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derbroti

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Posts posted by derbroti

  1. Try this

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/s9x2a8e0wett1kh/Joke-Fix-test.stl?dl=0

    I'm 99% sure that should fix the issue. I left way too much play so it can swift.

     

    This one is better :)

    After a little more inspection: the part is still too wide: so I have nearly no up and down rocking but I can rock it left to right (that's why my joke is so "bend" to the side when I feed filament into it (I hope it is understandable what I try to say)

    By the way: I think the edge of the mating part (the arm) is not flat (on the side that was related to the up-down rocking issue), so it can still rock a tiny bit up and down (during retractions) - that needs further inspection.

    However, when printing the new joke I had a weird underextrusion problem - I have to look into that before printing again.

     

    [...] if you use a spring too strong, that also could explain why your dances too much [...]

     

    Actually my spring is too soft - I had a short one laying around from my hardware store, because my bolts are too short for either the original UM2 feeder spring and the 2+ spring...

    see: IMG_3400.thumb.jpg.a7a09b0d6a849f3814810d7e9d5ca91a.jpg

    the darker short one is the one I am using. The other is the original UM2 feeder spring.

    IMG_3400.thumb.jpg.a7a09b0d6a849f3814810d7e9d5ca91a.jpg

  2. I finally managed to print your feeder @neotko :)

    It is pretty nifty - I have just a few minor things - that hopefully are not related to my printer:

    first: the nut holes for the screws that connect front and back are way too big for me.

    second: the bearing "hole" is also too big: my bearings from the UM2+ feeder are not tightly in your feeder.

    and, which is a bit more critical: The hands have too much room to rock up and down during retracts.

    and lastly: for me (I use a quite short soft spring) the hands are "bend" to the outside when I tighten the spring even a little. -> The spring presses in the middle but the opposing force comes from one side of the hands: You know what I mean?

    Pictures:

    My clamps:

    IMG_3283.thumb.jpg.46f7cce0f7f2a1e7a586e6014de25f3b.jpg

    IMG_3282.thumb.jpg.0d11aa5777c6ba3b574c46eb80a80d20.jpg

    open:

    IMG_3277.thumb.jpg.bc3061664711ad0c8e6d0b1e9f99802b.jpg

    closed:

    IMG_3278.thumb.jpg.fd1eee54c4eed44f4a0df34b2ee43bdd.jpg

    the "rocking"

     

    IMG_3283.thumb.jpg.46f7cce0f7f2a1e7a586e6014de25f3b.jpg

    IMG_3282.thumb.jpg.0d11aa5777c6ba3b574c46eb80a80d20.jpg

    IMG_3277.thumb.jpg.bc3061664711ad0c8e6d0b1e9f99802b.jpg

    IMG_3278.thumb.jpg.fd1eee54c4eed44f4a0df34b2ee43bdd.jpg

  3. Hi,

    ich habe ein Mean Well GS220A24-R7B abzugeben. Ist vollständig in Ordnung und knapp über ein Jahr alt. Das Kaltgerätekabel möchte ich behalten (hab mir die 280W Variante als Ersatz gekauft und da war keins dabei...).

    Preislich würde ich so 70 Euro sagen - oder macht mir ein Angebot :) - Versand innerhalb Deutschlands würde ich bezahlen.

    IMG_3244.thumb.jpg.5130371e5b3c4350cbc22c74e523f7db.jpgIMG_3251.thumb.jpg.a78338d665ac1dbc1c47b5e1a5f11876.jpgIMG_3245.thumb.jpg.f03dd84ab962523f76a89195504d91f6.jpgIMG_3250.thumb.jpg.039428c67316f9ebf473829ec7f3af58.jpg

    IMG_3244.thumb.jpg.5130371e5b3c4350cbc22c74e523f7db.jpg

    IMG_3251.thumb.jpg.a78338d665ac1dbc1c47b5e1a5f11876.jpg

    IMG_3245.thumb.jpg.f03dd84ab962523f76a89195504d91f6.jpg

    IMG_3250.thumb.jpg.039428c67316f9ebf473829ec7f3af58.jpg

  4. But to add stuff you don't really need the step file? Send me the design you want to add and I'll give it ago.

    The problem is that I am currently "blessed" with onshape - which can not import STLs in a reasonable way.

    Basically something like this - super simple clamping hooks: (probably with a steeper hook angle, and further apart or 3 instead of 2, but you get the idea ;)) IMG_3239.thumb.jpg.3050fe1c3d9bb0aa859b4540eeab1378.jpg

    onshape document

    Thinking about it - maybe the other way around - so the opening is facing the printer wall - then the cable is definitively fixated...

    In theory since I used the IRobertI measurements for the bowden, it should work with um2/um2+ standard bowdens.

    Great :)my bondtech stuff should arrive soon, so I can try it out.

    Yes,  he does get a notification :)It's OK with me. I really should put the steps up on the site. I'll see if I can remember to do that tomorrow.

    Good to know and yay - thanks!

  5. It should work I think. I can't release the files, many of the parts and measurements come from the @IRobertI feeder. So the step files ain't just mine to release

    As I said, I am interested in just one single file of the feeder, but I understand, so if @IRobertI gives his ok? (Will he get a notification when mentioned with @ ?) Worst case, I have to redo the measurements myself :)

  6. Nice one :)

    You say "using 6-3mm classic UM bowden" - just to make sure: you designed it with the 1/4" (6.35mm) OD bowden in mind, right? not plain 6.00mm?

    And would you be so kind to release the design file for "Um2plusbondtech Holder" - I would like to add clips/brackets (not sure how to call them correctly) to get the black cable nicely tucked away - because messing around with STL files is annoying.

    thanks!

  7. Granted, low a wattage heater and a poorly tuned PID can result in problems but when upgrading you should of course invest in a 35w heater ;)

    I will have a look if I see any artefacts on my prints.

    But for your example: I get the point but that looks too bad to be just the fans blowing on the hotend. I mean my more exposed hotend is hit constantly with more air, so the PID should have an easy time to regulate.

  8. Hi,

    quick question: is the head fan supposed to spin during the auto tune procedure?

    Mine is not... and as soon as I cancel the auto tune run the fan starts spinning.

    I am running an UM2 with 2.1.4 board, so the fan is pwm controlled.

    And indeed, when I look at the code, manage_heater() is never called during the for(; ; ) loop of the auto tune...

    Cheers

  9. "schmelzen ganz leicht das PLA an"

    Kannst du das beobachten? Ich hab mir Acrifix 116 gekauft und nichts... null anlösen und Klebekraft ist mäßig - ich konnte nur beobachten, dass mein PLA danach super brüchig wurde - muss das aber noch mal testen.

    Hast du auch 116 verwendet - oder die eher gängige Variante: Acrifix 192?

    In anderen Foren hatte ich von wahnsinnig guten Erfolgen mit Acrifix 116 gelesen und nur mäßigen mit UHU.

    Wie groß waren deine Klebeflächen beim testen?

    Glatte Oberflächen? -> Vorher bearbeitet?

  10. On mainboard rev. 2.1.4 it is controlled via a transistor connected to the atmega pin PJ6 (integrated in the circuit).

    On rev. 2.1.1 it is directly connected to 5v without any way to control it.

    If you have the old revision and if you are keen on modifying the firmware and a little soldering you can buy a BC817, a 1k resistor and a diode (a small 1n4148 or similar will do), and build a little pin driver (just like the one for the cooling fans and LED stripes) and move the fan ground to the transistor and connect everything (for easy access) to pin 3 of the EXP3 header (which is the atmega PB7 pin, which is PWM capable).

    You should not directly connect the fan to PB7 as it would exceed the power delivery capabilities of that pin (the fan can easily draw 100mA which is way to much for any atmega pin).

  11. Hard to say, maybe it was just a hickup - have you recopied the file? or just pushed print again?

    The problem with such complex machines is: if you can not reproduce the error you have pretty much lost at that point :(

    I would keep an eye on that SD card - or maybe really use another one if possible and if it then happens again you know it is not the card but something different.

  12. Pictures? - I have a video! :D

    It is the knurled wheel - I removed the idler wheel + lever ;)

    So you can see, that I can move the knurled wheel by just moving the filament (which I tried to straighten as best as I could) - if i hold it tight, as it would be from the stepper I can scratch it - if you crank up the volume a bit you can hear it in the end.

    As my filament is normally curved, bowing to the right when it comes from the roll - it would press even harder onto the knurled wheel.

     

    (It is a public but unlisted video, I hope that works)

    So overall it is no deal breaker (for me) and as far as I see it not "solvable" in this iteration but I wanted to mention it.

  13. Hi,

    ok coming from the extrusion upgrade thread, here more details about my scratching problem:

    scratch.thumb.png.31aa73799de33a15e3a8f61acc6e2afc.png

    When looking into the feeder from the top hole (where the bowden tube goes in ;) ) I can see that the knurled wheel is in the path of the filament. This basically makes the hole D shaped like the left straight side that should be round is occupied by the wheel (I will make a picture later, the printer is currently running).

    So, even when the tension wheel is fully out of the way my filament gets scratched by the wheel.

    Maybe mine is slightly too large?!

    I measured my filament and it is in spec (2.82-2.85 but never over that).

    I noticed that before taking it apart - and the knurled wheel is completely fixed in its position so it can not have moved by accident.

    Are there specs for the knurled wheel so I could measure it and compare? Or does mine have too sharp teeth?!

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!

    scratch.thumb.png.31aa73799de33a15e3a8f61acc6e2afc.png

  14. This looks excatly like my problem: 21252-weird-axis-movement-mid-print

    The problem was a broken SD card.

    It would explain the out of printarea error as the wrongly read gcode would make the printer move outside the build area.

    Can you try a different one as well?

    Just read you already swapped it - maybe the new one is just faulty?

    Do you have by chance a third one?

    Are you using a micro-sd to sd adapter? maybe that one is faulty (bad contacts).

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