caleb

Would this work on the UMO+? What extra steps world be needed for it?

I was recently looking around and found this (cheaper Chinese version of the original reprapdiscount) Full Graphical Display Controller. I was just wondering if anyone has used / is using this controller. From what I understand, the only firmware mod necessary would be to change line 523 which is // #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER to #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER Would this be right? Also, would there be a way to change the startup photo to an Ultimaker logo? (I've seen photos but no source code for it) Thanks

I was recently looking around and found this (cheaper Chinese version of the original reprapdiscount) Full Graphical Display Controller. I was just wondering if anyone has used / is using this controller. From what I understand, the only firmware mod necessary would be to change line 523 which is // #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER to #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER Would this be right? Also, would there be a way to change the startup photo to an Ultimaker logo? (I've seen photos but no source code for the image) Thanks C

I haven't personally tried the polysupport, but I have used the poly-plus on my UMO+. It works really nicely. It could go toe to toe with Colorfabb if it wasn't translucent. I would definitely recommend them. And about EU shipping, I'd just email their customer support. They are very quick to reply. -Caleb

What speeds or temperatures or layer heights or flow rates (or combination of the four) have you had success with?

I built my printer about a month ago, and it has been having some pretty consistent under-extrusion. My settings so far have been: Layer Height 0.25 mm Shell Thickness 0.4 mm Bottom/Top Thickness 0.8 mm Speed 70 mm/s Flow Rate 110% Infill Speed 80 mm/s Top, bottom, outer, and inner shell speed 70 mm/s Temperature 220ºC Bed Temperature 70ºC I tried printing the V29 Whistle, and it has some layer gaps, and at the top, there is space between the lattice (pictures below). The whistle (needless to say), does not work. Have any of you experienced this? Thanks, Caleb

Hi- I put together my UMO+ last week, and I got a few good prints from it. Then, I changed the filament color and the big wooden "extrude" wheel isn't turning, I made the flowrate 150%, and the wheel is now turning very, very slowly with major underextrusion. I ran the printer without the wheel, and found the little black gear is turning just fine. Also- my kit shipped with one less washer and the Delrin clip broke. So, right now my printer is running with one washer and no clip. The knurled nut is far enough so that a portion of the depressed part of the nut is sticking out? Have any of you experienced this? Thanks- Caleb

Hi- I just built a UMO+, and I have been browsing throught the forums looking at mods for the printer. For those of you who have the model—which mods do you find most useful and how hard are they to put together with basic electrical engineering knowledge? Thanks-

Thanks a lot. A pulley was slipping, I toghtened it as well as the whole motor assembly. It wprked perfectly. Thanks, Caleb

What should I look for when I mark them? And also—which pulleys should I mark — the ones linked to the stepper motors or the ones linked to the shafts?

I read the guide and tightened the bolts, however the next print I tried ended up leaning as well Just with less consistency in the size of the leaning

Hello, I just finished putting together my UMO+, and I test printed the UM robot. When it started printing, the brim overlappped itself, and then it started leaning the print on the Y axis (towards the front), about 7mm per layer. Is this an easy fix? Thank you, Caleb