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  1. Hi Guys I have a number of products that I print with 1.2 mm nozzle. I do this on different machines and had no problem using Cura 2 where I could set the diameter. Not so in later versions. Is there a way or work-around for me to get Cura 3 working for this? Thanks
  2. Thanks for that. I have it resolved though. I had z- seam alignment off. Now they all line up as a 'scar' but I don't mind that.
  3. Hi Guys I recently installed Cura 3.2.1. The products I am printing for my wastewater irrigation systems are mainly cylindrical and now I find a LOT (!) of unnecessary traveling across the walls of the products. It appears that now every next layer needs to start at a different point more-or-less opposite the point where it finished printing previous layers. This gives a lot of unnecessary movement and poor quality. What am I missing here?? I tried to import the profile I used for Cura 2.1.2 but Cura 3.2.1 didn't accept the file. So I tried as best as possible to enter same settings manu
  4. Hi Guys. I guess this is more a general query and not particular UM related. I am printing with Laybrick which is a bit of a pain. Biggest problem seems to be the material picking up moist (despite being stored in a plastic container with some 'de-hydrating' sachets). While printing it causes small 'steam-explosions' in the head. I also found some condensate in bowden tube. Of course this varies from coil to coil, probably depending on time after manufacturing. Improvements can be made in design of model and Cura settings but still to few prints are really use-able. Does anyone have an e
  5. Thanks for quick respond. I appreciate that it is not simply a matter of longer rods and bigger box and build plate and must admit that my gut find the rods indeed a bit thin for such lengths. Some Chinese manufacturers though (up to approx 400 x 300 build plate) have done this, look a bit like a stretched UM and seem to work and are being sold (legal issues?) even though some reviews are a bit 'scary'. I find it a bit strange that Ultimaker, considering its commercial succes, has not entered this avenue (albeit as a kit with stronger rods, etc) as it is a logical fact that this too will find
  6. Hi Guys Just wondering if there are some developments re. a larger Ultimaker. In previous discussions it was referred to as (possibly) an Ultimaker 3+. I have just finished a feasibility study and concluded that I can start manufacturing my products using 3D-printing. However the build plate is a bit small which means I currently have to glue the components. For this I use ordinary PVC cement and it appears to work fantastic for the PLA that I use. Now this is however not desirable for a number of reasons. Having said that, accuracy and aesthetics are not so much an issue but it is really pr
  7. Yep, had my fingers on wrong button. I assume the other 'Material'-parameters (such as Z-hop and retraction length) are product-'sensitive' and setting these in Cura will mean a transfer to printer within the gcode. I will play around with it. Thank you again.
  8. many thanks for this quick and clear reply. I will look into this and reply again with result
  9. Hi guys I bought a printer approx. 6 months ago and am new to this community. I consider myself as quite new in this whole 3D printing department and not really a thorough tekki as many others but still... I have a problem with settings in Cura. I use latest beta version which is brilliant for me as I require that level of detailing to make the printing work for my project. However, for some reason the settings under the 'Material' tab appear not to be transfered into the 'brain' of my UM2. When I had the printer new it seemed default set at 220 degrees for print head 60 for the bed . Ch
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