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purps

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purps last won the day on April 24 2017

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  1. You're a star, thank you, couldn't work out whether it was inner wall, outer wall, infill...... it was something else! Gapfill! Turning gapfill off will solve the problem I am sure. Playing with line widths is also a good suggestion, however whatever worked for the middle of the part was ruining the top and bottom layer. Is there any way to change the line width for gapfill? Or does it not work like that? Thanks again, Matt.
  2. Trying to print this part with a 0.8 nozzle, and Cura is placing thin angled infill lines (blue circle) in this narrow section, whereas it would be a lot better if it just did a single fat line all the way round (as per the green circle) - is there any trick to this? Unfortunately I can't edit the part in this case. Thank you for any and all help. Cheers, Matt.
  3. Hi all, I finished the prosthesis prototype a few months ago, sorry I only just round to posting pictures. The thumbscrew and hinge were printed separately, but the whole of the hinged part is printed in one piece.
  4. I'm really sorry, I didn't find that via Google. I'm on V17.02. So it's fixed! Thank you very much for this and all you do for the community. Cheers, Matt.
  5. Hey everyone. Have I found a bug? Firstly, love the firmware, it's amazing. When babystepping Z, let's say to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, I then use the store command, but when I do the next print, the gap is bigger! I haven't tried to measure it, but I think the adjustment is being stored in the wrong direction, if that makes sense. Anybody else seen this? Cheers, and thank you for the wonderful firmware, I couldn't be without it now. Matt.
  6. Oh the other thing I would say as well is to make sure you add a nice bit of margin on the height of the cavity. For a 3mm thick nut for example, and 0.1 layers, I would make the cavity 3.2 mm tall. Better to be too big than too small. The first layer over the nut (or bolt head) will "fall" onto the metal, much like with support structure, so it won't actually be loose after the print. If the cavity is too small, the nozzle can hit the metal part, which is not good. Cheers, Matt.
  7. @SandervG - I totally blagged the idea from a socket set I have (I like rusty cars). @geert_2 - you've answered all the other questions brilliantly as usual. May I take this opportunity to say thank you for all the times you have helped me. Your posts always pop up whenever I search the forums! That thread about how to design your own support structure - I keep coming back to that time and time again as it has so much useful information. I am currently working on a simple prosthesis, for new amputees, which will combine the techniques discussed here to create a lockable hinge, and also th
  8. You're most welcome. The other thing I would say is don't go any smaller than an M4 (a good rule generally I find!). M3s (and smaller) are definitely more likely to deform the surrounding plastic to the point where the bolt will spin freely, rendering the thumbscrew useless. Cheers, Matt.
  9. PLA and stainless steel bolt. I cannot physically break it (and I am at least reasonably strong). In fact during a very unscientific test, the bottom of the thumbscrew started to bulge, because the material under the bolt head was beginning to squash - that's how much torque I was putting into it. Perhaps one day I will do some proper tests. You need to 1. make it as tight a fit as possible (so do some test prints) and 2. don't model the hole as a straight sided hexagon - instead introduce a slight radius. This means the torque is carried through the flats of the bolt head and into the sur
  10. Firstly absolutely no disrespect intended to anybody maintaining/developing Cura, but personally I just haven't got on with the "pause at height" plugin. Everything else is awesome :-) I wanted to be able to insert COTS items, nuts, bolts, etc into my designs during the print, and then have my printer continue on its merry way and trap the items inside. Naturally I looked at the "pause at height" plugin. The first layer following the pause never seemed to go right, no matter what I tried. I even tried manually editing the Gcode, but again I struggled to make it work. So I came up with this
  11. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just wanted to say thank you so much for this information. I can't believe I made this numpty mistake as well - I'll put it down to tiredness. It would have taken a very long time to diagnose without this thread, especially as I had absolutely no desire to remove that flipping mainboard again. Cheers, Matt.
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