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I think you already nailed all the distinction between the 2 machine. The UM2+ is pretty good for those that want to mod machine, not sure how much you need the dual extrusion for dissolvable support but there are a few option. This option may not be for production environment but they're already pretty good. Speed is a relevant term in 3d printing, I dont do production runs but I do run long prints. Personally, speed for me is only one of the factors for the end result I wanted. If I need just representation model, I go fast but if I want accurate and nice looking print, I go slow. Even with access to dual printing I print models with single material and adapt the design to reduce support but access to dissovable give new dimension to what can be achieve both function and looks. It all depends on your company needs, but looking at your future expectation both machine seems to fit your bill just with some trade offs, tho I think S5 looks good as well for your company if the budget allows it ?

Agreed with @kmanstudios, which is why I mentioned you need to experiment. Thats how you will get your expected result. Those settings have been my go to start settings for 3 different printer. Full disclosure, 2 of them where on the 1.75mm filament. Out of 3, 1 was direct drive so i think you should be covered. First few tries will get you there so dont be discourage, mistakes are ok as long as you learn from them.

I like PET and CPE+ my my PET stock are MadeSolid PET+ when I run it on my UM3, I started with CPE+ black (which I also like to print just the smell gets to me) and changed a few things. temp is at 250 but prints well on 245degC with bed of 80-85 degC enclosed. preferred off fans for functional parts but 1-10% fan for making it look pretty. Also print at a lower speed @250 degC dont go over 40mm/s (to start with see if starts to skip steps or clogs/nozzle. I would start with that but you need to experiment with the settings as I am not sure of 3DJakes' PETG composition. I think UM2 should be able to handle it nicely but always check the couple they wear out fast at this temps and higher. Hope it helps.

You must be a calm person else batty will feel steamy/sauna if you hot headed....sorry couldnt resist. Well I think this is the best home for batty, he is literally in your head ? Like TMicke I also wonder whats in my head, must be bugs cause I cant seem to run effeciently

I think this is a good idea, with some recent issues with my 3rd party printcore, I couldnt print on the UM3 while I try to free up the jam core. A separate stand would be a good idea, more so to those multiple printer and mostly run continuously. I think it is very doable, some one already may have the code for this, there was a guy who made a sous vide annealing for PLA, the principle is the same just heat up the printcore heater and probe current temp. no need for a full code, PID would be nice to avoid overshoot. Unless you want to to automate the cold pull as well. On the business side, I am no expert but as a individual consumer, I might not buy this due to price. I might just DIY it as well (open source ftw) but businesses might buy it.

Oh my what a big....... ......space for batty inside ?

I have seen this happened, more than one occasion and on different printer. UM1, UM2 Clone (original UM2 heated bed and glass build plate), FF Dreamer but not yet on my UM3 (only 150hrs on it still very new). But this is just my personal experience not a general observation/consensus. Since I know this will eventually happen I just got use to putting PVA slurry, use the gr5 and/or kmanstudios method if possible to have a thin but almost evenly coat. This will have less uneven surface on the bottom print as well as less sticking too well (the glue and print). Not to mention the glass surface peeling is a really bad way to go specially when using PET type material and equivalent so a protective layer is more than welcome. Now as to why it happened, I stopped asking for the list of reasons as there are a ton of potential reason, model you are printing, duration of print, ambient, z offset (getting far off after sometime), PLA degrade over time and etc. It just happens for some reason but sometimes different from the previous. So rather than wasting plastic I invest on prevention. I did try buildtak, flex plate, tape but glue/PVA slurry is the easiest and cheapest to run not to mention it can last for a few prints specially if you move around the prints. Recently, I got to buy the UM adhesion sheet they are quite good as well but PVA slurry is good enough. each method will have its quirk just select which one is acceptable. Reading your "habits" on maintenance and printing procedure, stick with that but just as some preventive measure to reduce plastic waste and I think you're good. In fact reading your recent comment you have positive result with PVA slurry. Oh the enclosure is not a bad idea but i think not necessary, since you print mostly PLA. I do print 40++ hrs print with PLA with open printer just fine but note, I live in tropical climate, temp here fluctuates 24-35C between day and night so I dont have freezing temp.

With the Z stage, just add an extruder/nozzle and your back to 3d printer lol :D. Very interesting I've been wanting to build my on CNC but my wife dont want me to touch the side table in the kitchen. Clever name, quite catchy.....sounds like a pirate, parts were taken by pirate LimpyCNC from UM haha

Hmm I thought the A1332 is the EoL item. I guess unless someone actually make a custom board for the IC it wont be a good option. Anyway, impatiently ? waiting for the AMT encoder to see how things would work. Still hope someone would chime in on my query above about the pinout. I mean the worst I can do is switch them but would be nice to get the correct one and not burn the board.

Can someone correct me and help me confirm PINOUTS for Ultimainboard? First my assumption is this is i2C since 4pin, i2C and SPI seems to be interchanged on the other threads. SPI i think is better so 1 master but 4pin seem to indicate 5V, GND, SCL, SDA only. I hope not making an ASSoutUandME. I tried to trace the pins but I hit a dead end. from fabrc8 website I am thinking its this pinout but just assumption. I think the 5V and the GND is correct base on the PCB trace but not sure of SCL and SDA. Or I got this completely wrong. from UM GITHUB But R24 and C101 is just connected to one of the PT100, this is where I hit the dead end. I am hoping someone might have this pinout on hand else, I need to look more maybe a bit of coffee. ? PS: @foehnsturm I am still attempting to make the AMT103-V work I think I have the math just need to convert the signal to how A1355 works but on another thread Daid said that A1355 and new code on S5 (also in UM3) works well. Do you think this A1355 will be an alternative to you mod? The old sensor I think was AS5048B when this was in early stage of the UM3, maybe that's the unreliable one. Sorry for long post. EDIT: Confirmed its i2C from code // @brief Constructs a device driver for the Allegro A1335 contactless magnetic angle position sensor IC. // We access the A1335 over I2C. A total of 4 devices can be addressed (chip limitation) and every of those // devices needs its own instance of this driver. Now just the correct pinouts.

Kinda looks like your avatar kmanstudios just less hair ? Amazing looking forward to the painted version.

Thanks @Daid one of these days I will need to talk to you on getting the jedi-marlin code but I am waiting for the a new FW (in case its coming next month just speculating ? ). I think gr5 gave me the May version of marlin and thats what I am working on (crossing fingers).

If I can have access, probably we can just 3D print it. I got a adapter print to attached the polybox bowden to the extruder. It can easily be adapted to hold the sensor. But dont know where to buy it. And schematic wont be available any time soon unless you already have it ? btw @Daid have mentioned i think on his Day4 Thread for the UM3 is that only the remains of the code are their but the main issue was mechanical. Tho I hope they dont re-purpose the port to the temp sensor they planned to measure room temp. Or maybe I misunderstood that part ? Getting hands dirty is part of everything if you involve your self to 3d printers IMO ? EDIT: Is the S5 sensor base on AS5048B or A1335? or neither? I mean they are Hall-Effect sensor but just curious. Thos I think foehnsturm solution will be better in reliabilty.

I would love that there would be a direct plugin to our UM3 but considering the S5 is not using the ultiboard 9correct me if I am wrong). It could be processing power that is preventing efficient way of implementing it in UM3. I could be wrong so really an official word would be nice. For now, I need a kick on the back to start working on my code to use foehnsturm sensor on UM3. It would be nice if I actually have good coding skills ?

As you may have already read on the forum/community Ultimaker dont give parts list and BOM till 1yr of release. Also I dont remember any distributor/reseller selling this part separately so we wont know at this time. However, there are those who have both S5 and UM3 maybe they can test. But considering that S5 have a different board I dont think it will be optimized for use in UM3. There is also what UM3 team mentioned that they did not find its reliability up to standard which could me that if they were indeed developed in parallel and if they have the same sensor then you will have more headache than the benefit of runout sensor. One thing is for certain, the implementation needs to be reviewed but its not in UM radar to implement it. I could be wrong and I hope @SandervG or other UM team can comment on it.

Thanks for sharing, looks amazing. Looking forward on those weird printing stuff and post processing. I still cant get over Batty ? Now I wish I have an S5 ?

That can be a bit frustrating. But increasing temp 260C at that low speed of 30mm/s could potentially cause heat creep like @kmanstudios mentioned. But if Printing at 210-220C with 40-60mm/s still causes jams for HTPLA then something is not right, not to mentioned swapping cores also present the same problem. Does the extruder skip steps every now and then before it finally jams or its completely fine until if stops with jam? I am not suppose to say it but that isolates to the material or there is something wrong with your UM3 but highly unlikely considering you print PLA just fine. I could be wrong tho I am no expert. I wish I have those material and test for you. Maybe other members can chime in. If no other reply try to reach out to support and point to this thread. I really hope you can sort this one out, I can feel your pain. (I've had similar experience and its not a pleasant one for me nor the printer ? ) EDIT: I am not sure if UM Support can help on 3rd party material but I hope they point you on the right direction. Please let us know. Its like a fish-bone stuck in my throat, cant get it off and not even the one that have the issue.

Heat creep seems to be culprit thats why I ask also if printing HTPLA at 210-220 at 40-60mm/s will cause jam, as it might indicate the problem elsewhere. I too would like to know but more that I hope he managed to good print with a good printer such as UM3. Tho I will not say its perfect, we just all learn what makes our printer tick.

I have 0 derlin experience printing it and only use them for bushing and spacers ? they seem to be slippery than most material. Anyway for the adhesion sheet, I too had that bubble issue but I found the wet or soapy water method works but only if you squeeze all the water out. Else the water will evaporate and cause bubbles even at 60C more so on a 95C. Basically I wet the glass with soapy water then squeeze like crazy with the blue rubber tool. Since then I never had bubbles on the adhesion sheet, CPE+ likes it a lot so I live it there even printing PLA. As for buildtak and similar I used them before but found that they dont like other material like PET and CPE to be more precise they like each other so much they dont want to separate :D. Interesting Derlin project would love to hear more about that.

Hi and welcome to the forum. First off lets be clear I am not from Ultimaker team. Anyway, lets also correct what you mentioned, Ultimaker had a filament runOut Sensor on UM3 but as @SandervG said they found that its reliability is not up to their standard and scrapped that idea for UM3. Community is more than welcome to reuse the existing cable on the extruder as it is still there. Got my UM3 a month ago and found that cable to still exist. Anyway, @foehnsturm started a thread To work on a filament flow sensor (and possibly runOut sensor) for UM2 and hoping maybe for UM3. But this is nowhere finish, I myself am attempting to see if I can recycle the existing code for the UM3 to use foehnsturm sensor. But I do this for a hobby and have a day job as well as kids so it might take me some time.

I havent use HTPLA so take it with a grain of salt. I have checked proto pasta and they are recommending HTPLA to print between 200-250C and 250C is just for better layer bonding, why go with 260C? just curious. Does printing proto pasta with 210-220C and 40-60 Speed cause jams as well? I know you are an expert but we are just trying to understand why its causing problems. I have tried different PLA and depending on what additive my print settings will change as it will jam or under-extrudes. The PLA of UM also under extrudes with extreme settings such as 195C @ 80mm/s. Basically what I am saying (but you may already have done it) is that you may try to dial in the settings for specifics filament specially 3rd party. If already done then there might be a problem on the nozzle. oh almost forgot, the tension spring at the extruder also helps, my RS Online Glow in the dark PLA filament dont like tight tension and causes jam at any temperature/speed. Print well with like 1mm gap on the indicator.

IMHO I dont think UM will release an official HEPA filter. For one there are multiple warnings in there material datasheet and how to use the printer like proper ventilation. Second there are alternative enclosure that have it but to be honest most HEPA filter accessible to consumers are not rated for UFPs, maybe some material with lower particles/cm3 but ABS is pretty up high in the scale. As an end user you are free to use what you think works for you with the variety of aftermarket and the DIY community. Having said that I personally have a 3rd party enclosure with HEPA filter for my UM3 but in no way I think thats its enough, I still follow all the precaution given by UM but sometimes I still fail to follow specially printing in the same room ? I make sure its pretty ventilated. Tho I seldom print ABS or Nylon. I also have another printer that semi-enclosed but air is exhaust at the back.

I have printed a few items both downloaded and my own design. Have you tried Robert's Dust Filter I have printed this in a FF Dreamer and a UM2 Clone. I am planning on printing a similar item but 2 colors on UM3 tho i havent decided on what to print (more like I am lazy of design at this time ? ). The key problem here is tolerance and clearance for printers are different. My FF requires around 0.10 - 0.15mm clearance per side that has contact for a circle it will be diameter + 2 x Clearance. For a UM I only need 1x of the clearance.

I dont have ESUN PETG but I print with CPE and PET+ and I run them at 245C and around 50mm/s on a UM3 and I dont have under extrusion. Even the CPE+ black from UM also prints well at 245-250C. This might be lame but have you tried increasing temp and decreasing speed?

Checking AMT103-V and A1335 have different resolution and the wheel diameter used by @foehnstrum compared to the default. I found it on marlin side of things which I am not sure yet if it can be overwritten in the python side. Need to dig deep I need Unix VM to make digging easier. If changes can only be made in the marlin side then it may be trickier to do it. As creating the driver is a lot better than reusing and overwriting all parameters. Correct me if I'm wrong. thanks @gr5 for the codes.