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purps

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purps last won the day on April 24 2017

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  1. It's an alternative to using Y cables for the fans etc, gives you better control. I say this like I know what I am talking about, obviously I'll see how easy it is very soon!! EDIT: That said, the new UM2s apparently don't have a 5th motor driver..... I believe mine is old enough to have it, but it's been a while since I dug around inside to confirm...... fingers crossed I don't need a new mainboard as well!!
  2. @gr5 you are a fountain of knowledge as usual, thanks for the info. I have bought just the board and will source an official UM2+ upgrade kit. I do have a spare feeder motor (there is no motor included with the chinese kit as far as I can tell) and also a spare set of fans from when I upgraded my UM2 to UM2+, so maybe it would all work out OK, but to be honest I don't think I want to take the risk for the cost difference. Glad to hear yours are all fine though!!
  3. Hi all, Really excited about upgrading my UM2+ to Mark 2. As far as I am aware my best option for getting hold of the required expansion board is AliExpress (£25) - no problem there. However I noticed another seller also provides the hot end and extruder along with the expansion board (£95). My original plan was to invest in an official UM2+ upgrade kit (over £450) to carry out the Mark 2 upgrade, but I can't help but be tempted by the AliExpress option. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829918859.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4174634f9crqiq&algo_pvid=e79b29e7-02ec-4dc8-9352-eb51e76ca7f1&algo_exp_id=e79b29e7-02ec-4dc8-9352-eb51e76ca7f1-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"65086776888"} Anyone have any experience with this hot end and extruder? I know they are not genuine, but I don't have much experience with "copies" when it comes to 3D printing. I am loath to cheap out on it if I am just going to get lots of problems. In the past I have always gone with official stuff, and as a result (I think) my 3D printing experience has been relatively pain-free. Any and all help much appreciated. Matt.
  4. You're a star, thank you, couldn't work out whether it was inner wall, outer wall, infill...... it was something else! Gapfill! Turning gapfill off will solve the problem I am sure. Playing with line widths is also a good suggestion, however whatever worked for the middle of the part was ruining the top and bottom layer. Is there any way to change the line width for gapfill? Or does it not work like that? Thanks again, Matt.
  5. Trying to print this part with a 0.8 nozzle, and Cura is placing thin angled infill lines (blue circle) in this narrow section, whereas it would be a lot better if it just did a single fat line all the way round (as per the green circle) - is there any trick to this? Unfortunately I can't edit the part in this case. Thank you for any and all help. Cheers, Matt.
  6. Hi all, I finished the prosthesis prototype a few months ago, sorry I only just round to posting pictures. The thumbscrew and hinge were printed separately, but the whole of the hinged part is printed in one piece.
  7. I'm really sorry, I didn't find that via Google. I'm on V17.02. So it's fixed! Thank you very much for this and all you do for the community. Cheers, Matt.
  8. Hey everyone. Have I found a bug? Firstly, love the firmware, it's amazing. When babystepping Z, let's say to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, I then use the store command, but when I do the next print, the gap is bigger! I haven't tried to measure it, but I think the adjustment is being stored in the wrong direction, if that makes sense. Anybody else seen this? Cheers, and thank you for the wonderful firmware, I couldn't be without it now. Matt.
  9. I happened across the Mark2 project yesterday. Maybe it's the sleep deprivation (new baby), but I nearly wept when I saw it, it's such a clever and beautiful design. Please forgive my ignorance, as I have to ask... why can't you just permanently attach the second head? Do you really need to keep parking it? Cheers, Matt.
  10. Hi all, Just started using the awesome tinkergnome firmware, so getting a lot more into the nuts and bolts now! :-) Let's assume I calibrate the build plate with the nozzle touching the glass, using "Adjust Z position", so that's my new zero. Now if I have my initial layer thickness set to 0.27mm, does the nozzle actually start 0.27mm away from the plate? If yes, how is there any squish? Or, is the first layer simply laid down at whatever height you calibrated the build plate to, with no clever adjustment by either Cura or the hardware? Cheers, Matt.
  11. I'm embarrassed that I've never heard of it, thanks for making me aware! Just started playing, and oh my. Cheers, Matt.
  12. I have just started the tinkergnome firmware journey using the power of the search function. It looks really good, I think I will have to give it a go. Thanks again. Matt.
  13. Thanks for the reply, that reminds me I need to try your fan shroud :-) I'm using the UM2+. Is that custom firmware? I have not delved into that world yet! But it sounds good for what I want to do, I am really looking for repeatability here. Cheers, Matt.
  14. Hi all, I won't bore you with everything I've tried to get this material to print well, but I think it's down to bed height (PETG needs extra Z gap). The advice is to back the bed off in 0.02mm increments until you get the gap right. Can I do this through Cura rather than trying to do it with the thumb screws? If the material is apparently that sensitive to build plate height, then I feel like the best thing to do would be to level the build plate as per my normal method just once, and then adjust the gap in software rather than trying to turn 3 thumbscrews the same amount... I can't see the setting in Cura, and I believe I've read it's not there - hope I'm wrong. Or can I edit the Gcode? Cheers, Matt.
  15. Oh the other thing I would say as well is to make sure you add a nice bit of margin on the height of the cavity. For a 3mm thick nut for example, and 0.1 layers, I would make the cavity 3.2 mm tall. Better to be too big than too small. The first layer over the nut (or bolt head) will "fall" onto the metal, much like with support structure, so it won't actually be loose after the print. If the cavity is too small, the nozzle can hit the metal part, which is not good. Cheers, Matt.
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