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Ronan

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Everything posted by Ronan

  1. We change buildplates nearly daily. We have a dozen spare glass buildplates, precoated, so we can quick swap. Hence why we spent a fortune on the UM3's, quite a few of them, because of reliability. Might grab one or two S5's but unsure. UM3's are nice, but i have not been impressed with the aftersale customer service. It seems those machines are hit/miss, might get a really good one or a really shitty one. Although in all fairness... i think that was a first/second batch issue, which is understandable.
  2. VERY interesting. Something to keep an eye on.
  3. Hi all, been awhile (been extremely busy with my 3D printing business 🙂 ). So one of our army of UM3 is giving us issues (its always the same one... the first one we bought the moment the UM3's came out). Warranty is long gone too... This time the auto leveling isn't working. I spent 3 hours on it with no success. What i tried/did: Clean both print heads. Change print heads. Tighten the bed fully to give it 14mm space before doing a dozen manual leveling and automatic leveling (automatic leveling = head touches glass every time when it starts). Check the red sensor wire, looks fine, its fully seated. What can i do? Right now it's doing a test print in after manually leveling the bed and turning auto bed level off. Since we run at 100% capacity (we have 2 SLS, 2 SLA, 4 UM3 and 6 Prusa MK3) We can't really afford having any printers down... Any help would be greatly appreciated before we have to send it in out of warranty (can't imagine the cost of that... brrrr). Also any tips/tricks in printing on a UM3 in manual leveling mode? Same as Um2? Thank you!
  4. Version 1.0

    570 downloads

    One of my favorite ship design from the space opera Eve Online. Gave it a quick paintjob.
  5. Surprise Ultimaker doesn't have those incorporated in their UM3...
  6. Forgot to update but maintenance came yesterday. Took them over an hour to unclog the bathroom sink + kitchen sink. Apparently the 'shredder' (no idea what its called, the kitchen sink appliance that shreds left over) ended up breaking, jamming and basically clogging everything. They replaced that too lol Can't wait to move...
  7. Carpets, towels (that magically fell into the mess) and 1 chair are goners. Luckily the bathroom and kitchen are lower than the living room so most of the water stayed contain. We are trying not to have insurance involved because it would kill my premium (and the deposits are rather large here). Waiting on maintenance staff to come check everything out and hopefully fix the problem. Me banging on it for 4+ hours did not fix the issue (in all seriousness the plumbing is beyond shady, codes must have been very different in the 60's haha...). Luckily my home Ultimaker 3 (yes i have one in my home too haha) is situated in a closet away from everything and sits on a 1 feet stool to prop it up). It's 100% fine Pro-Tip: When you have a clog... Don't listen to the 'pros' at your hardware store and do not use declogged gel. Damn thing ended up going back up and spewing a gel-like 'acid' everywhere. Arms/feet are still itchy next day over.
  8. Oh yikes! That's rough. At least it's not winter...? Oh yeah the heat/humidity in MD is absurd this summer. I haven't seen this since i used to go on vacation in Florida haha Keeping positive... moving in a month... yay
  9. Apartment flooded thanks to backed up kitchen + bathroom sinks... What a nice day. *sips coffee in his new swimming pool*
  10. I am about to purchase that material... what happened? User error or another garbage filament that i/we should stay away from???
  11. @SandervG Hey mate! Questions (we print a LOT of prototypes). We currently use Ultimaker Nylon (Black) to print our prototypes. It plays nicely with PVA supports but the finish does leave a bit to desire. How does PP compare? (Finish + PVA supports). Thanks
  12. White glue diluted in water, smooth/spread everything with a paper towel. 500+ prints, no issues. Takes 30 seconds to apply. Once the print is done, i put the bottom in water (usually have too anyway with the PVA supports) and once its all done (a few hours after) the print pops off. Printed VERY difficult/delicate prints and very big/hefty one's. No issues, ever.
  13. Sure thing, i'll snap a pic next time i get a poly order.
  14. No idea, i have made parts for customers and they were fine. Although I am not impress by their claim you can use PVA supports, because the results were very bad.
  15. A few hours usually. 2-3 hours maybe a bit more if its been in the polisher awhile.
  16. No scratches and the parts are rock hard after a few hours. I think you might be using the wrong isopro, 99.9% is probably too strong.
  17. I used black, dried in a few hours. Same with white. I use 91% isopropanol.
  18. I wait 2-3 hours for them to dry. I usually leave them in otherwise all kind of crap goes on it and gets stuck to it. For polishing i found that 15-20 mins is more than enough for parts with small details. 25-35 mins for larger/less detail parts. TBH while the parts are very smooth, they don't look that good (since you can still see layers, but not feel them) until they get painted. Since we tend to filler prime + paint anyway... it's not that useful. They also claim you can use PVA supports with polysmooth. I tried and tried and tried... and gotten poor results.
  19. Going to weight in since we print functional parts on a weekly basis at work. ABS = Durable, impact resistant PETG = Flexible, Durable Nylon = Strong, Flexible, Durable PET = Strong, Flexible, Durable PCP = Strong, Flexible, Durable, Heat Resistant For your application you will want PETG if you need some flexibility, ABS if you do not. Nylon is a good choice too. Word of advice, PETG does not play well with supports (PITA to remove) unlike ABS.
  20. Oh I am very. It just works. Thats all I ever wanted out of a printer. This printer is amazing. I am glad there are at least 3rd party solutions, though an official solution would be perfect. I didn't research for very long and I found numerous vendors and suppliers that stopped 2.85 mm support, almost all of the brands/vendors that I used for my 1.75 mm do not make 2.85 mm versions (or I cannot find them online anywhere), and the number of printers released every year that support 1.75 mm dwarf the number of 2.85 mm printers (and thus the number of people buying filament). That paints a pretty clear picture to me. You can interpret it however you want, but it tells me that 2.85 mm is on borrowed time. That being said, the fact that there IS a solution, even a 3rd party one, was enough to convince me to buy an UM2+, and its quite an amazing machine. No regrets here, just voicing worries so that maybe an official solution can be made. I definitely plan to. Which brands do you use? All the popular one's in NA and Europe sell 2.85mm. Heck, even new one's with 'speciality/exotic' filaments also have 2.85mm. You can even find the dirt cheap chinese filaments in all size/color flavors (we only use high quality filaments at work though).
  21. Which high end FDM 3D printers are your referring to as Stratasys and 3D Systems are both using 1.75 filament? Our Stratasys uses powder/pellets so... lol Their FDM printers have used both sizes in the past btw.
  22. 2.85mm is used by a lot (most) professional/high end FDM/FFF 3D printers. It's good ultimakers uses it too. Honestly i was introduced to 1.75mm filament from people purchasing cheap 3D printers, having issues and coming to us to print their parts or for help.
  23. Last call otherwise we add it to our assets (yes it works that well! )
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