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purps last won the day on April 24 2017

purps had the most liked content!

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  1. You're a star, thank you, couldn't work out whether it was inner wall, outer wall, infill...... it was something else! Gapfill! Turning gapfill off will solve the problem I am sure. Playing with line widths is also a good suggestion, however whatever worked for the middle of the part was ruining the top and bottom layer. Is there any way to change the line width for gapfill? Or does it not work like that? Thanks again, Matt.
  2. Trying to print this part with a 0.8 nozzle, and Cura is placing thin angled infill lines (blue circle) in this narrow section, whereas it would be a lot better if it just did a single fat line all the way round (as per the green circle) - is there any trick to this? Unfortunately I can't edit the part in this case. Thank you for any and all help. Cheers, Matt.
  3. Hi all, I finished the prosthesis prototype a few months ago, sorry I only just round to posting pictures. The thumbscrew and hinge were printed separately, but the whole of the hinged part is printed in one piece.
  4. I'm really sorry, I didn't find that via Google. I'm on V17.02. So it's fixed! Thank you very much for this and all you do for the community. Cheers, Matt.
  5. Hey everyone. Have I found a bug? Firstly, love the firmware, it's amazing. When babystepping Z, let's say to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, I then use the store command, but when I do the next print, the gap is bigger! I haven't tried to measure it, but I think the adjustment is being stored in the wrong direction, if that makes sense. Anybody else seen this? Cheers, and thank you for the wonderful firmware, I couldn't be without it now. Matt.
  6. I happened across the Mark2 project yesterday. Maybe it's the sleep deprivation (new baby), but I nearly wept when I saw it, it's such a clever and beautiful design. Please forgive my ignorance, as I have to ask... why can't you just permanently attach the second head? Do you really need to keep parking it? Cheers, Matt.
  7. Hi all, Just started using the awesome tinkergnome firmware, so getting a lot more into the nuts and bolts now! :-) Let's assume I calibrate the build plate with the nozzle touching the glass, using "Adjust Z position", so that's my new zero. Now if I have my initial layer thickness set to 0.27mm, does the nozzle actually start 0.27mm away from the plate? If yes, how is there any squish? Or, is the first layer simply laid down at whatever height you calibrated the build plate to, with no clever adjustment by either Cura or the hardware? Cheers, Matt.
  8. I'm embarrassed that I've never heard of it, thanks for making me aware! Just started playing, and oh my. Cheers, Matt.
  9. I have just started the tinkergnome firmware journey using the power of the search function. It looks really good, I think I will have to give it a go. Thanks again. Matt.
  10. Thanks for the reply, that reminds me I need to try your fan shroud :-) I'm using the UM2+. Is that custom firmware? I have not delved into that world yet! But it sounds good for what I want to do, I am really looking for repeatability here. Cheers, Matt.
  11. Hi all, I won't bore you with everything I've tried to get this material to print well, but I think it's down to bed height (PETG needs extra Z gap). The advice is to back the bed off in 0.02mm increments until you get the gap right. Can I do this through Cura rather than trying to do it with the thumb screws? If the material is apparently that sensitive to build plate height, then I feel like the best thing to do would be to level the build plate as per my normal method just once, and then adjust the gap in software rather than trying to turn 3 thumbscrews the same amount... I can't see
  12. Oh the other thing I would say as well is to make sure you add a nice bit of margin on the height of the cavity. For a 3mm thick nut for example, and 0.1 layers, I would make the cavity 3.2 mm tall. Better to be too big than too small. The first layer over the nut (or bolt head) will "fall" onto the metal, much like with support structure, so it won't actually be loose after the print. If the cavity is too small, the nozzle can hit the metal part, which is not good. Cheers, Matt.
  13. @SandervG - I totally blagged the idea from a socket set I have (I like rusty cars). @geert_2 - you've answered all the other questions brilliantly as usual. May I take this opportunity to say thank you for all the times you have helped me. Your posts always pop up whenever I search the forums! That thread about how to design your own support structure - I keep coming back to that time and time again as it has so much useful information. I am currently working on a simple prosthesis, for new amputees, which will combine the techniques discussed here to create a lockable hinge, and also th
  14. You're most welcome. The other thing I would say is don't go any smaller than an M4 (a good rule generally I find!). M3s (and smaller) are definitely more likely to deform the surrounding plastic to the point where the bolt will spin freely, rendering the thumbscrew useless. Cheers, Matt.
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