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Makosjarks

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  1. Lately I've had a problem with underextrusion on my UM2. Something was causing a lot of backpressure, i could hear the extruder skip or hop on occasion, but i was having trouble finding it. After experimenting with extrusion temperature, different rolls of filament, extrusion speed, cleaning bowden tubes and extruder gears and housing, changing nozzles, still underextruding. Changed heatblock and heater/thermocouple, still problem. Then I re-took the hotend apart and found this.. Some plastic had gotten between the I2K spacer and the base of the stainless steel bit and hardened producing a constriction. I must missed this when exhanging bits. In case someone else is running into the dark corners exploring under extrusion, here is one more stone to turn over : ) Mathias
  2. Hi Daid, Alright that is good news, if the capacitors are not that critical perhaps its better leave them. Spent part of the night looking up how to test faulty capacitors in circuit boards, how to solder SMDs, etc... only worked with through-hole electronics in my past. If it isn't broken, do not fix it ? Probably should follow that advice more often. I've installed the bondtech extruder, matchless V3 block, fans (because the the labern shroud I put on filled up with plastic on an overnight print gone wrong), etc so in the pursuit of better prints my UM2 has been through some changes. The white motor leads are just some short extension cables I had from another project...
  3. Thanks Nicolinux for the quick reply - brownish areas not worry about (Shannon did mention that was more common) - capacitors, welll, i guess it doesn't hurt to try and replace them if I manage to do it right, might make the board stop working all together if i mess it up... The machine runs now, just increasingly difficult to keep tuned and get clean looking prints... Thanks again, M
  4. Hello fellow Ultimaker enthusiasts, This week I was installing a new temperature probe and heater into my UM2. When I took the control board down, I noticed some brownish areas around the microsteppers (thanks Shannon at 3DVerkstan support for the info!). Also the capacitors at C60 and C64 appear to be burnt or scorched (small red circles) Anybody else seen this? Tried to repair it? If I look at the schematics on github, it looks like these are 4,7 uF capacitors, and my guess is that they are part of a voltage smoothing circuit. The reason I ask is the replacement board is quite pricey, and since the printer has been in fairly heavy usage since 2015, might make sense to put that money towards a replacement machine rather than a new board... Thank you for any comments or suggestions, M
  5. I also have been tracing this minor and variable under extrusion for a few months now on my UM2, and have started to rediscover several small fixes. Bowden tube was one... Switching bowden tube: I ordered PTFE tubing from several sources (ebay, E3D, amazon), including a new replacement one from the UM2 supplier webshop here in Sweden. I then took a meter long piece of PLA filament (fresh, no grind marks from the feeder wheel) and started to test, running the filament through while keeping the arch in the tubing as would be on the UM2 while in use. The differences in resistance were striking. Old UM2 tube (just 3mo old): This was my point of reference or baseline. The filament passed through with some resistance, not smooth but "hacky", where it would slide in slight spurts especially towards the ends where the tubes had been inserted into the feeder and hotend. New UM2 tube: Smoother slide, some resistance that increased the further the filament got into tube (no surprise). The E3D tube: this was a noticeable reduction in friction. The filament passed through with much less effort. The E3D tubing itself felt different on the outside, almost a little oily. Teflon can feel this way (new cutting boards and such), but in case there was some oil treatment done, I decided to retest the Old UM2 again: Old UM2 + drop of sewing machine oil on filament: I applied a single small drop of sewing oil to the tip of the filament and passed it through the old UM2 tube. Not a lot of difference the first pass. But when I ran the filament through a second time, there was a noticeable reduction in resistance. Almost, as easy to pass the filament through as the E3D tubing, but it did not get rid of the "hacky" movement. I guess I could hookup a gauge and measure the force, but maybe overkill for this... Difficult to quite the inner tinker scientist....
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