Jump to content

ansonl

Member
  • Posts

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by ansonl

  1. Standby temp of 170-180 works for me. I found a good nozzle heat up and cooldown rate that I put in the DXUv2 cura profile on GitHub that will minimize the time waiting to heat using curas predictive heating in advance.
  2. You use retract the filament extra when switching away from a tool. A nozzle switch retraction distance of 16mm and 20mm/s eliminates ooze for me. And also using the ooze shield in the slicer.
  3. Looks good, did you try the dual color benchy that has only gunwhale and edges in a different color for a challenge?
  4. @LouDFPV Good to hear! How is the dual extrusion working for your prints so far?
  5. The issue was due to a implicit type conversion in the Ultimaker firmware. My write up can be found at https://ansonliu.com/2024/03/ultimaker-gcode-footprint-halt/
  6. When adding the Ultimaker header to a gcode file so the Ultimaker S printer will let you print gcode files sliced in another slicer, the GENERATOR.VERSION needs to be of the format X.X.X When the GENERATOR.VERSION is missing the third version number like 1.0 vs 1.0.1, the printer will home and error with ER999 which only lets you reboot the printer to continue using it. GENERATOR.VERSION:2.2.2 <- good GENERATOR.VERSION:2.1 <- bad I needed to slice a manifold model with PrusaSlicer that the latest versions of Cura had an error on and created a working profile for the Ultimaker S line printer. I was able to use the linked post to get some information on the newer Ultimaker's expected format but it would be great if the Ultimaker Griffin gcode format and header had more up to date documentation. I did not see a way to report a bug with the Ultimaker printer firmware/software itself so I hope that Ultimaker team sees it here. I tested this GENERATOR.VERSION bug on an Ultimaker S3 (3?) and S7 and both printers had the same issue and solution.
  7. @LouDFPV I just updated the github with my toolchange gcode at https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/blob/master/Firmware/README.md https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/blob/master/AL-DXUv2/Cura configuration/README.md
  8. Thanks to https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/18319, it seems like I forgot to set the horizontal expansion for the second extruder to 0 as well. The drawback of this method is that you can no longer compensate for elephant's foot that only affects the exterior edges of a print due to the horizontal expansion affecting each part and not taking into account inner interlocking objects' edges that are within a close threshold (e.g. 0.001mm) of each other.
  9. See my photos of the switching lever mount on both my UMO+ and UM2 frames. The files for both mount styles are in the GitHub. The closed um2 frame needs holes to be drilled in the side and the location of the holes can be determined with the exterior mount piece.
  10. Do you have an open side hole on right like the UNO+ or closed right side panel on UM2?
  11. You need to mount your y endstop either to the back of the printer like the UM2+ has it. Or if it's in the same location as the UMO+, move the y endstop at the front towards the rear by a few mm. I relocated the y endstop on my UMO+ to the back like the UM2+ has it. The default UM2+ y endstop position should work.
  12. UM2DD_Dual_Extruder_Calibration__Target_B_v2.3mf I looked back at some of my other prints and the first layer gap appears on all of them to some. I attached a much smaller example that slices faster to show the issue. As seen below, between the outside calibration parts, there is a gap inserted when you set one of the objects to a second extruder.
  13. Yes, my printer is a modified UM2. If you set the printer and profile to Ultimaker 2 or a newer Ultimaker, the same issue presents itself. I tried have tried to set the expansion to positive and negative but it seems to make no difference. If it is set to positive, it also makes the model edges wider on the first layer which is undesirable since the edges of different models fit together like a puzzle piece.
  14. The clone um2.5 print cartridge fits 1.75mm as shipped? And the real um3 cartridge is for 2.85mm?
  15. @Slashee_the_Cow I tried the tolerance setting but it seems to make no difference. Just to clarify, I want there to be no spacing in between the two objects so thought inclusive might work too, but it doesn't. I saved and uploaded the project attached. CA-sample.3mf
  16. Hi, when I slice a 3MF model with 2 objects that interlock, the initial layer has extra spacing between the models that I haven't found a setting to reduce. The extra spacing in the initial layer makes too thin island segments that don't adhere well to the bed. The objects are interlocking so there should be no space between the models which is correct on all other layers. When I preview the gcode and view the second layer, the extra spacing is gone and all the printed edges of the objects line up as they should. I'm using a 0.4mm nozzle with 0.1mm layer height and 0.3mm initial layer height. I tried reducing the horizontal expansion and initial horizontal expansion to 0 but it makes no difference. I am using Cura 5.4 due to the gcode setting bug in the newer version but this spacing problem happens in both. I have attached my Cura project at the bottom. The model file before slicing. Both models are aligned in a single 3MF file and are manifold. The initial layer in the preview has extra space between the objects and the second layer to the right with no extra spacing. UM2_CA.3mf
  17. Wow, really cool that they seem to have created a PCB adapter for the UM2 electronics to be linked to the UM3 printhead and the nozzle cartridge. I wish that was available a few years ago. I can't tell if the nozzle cartridges are usable with the UM3 or if they are custom made to only be used with their UM2.5 custom adapter from the pictures. I took some pictures of the 24V 35W heater cartridges that I had previously made for the DXU. The heaters have strain relief at the 90 degree bend and the unheated rear portion is slightly longer to avoid the heater wires touching the back of the hotend cooling fan. The strain relief help reduce the wear and tear that is normally put on the heater wires that you would previously bend to 90 degrees to insert the cartridge into the Olsson style heat block. It's mainly for the second extruder that encounters the up and down movement but I've used it on both sides myself. I have a couple of spares cartridges that I can send (DM me) for a fee if anyone else is doing the DXU build in the future.
  18. You could drill out the top coupler holder to let a 2.85m filament through and find a thin enough ptfe tube that fits in the pipe but is also 3mm ID. Someone mentioned that they modified the parts earlier in this thread for 2.85mm.
  19. Sand down the threads at the tip of the moving heater block screw so that the top portion of the screw moves freely in the hole in the bottom plate. If it doesn't move freely enough, you can drill out the threads in the threaded hole in the bottom plate that the moving heater block screw would go into. Your setup looks good!
  20. Hi, Does the Cura Plugin Marketplace support distribution of Post Processing scripts as plugins? I signed up on contributor.ultimaker.com and it has an option to upload a plugin archive but it doesn't provide much more info. Right now users need to manually move any nondefault Post Processing scripts between Cura version directories and I was wondering if there is a method for users to discover and install post processing scripts similar to Plugins right now.
  21. The encoder output is not being read. I would check to make sure that the encoder S_E1 and S_E2 on the ulticontroller and my schematic is passing current.
  22. The screen uses I2C and the encoder, button, and beep have their own pins in the connector. I2C may not be connected properly or powered with 3.3V. Most controller boards only have 5V on the EXP pins so you need to splice a 3.3V pin in to the connector specifically to power the screen. My full schematic for my breakout board I made to connect my ULTICONTROLLER to BTT Octopus Pro is here for reference https://github.com/ansonl/DXU/blob/master/ulticontroller-i2c-breakout/25APR23-schematic.pdf
  23. The ultimaker controller board is out atmega2560ext can handle input shaping fine. I have the old board in a UMO+ with DXU as well and it doesnt have any issues when IS is enabled. Running Marlin current bugfix as of beginning of June. Marlin 2.1.2 and previous had a separate issue that resulted in motor skip and bad IS for AVR that ultimaker board uses. I had to reduce the tx buffer size to one or zero to stop skipped when printing over serial as well. I’m not sure if tx rx adjustment is still needed. I would recommend trying out the current bugfix branch of Marlin and seeing if it works. I forgot to mention in my last post, Marlin now has the option to dynamically offset toolchange gcode so that toolchange gcode can be configured in the same hotend offset “context” (always T0 if enabled) and hotend offsets between nozzles can be adjusted via the UI menu in addition to M218 command.
  24. @Garufa I upgraded a UM2 to BTT Octopus Pro combined with the improved DXU design and Marlin 2. I modeled the metal hotend holder modifications needed and had the aluminum parts SLM printed and top nylon parts SLS printed. All custom parts and Marlin firmware instructions mentioned here are now uploaded to https://github.com/ansonl/DXU The result is very reliable after some work and needs minimal post-processing to get the lever to move. I actually ended up only using the middle SLS nylon part and using my own printed top and bottom plastic parts in PC because the SLS printed top and bottom were a bit loose around the bearing but this could be fixed with some rubber spacers to make it "thicker". I also used the UM2 fan shroud design by Labern but the normal UM2 fan shroud works fine too. The UM2 fan shroud is actually slightly smaller in footprint and thinner material makes it much easier to attach to printhead but I already spent the money to get the Labern shroud SLM printed in the same order... Ulticontroller I2C breakout and adapter board that I created to make Ulticontroller LCD display compatible with most 3rd party controller boards. Most controller boards don't use I2C connection for the LCD so the I2C needs to be rerouted from elsewhere on the board to the right pins in the ribbon cable. Needed to order a second pair of ribbon cables to pass through the adapter board. SD card, encoder, button, and buzzer are functional as well. I ran into an SPI communication issue with the Octopus Pro that prevented me from using the SD card reader at the same time as the second MAX31865 PT100 amplifier which also uses SPI 😞 UM2/2+ case routing and management. I modeled some 3D parts to accommodate the increased height of the new motherboard and organize the wiring. The metal UM2 motherboard cover can't be used anymore so I had to make a new motherboard cover and riser/border to mount it. A 3D printed cable trench is used for cable routing. The new motherboard cover uses most of the original holes on the case and rests on the cable trench carrying the printer with your fingers around the bottom side edges is safer. A INA826 amplifier board for PT100/PT1000 amplification is needed for the bed temp sensor since most 3rd party controller boards don't have multiple built in amplifiers like the Ultimainboard. The Ultimainboard uses 3 INA826 amplifiers and Triangle Lab sells a similar expansion board on Aliexpress. Marlin doesn't support MAX31865 amplifier for bed header so an off-motherboard amplifier is needed for bed PT100. Octopus Pro has 1 built in MAX31865 and I used 1 additional MAX31865 that fits into the stepper driver slot. SPI issue mentioned earlier means SD card reader can't be used but I added a ESP32 loaded with ESP3D firmware to the Octopus Pro so a usb cable isn't needed for remote printing. Temp sensor cables need the MOLEX KK ends changed to JST-XH. Some of the cables are shorter than ideal but they will barely reach. Bed heater power cables need to be modified to have eyelet ends to fit into screw-on terminals on Octopus Pro. I mounted a LRS-350-24 PSU on the opposite side of the underbody. Controller board cover put on Controller board cooling fan mounted UM2 rear view showing 2 UM2+ feeders, custom rear panel mount with IEC power connector switch and USB socket. No more wiggling the power connector risking damage to the controller board! The printer is very quiet even at high speeds (300mm/s and 9000mm/s^2). Unlike the noisy original UM2 motors, if you don't look at the printer, you wouldn't know whether it is printing or not! The loudest parts of the printer are the high speed part cooling fan and PSU fan and they aren't noticeable in a cabinet enclosure that I have the printer in. Marlin 2 input shaping works and the firmware is stable. I have some firmware tips on the DXU repo linked above but need to add my config in the future.
×
×
  • Create New...