derbroti

This one is better After a little more inspection: the part is still too wide: so I have nearly no up and down rocking but I can rock it left to right (that's why my joke is so "bend" to the side when I feed filament into it (I hope it is understandable what I try to say) By the way: I think the edge of the mating part (the arm) is not flat (on the side that was related to the up-down rocking issue), so it can still rock a tiny bit up and down (during retractions) - that needs further inspection. However, when printing the new joke I had a weird underextrusion problem - I have to look into that before printing again. Actually my spring is too soft - I had a short one laying around from my hardware store, because my bolts are too short for either the original UM2 feeder spring and the 2+ spring... see: the darker short one is the one I am using. The other is the original UM2 feeder spring.

It took way too long (life came in the way) but I printed 3 calibration cubes (10,15,20mm) and all of them were spot on (highest deviation was 0.04mm)

Thanks! I will do the same - let's see

Interestingly: the channel for the PTFE tube is a tight and precise fit - that's why I ruled out my printer as the issue.

I finally managed to print your feeder @neotko It is pretty nifty - I have just a few minor things - that hopefully are not related to my printer: first: the nut holes for the screws that connect front and back are way too big for me. second: the bearing "hole" is also too big: my bearings from the UM2+ feeder are not tightly in your feeder. and, which is a bit more critical: The hands have too much room to rock up and down during retracts. and lastly: for me (I use a quite short soft spring) the hands are "bend" to the outside when I tighten the spring even a little. -> The spring presses in the middle but the opposing force comes from one side of the hands: You know what I mean? Pictures: My clamps: open: closed: the "rocking"

Haha, your math sounds promising - so, I will give it a try

Thanks! Haven't had time to print it yet, but soon will. One question however: the Bondtech gear size is slightly different in diameter than my current UM2+ feeder knurled wheel - this should result in a slightly different E-step value right? I mean it will only be a minor difference but it is worth to recalibrate, right?

Hi, ich habe ein Mean Well GS220A24-R7B abzugeben. Ist vollständig in Ordnung und knapp über ein Jahr alt. Das Kaltgerätekabel möchte ich behalten (hab mir die 280W Variante als Ersatz gekauft und da war keins dabei...). Preislich würde ich so 70 Euro sagen - oder macht mir ein Angebot - Versand innerhalb Deutschlands würde ich bezahlen.

Thanks No problem, take your time!

Thanks! @neotko As Robert gave his ok, can I kindly ask again for the file?

The problem is that I am currently "blessed" with onshape - which can not import STLs in a reasonable way. Basically something like this - super simple clamping hooks: (probably with a steeper hook angle, and further apart or 3 instead of 2, but you get the idea ) onshape document Thinking about it - maybe the other way around - so the opening is facing the printer wall - then the cable is definitively fixated... Great :)my bondtech stuff should arrive soon, so I can try it out. Good to know and yay - thanks!

As I said, I am interested in just one single file of the feeder, but I understand, so if @IRobertI gives his ok? (Will he get a notification when mentioned with @ ?) Worst case, I have to redo the measurements myself

Nice one You say "using 6-3mm classic UM bowden" - just to make sure: you designed it with the 1/4" (6.35mm) OD bowden in mind, right? not plain 6.00mm? And would you be so kind to release the design file for "Um2plusbondtech Holder" - I would like to add clips/brackets (not sure how to call them correctly) to get the black cable nicely tucked away - because messing around with STL files is annoying. thanks!

Granted, low a wattage heater and a poorly tuned PID can result in problems but when upgrading you should of course invest in a 35w heater I will have a look if I see any artefacts on my prints. But for your example: I get the point but that looks too bad to be just the fans blowing on the hotend. I mean my more exposed hotend is hit constantly with more air, so the PID should have an easy time to regulate.

What is the problem there? I use the metal spacer and the wafer and it fits nicely.