Ronan
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Ronan
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Can you post a picture of one of your polished prints?
Don't have any pics on me. There's a few reviews out there with sample pics.
I'll try to take some pics when i am at work. I already, primed and painted the samples i 'polished'. Kinda defeats the purpose of showing a 'raw' polished print haha
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Unsure if this is the right section...
http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polysmoothpolysher/
I have a spare Polysher and Polysmooth rolls (all brand new) if anyone is interested in it. I purchased two and a lot of extra rolls w/o realizing it. So... brand new extra machine for anyone that wants it.
I would suggest buyers only in the US because the box is of a decent size so shipping would probably be in the $50 range (i'll only charge what shipping actually cost, USPS, FEDEX and UPS options). But i don't mind shipping intentionally.
I have used one with one of our Ultimaker 3 and it works great. Very smooth results.
For the Polysher (Brand New) + 750g Polysmooth Jet Black (Brand New) + 5x Polysmooth 45g Color Samples (Brand New) Price would be $250 + shipping.
Total value is $350 + shipping if you order one from their website.
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Picked up the machines... turns out i ordered 2 and a dozen rolls of filaments LOL!
If anyone want one machine and a few rolls let me know. I'm in the USA so shipping within the USA wouldn't be much.
Shoot me a PM, i only opened (and am using) 1 machine and so far great results. So the other one is brand new.
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Will have to try mine on... was suppose to arrive in September. Arrived today, May 5th... 2017. lol
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Boxed up and shipped today for warranty repairs :(
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Happened again on a 50+ hour long print for a customer. Same UM3.
Urgh... contacting our reseller under warranty... Very frustrating, exact same issue, yet those 2 white 'holders' look perfectly fine...
I am worried there is an issue with the bed not moving up/down when it is suppose too and causing issues. I have noticed some 'banding' in latest prints...
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Anyone been able to get high quality results with their Ultimakers and using Brassfill or CopperFill filaments?
Please share some settings if you have
My results have been... not that great :( -
Very weird.. running 2.4 on a few UM3 and we don't have that issue... At least i never noticed it and it never caused an issue if it is happening... O_o
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Print came out fine
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Interesting, i'll take a look.
Thanks
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I easily have a dozen left over PVA rolls nearly done. Individually not enough to print much support... is there a way to 'combine' them? I would probably be able to fill up a roll or something...
I was thinking maybe cutting the edge at 45 degree angle, and using... water to combine the 2 parts? Rinse & Repeat?...
This stuff is expensive, worth every dollar... but it hurts seeing so many rolls with a few turns on each, and not being able to use them for customer prints.
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I will know tomorrow how the reprint goes.
I could not see any cracks, definitely not like the one posted by gr5 (will print a few of those, just in case, for a pre-emptive temporary solution)! Once the rod was put back into place after a sturdy 'snap', it doesn't move.
I will monitor this closely to see if there is a crack happening, or if it was a freak accident.
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Well one of our UM3's had a critical failure, 90% into a print (that specific print has been done before with zero issues).
The rod of the X axis seemed to have unclipped itself from the 2 white 'holders' that travel on the belt. When i arrived at work this morning i saw the mess (and what a mess!).
Is this a freak accident? The 2 white holders seem fine, i was able to easily clip the rod back into place and home the head (checking to make sure everything was square).
I will be doing a test print asap. Is there somekind of calibration to do, or something/process to go about it to make sure everything is fine?
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I have owned both the Taz5 and Taz6 with the single extruder head, dual extruder head and even their flexyhead.
Ultimaker 3 is better in every way except in buildplate size.
Even if i ignore the multitude of quality control issues with the LulzBot head (they did it right by replacing 2 different heads), you just can't get the same print quality as an Ultimaker. On the 3 you can even pritn with water soluble materials, very easily. The LulzBot have a HUGE design flaw that you can't really overcome... the bigger/heavier the head, the more issues you have when trying to get high quality prints (wasted a month because of that, after hundreds of e-mails out, i was basically told 'its just the way it is').
Ultimaker all the way, i actually sold both the Taz5 and Taz6 since they are useless when i have 4 Ultimaker 3's here. For the 1 out of 20 prints that i need bigger, i'll cut a piece and glue it post processing...
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Good to know!
FYI jonatanrullman refusing warranty work within it's legal time frame is a good way to end up in court.
I know, i took a reseller and manufacturer to court for it a few years ago, and won. That was in the US too, where things aren't as tight and well done as in Europe.
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Fair point. But even for outside there are interesting alternatives which do not always get the attention it deserves.
I think ABS has the benefit of being around when 3D printing started, just as PLA and people grew custom to using it for more serious business over PLA. (besides that we also know it from Lego and some other daily use products).
But PC is also pretty strong and heat resistant. CPE the same. And Nylon is also strong, but not as rigid as ABS. (which can be a good thing depending on what you need).
I would love a PLA alternative for outside that also plays well with PVA. So far it's Nylon but it is limited due to its rigidity (compare to PLA/ABS).
Have you had much luck with PC or CPE with PVA?
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PLA is pretty strong, but not as strong as ABS. The bigger issue, by far, is using PLA outside. Just doesn't work in the real world environment. It's not as UV stable as ABS, and temperature is a major issue.
When printing models, PLA all the way, works amingly well. But when we have orders for mechanical parts, or 'working' objects, PLA never cuts it unless its something used indoor, doesn't need to be too strong.
Also ABS is quite easy to finish with a protective layer of acetone. PLA not so much (even with UV stabilize top coat sprays).
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Would love to use ABS with a soluble material... PLA is quite limiting when 3d printing mechanical parts.
Anyone tried Nylon + PVA?
As for the print we did, came out good, but not great. Unsure if it's the model or not, so will try to print one we already did before to see if there's any posi/nega changes.
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Nuked the folder, reinstalled, all fresh and clean. Just finished a print (seems to print a good chunk faster now too!).
Once it's done taking a bath, i'll let everyone know how it came out.
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Even reinstalling Cura doesn't change the changes done to profiles from previous versions.
I had to manually click on the little 'back arrow' to revert changes to default (which i never changed, but they were simply different in the previous version).
Now, by default, with Cura 2.4 the prime tower is no longer printed.
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You mention you use the latest firmware in your opening post, but I don't see a version of Cura mentioned.
What materials are you printing with? Cause the materials I print with have the primevtower disabled by default in Cura 2.4. (PLA, PVA).
If your prime tower is on by default, I am pretty sure there is something wrong with your Cura installation.
Latest version of Cura, installed fresh after uninstalling Cura 2.3. I'll reinstall it again, see if that changes anything.
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Please upgrade Cura to version 2.4. The wipe tower has been disabled for all profiles, since oozing has been suppressed with smart temperature tricks at start and end of each layer.
I'm glad you mention you use the default profiles. Please keep doing that, at least until you have gotten good results.
Of course, these profiles were optimized for UM materials. When using other profiles, your mileage may vary.
As stated we are using Cura 2.4 and the ooze tower is on by default (its now hollow).
We only use UM materials, they give the best results (by far).
The glass plates tend to have a little bit of a curvature where the very center is higher and then it's leveled near the 3 screws (front left, front right, rear center). This means the rear 2 corners are lower. Unfortunately this is where the prime tower usually goes (rear right corner). Moving the tower closer to the rear screw helps a lot! That way the bottom layer is squished more into the glass and it sticks better.
Will try it! Thanks!
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We own 4 UM3's and this is a occuring issue on all of them.
When printing a tall PLA/PVA print, the ooze tower will often BREAK on the bottom (around half a dozen layers) and then topple over. Most of the time the prints are near completion (our average prints are 2 days long), but this creates issues with finishing, pva support not being properly put, etc.
Yes we upgraded to the latest firmware and we saw an improvement (with the new 'hollow' ooze tower) but the issue still happens. Sometimes it gets unstuck and falls over, but more often than not, it actually breaks on the bottom and then falls over (usually on a PVA layer).
We are using default settings, normal quality. When everything works, it rivals are bigger more expensive machines, but when this happens urgh... more post processing work in finishing the prints, and often means painting them to cover the bandages...
This happens with bare hot bed and with a PVA solution (white glue) applied thinly for a stronger adhesion.
Please advise.
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Anything from Ultimaker?
My results have been... not that great :(
Brand New Polymaker Polysher and Polysmooth Available
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
New Review of it:
Pretty much exactly what we found using ours.