring so it seems like it's a problem on the board :(

I've recently upgraded my UM2 to UM2+ with the extrusion upgrade kit. Updated firmware. Everything seemed to go fine, but now the Y-axis motor won't run. I thought I must have damaged the wire, but I tested by plugging in the old feeder motor (now left over from the upgrade), with no movement there either. What happens is that the head won't home prior to running the bed leveling program; it homes in the X axis only, then it gives the "X or Y axis switch broken" error. But the switch works fine because if I manually home the head, the bed leveling program runs, but without any Y-axis movement. The board and the connector look fine, physically. Please, help me diagnose the problem. Electrical is not my forte.

Well, I feel dumb. The real problem is that the Y axis motor isn't running at all. So I must have broken the wire or connectors while I was installing the upgrade. Thanks for your help 00D00B!

I've confirmed there's no real "X or Y switch broken" error by manually pressing the switch, which clears the error message. The machine is not moving the extruder to the correct location.

OK, but what about the extruder location? That's not the correct location for the 1st step of leveling the build plate. The machine moved the extruder there, it wasn't set there from the beginning. That's why I've guessed that the X and Y motors are working as if they're swapped. I don't think there's an issue with the endstops.