Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Ronan

  1. As stated we are using Cura 2.4 and the ooze tower is on by default (its now hollow). We only use UM materials, they give the best results (by far). Will try it! Thanks!
  2. We own 4 UM3's and this is a occuring issue on all of them. When printing a tall PLA/PVA print, the ooze tower will often BREAK on the bottom (around half a dozen layers) and then topple over. Most of the time the prints are near completion (our average prints are 2 days long), but this creates issues with finishing, pva support not being properly put, etc. Yes we upgraded to the latest firmware and we saw an improvement (with the new 'hollow' ooze tower) but the issue still happens. Sometimes it gets unstuck and falls over, but more often than not, it actually breaks on the bottom and then falls over (usually on a PVA layer). We are using default settings, normal quality. When everything works, it rivals are bigger more expensive machines, but when this happens urgh... more post processing work in finishing the prints, and often means painting them to cover the bandages... This happens with bare hot bed and with a PVA solution (white glue) applied thinly for a stronger adhesion. Please advise.
  3. Oh wow! Keep us updated on this issue. We now have a few UM3's as our main 3d printers since they are cheaper to run than the stratasys.
  4. I haven't used Brim.. I just make sure the horizontal expansion for support is at least 3MM.. that should fix all possible issues.. It doesn't. I had a print fail with those settings. A long print too..edges lifted where it was pva supports, it skewed the print and messed it up. That's why i went back to the default brim settings.
  5. The brim is actually printed out of PLA every time (aka core 1 material). That's the default setting on my cura.
  6. I Got A 43 hour and 31 hour long dual core prints done. Flawless. Word of advise, leave the brim on when printing pla/pva, it helps to stabilize edges quite a lot. I use 4mm brim.
  7. We printed a few bicycles for a customer's branding using the carbon reinforced material by colorfabb. We printed the joints with that, used carbon oval tubes to join the joints and then used off the shelve bicycle parts for the rest. Came out great once a lacquer finish was applied and some graphics. As for strength, it's not comparable to real carbon fiber parts. It's more gimicky, but does provide some more strength. PLA has no swelling or anything from moisture. I have tested it by leaving parts in water for DAYS, and it did NOTHING to the PLA.
  8. UM3 is great. Software needs some tweaking, but that should come soon.
  9. Yepp and a lot more. It adds 2x-3x more time. My 10 hour long prints are now 25-30 hours. Business takes a hit when it's that slow, but parts need zero post processing work. Artists are coming to me to have their models 3d printed in one go, much cheaper than the competition or traditional methods. It's very, very, slow though. Edit: I should add that we print at 0.1 resolution for our customers, most of the time. It gives a really nice finish. 0.15 is tempting because it takes a good chunk less time, but have not tested it. On 2+ 0.15 was to similar to out competitions quality (we strive for higher quality prints, cheaper).
  10. Version 1.0


    Test print for a new setup for our UM3's.
  11. Got 2 UM3's in the closet with a thick dampening blanket covering the door. 2x 15 hour prints came out perfect. Now finishing a 40+ hour long print, which i checked an hour ago, and was perfect. So i think that solves the issue :)And i get a bit more peace and quiet Somua tank (French WWII tank) was the test print: Edit: Does PVA play nice with colorfabb PLA/PHA?
  12. Looks like he has been waiting a few days. During normal business hours, it's normal to receive a response the same day, or the next day (that excludes weekends of course). If a reseller can't do that... well i see no reason why they should have my money. That's how i run my business, and i think it's a bare minimum for customer/business relationship.
  13. Make sure to report everything. So others don't have to deal with a reseller that only wants to sell.
  14. SLS printers. You get the finest resolution, some are even color. Our Objet500 blows anything else out of the water. But there's a price to pay. Seriously... it's insanely expensive As for traditional FFF printers, i say something like the Ultimaker's. Combination of high quality parts, enclosed system, it all adds up at the end.
  15. Id send it back if its not 'perfect'. Talk to the people where you purchased it. We ordered 4, all 4 were perfect. I would not settle for less at that price.
  16. Iv printed with the UM2+ in a closed chamber with zero issues. So i was quite shocked this morning when i saw the print. Hopefully this works out. Plenty of space for the printer to 'breath' and the blanket is just covering the door.
  17. That would suck... really bad. So how come a hood/door works but once i put a sound dampening blanket on top (and not even tucked in or anything) causes this issue? What about people putting them in cupboards and what not? Edit: Trying something different, printer goes in a spare closet, blanket goes over the closed door. Reduces noise quite a lot, i can fit about 3-4 printers in it (But will only put 1-2). Do you think overheating will still be an issue? The closet is 3 feet deep, 8 feet high, and 4-5 feet long. @IRobertI
  18. Redid a print that came out perfect. Only variable is a sound ampening blanket over the printer (printer has a hood + door) in hope of regaining some peace and quiet in the office. It's either a overheating issue which would surprise me (i would think the UM3 would adjust it's temperature if it's getting hotter in there)... or the blanket is stopping the bowden tubes behind the printer in moving freely which would cause grinding of the filaments (present) and under extrusion (also present). What do you guys think? I hope it's just the cover and i need to NOT put it behind the printer... @gr5 @neotko @SandervG
  19. http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping Same idea as the PVA solution but for ABS/PETG. Works great.
  20. Are you saying you can boot from the USB port on the front? Where did you download the firmware file from? I am saying that taking the USB key out of the front and then putting it back in, then restarting the printer made it work for me. No idea why/how, it just worked after having the same symptoms you described. 2 of our 4 UM3's did that. 1 caused a failed print, the other it happened on start up. Seems Ultimaker has more debugging to do. Huh. I start my um3 with the USB key in it all the time without any issues. The way you describe it it almost sounds as if it's using the USB key to boot from. Kinda what i thought too! I remember a old PC doing that years ago... Haven't had an issue since, just completed a 12 hour job.
  21. I have unplugged and replugged it, changed filament rolls to other ultimaker one's and still doesn't recognize them automaticly. Once i am done printing (all our UM3's are currently printing jobs for customers), i will take another look.
  22. The gcode modification works GREAT. Been using it ever since @neotko posted it
  23. Thanks! Got a 34" ultrawide curved monitor coming in so won't be an issue (i think) anymore.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!