Ronan
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Ronan
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I Got A 43 hour and 31 hour long dual core prints done.
Flawless.
Word of advise, leave the brim on when printing pla/pva, it helps to stabilize edges quite a lot. I use 4mm brim.
I haven't used Brim.. I just make sure the horizontal expansion for support is at least 3MM.. that should fix all possible issues..
It doesn't. I had a print fail with those settings. A long print too..edges lifted where it was pva supports, it skewed the print and messed it up.
That's why i went back to the default brim settings.
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I assume you use pva for brim? I do.
The brim is actually printed out of PLA every time (aka core 1 material).
That's the default setting on my cura.
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I Got A 43 hour and 31 hour long dual core prints done.
Flawless.
Word of advise, leave the brim on when printing pla/pva, it helps to stabilize edges quite a lot. I use 4mm brim.
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We printed a few bicycles for a customer's branding using the carbon reinforced material by colorfabb. We printed the joints with that, used carbon oval tubes to join the joints and then used off the shelve bicycle parts for the rest.
Came out great once a lacquer finish was applied and some graphics.
As for strength, it's not comparable to real carbon fiber parts. It's more gimicky, but does provide some more strength.
PLA has no swelling or anything from moisture. I have tested it by leaving parts in water for DAYS, and it did NOTHING to the PLA.
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Hi guys.
May I ask how many months the ultimaker 3 has been sold / shipped out ?
Its normal for most companies like this to have a few little errors at the begining of production ( production quality and control). Iv learned it really does help to wait maybe 2 or 3 months until the production people have worked out the little kinks...
But it Looks really great and the prints are very beautiful !
Congrats and have lots of fun.
Ian Spring
UM3 is great. Software needs some tweaking, but that should come soon.
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It does add time to the process because all of the sudden you are dealing with print head switches, heating up and cooling down, a prime tower and a lot of more support to be printed. But it should not change 2h into 13h.
If I am not mistaken it was mentioned somewhere that this was an inaccuracy in Cura or smthn. But I bet Ronan has experienced it himself by now?
Did you actually give that print a go @Ronan?
Yepp and a lot more. It adds 2x-3x more time. My 10 hour long prints are now 25-30 hours.
Business takes a hit when it's that slow, but parts need zero post processing work.
Artists are coming to me to have their models 3d printed in one go, much cheaper than the competition or traditional methods.
It's very, very, slow though.
Edit: I should add that we print at 0.1 resolution for our customers, most of the time. It gives a really nice finish. 0.15 is tempting because it takes a good chunk less time, but have not tested it. On 2+ 0.15 was to similar to out competitions quality (we strive for higher quality prints, cheaper).
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@Ronan, how did it go with your Ultimaker in the closet?
Got 2 UM3's in the closet with a thick dampening blanket covering the door.
2x 15 hour prints came out perfect. Now finishing a 40+ hour long print, which i checked an hour ago, and was perfect.
So i think that solves the issue :)And i get a bit more peace and quiet
Somua tank (French WWII tank) was the test print:
Edit: Does PVA play nice with colorfabb PLA/PHA?
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At least give them a day or two, jeez... There could be a reason for a slightly late response other than that they "only want to sell".
Looks like he has been waiting a few days. During normal business hours, it's normal to receive a response the same day, or the next day (that excludes weekends of course).
If a reseller can't do that... well i see no reason why they should have my money. That's how i run my business, and i think it's a bare minimum for customer/business relationship.
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Make sure to report everything. So others don't have to deal with a reseller that only wants to sell.
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SLS printers. You get the finest resolution, some are even color.
Our Objet500 blows anything else out of the water. But there's a price to pay. Seriously... it's insanely expensive
As for traditional FFF printers, i say something like the Ultimaker's. Combination of high quality parts, enclosed system, it all adds up at the end.
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Id send it back if its not 'perfect'. Talk to the people where you purchased it.
We ordered 4, all 4 were perfect. I would not settle for less at that price.
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Iv printed with the UM2+ in a closed chamber with zero issues. So i was quite shocked this morning when i saw the print.
Hopefully this works out. Plenty of space for the printer to 'breath' and the blanket is just covering the door.
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Heat for sure. The printer can't adjust the temperature of the enclosure it is in and it needs at least some cool air in order to keep the areas of the core that needs to be cool, well, cool. The filament is going to get too warm too high in the system and expand causing issues.
That would suck... really bad. So how come a hood/door works but once i put a sound dampening blanket on top (and not even tucked in or anything) causes this issue?
What about people putting them in cupboards and what not?
Edit: Trying something different, printer goes in a spare closet, blanket goes over the closed door. Reduces noise quite a lot, i can fit about 3-4 printers in it (But will only put 1-2). Do you think overheating will still be an issue? The closet is 3 feet deep, 8 feet high, and 4-5 feet long. @IRobertI
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Redid a print that came out perfect. Only variable is a sound ampening blanket over the printer (printer has a hood + door) in hope of regaining some peace and quiet in the office.
It's either a overheating issue which would surprise me (i would think the UM3 would adjust it's temperature if it's getting hotter in there)... or the blanket is stopping the bowden tubes behind the printer in moving freely which would cause grinding of the filaments (present) and under extrusion (also present).
What do you guys think?
I hope it's just the cover and i need to NOT put it behind the printer...
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http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping
Same idea as the PVA solution but for ABS/PETG.
Works great.
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Mine did that this morning.
I had to turn it on, take the USB out, put it back in, turn it off, turn it on, wait.
Are you saying you can boot from the USB port on the front? Where did you download the firmware file from?
I am saying that taking the USB key out of the front and then putting it back in, then restarting the printer made it work for me.
No idea why/how, it just worked after having the same symptoms you described. 2 of our 4 UM3's did that. 1 caused a failed print, the other it happened on start up.
Seems Ultimaker has more debugging to do.
Huh. I start my um3 with the USB key in it all the time without any issues. The way you describe it it almost sounds as if it's using the USB key to boot from.
Kinda what i thought too! I remember a old PC doing that years ago...
Haven't had an issue since, just completed a 12 hour job.
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I have unplugged and replugged it, changed filament rolls to other ultimaker one's and still doesn't recognize them automaticly.
Once i am done printing (all our UM3's are currently printing jobs for customers), i will take another look.
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The gcode modification works GREAT.
Been using it ever since @neotko posted it
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Thanks!
Got a 34" ultrawide curved monitor coming in so won't be an issue (i think) anymore.
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The main reason why it took so long to get the UM3 out was that we were shooting at a moving target (that and multiplying your size every year also puts a whole ton of overhead on an organisation!)
If we would have known in advance that it would take us 2+ years to build the thing, we would have made different choices. The most important thing I would have changed is the display; swap that thing out for a colour / touch interface and tilt it a bit.
Yes please.
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UM3+ confirmed. Same printer, slight modification.... faster print time with PVA support?
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Mine did that this morning.
I had to turn it on, take the USB out, put it back in, turn it off, turn it on, wait.
Are you saying you can boot from the USB port on the front? Where did you download the firmware file from?
I am saying that taking the USB key out of the front and then putting it back in, then restarting the printer made it work for me.
No idea why/how, it just worked after having the same symptoms you described. 2 of our 4 UM3's did that. 1 caused a failed print, the other it happened on start up.
Seems Ultimaker has more debugging to do.
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Mine did that this morning.
I had to turn it on, take the USB out, put it back in, turn it off, turn it on, wait.
And it loaded fine.
Gave me a scare, 2 of them did that.
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Go in the Ultimaker menu and there should be a restore to factory settings option.
Then connect your Ultimaker to the WIFI using the standard procedure. Then using Cura 2.3 you can update it/etc.
I think mine simply updated by itself once it was connected to our Wifi.
Ultimaker 3 First Impressions
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
Oh wow! Keep us updated on this issue. We now have a few UM3's as our main 3d printers since they are cheaper to run than the stratasys.