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About 1-prop-head

  • Birthday 02/18/1952

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  1. Been using cure for 3 years with my Ultimaker 2 extended. Some of my prints are multicolor and I change filament to add various colors to the print at various layers. It appears that when I select the Layer view I get a option dialog but never progress to the layer select slider. Any help will be appreciated. Cura 3.4.1, Ultiamaker 2 extended with current firmware, Also change filament at layer option didn't stop at all at any layer
  2. Just a bit more on this side fan subject. After a short circuit caused by me crimping one of the side fan wires between the aluminum housing and the lower plastic nozzle housing I smoked the wire to one of side fans. Testing the fan using an external power supply showed that only the fan wire needed repair and after that the fan worked fine under test. When installed on the Ultimaker 2 the fans still did not work so I replaced the transistor on the main board with one I purchased from Digikey (BC817 NPN transistor ). Still failed and finally found that the series bridge wire (green on my unit) was open and needed to be replaced. As stated above check those wires. Fans are 12 volt each wired in series so the 24 volt Pulse Code Modulated current source is divided between the two fans. To test use the Maintenance/Advanced/Set Fan Speed option which will let you run the PCM controlled circuit from full on to off easily. I am pretty sure I did not need to change the NPN transistor on the Main Board but I am not going to put the old one back on the board.
  3. Instructions on cutting AnyThing.stl into parts. The most general way to do this for any Thing.stl file install OpenSCAD (its free and works on most platforms) commands used: import(); translate(); cube(); functions used: difference(){} code looks like this difference(){ import("/PathToThing/TheThing.stl"); translate([x,y,z])cube([x,y,z]); } cube - x,y,z are adjusted to make a cube that covers TheThing translate - x,y.z are adjusted to move the cube over the part of TheThing you do not want in the HalfOfThing.stl iterate adjusting x,y,z values until your are pleased with the cut. then render and export to your HalfOfThing.stl file
  4. While your in there you might install a little squirrel cage fan to blow air into the grill side of the main board enclosure. I did this 3 years ago and still going strong.
  5. I agree that PEI is an outstanding material but I think there a few limitations to using PEI on at least my Ultimaker 2. I print exclusively with 1.75 filament and to do that successfully I needed to make a few modifications to my printer. That said I looked into printing with PEI and found that my Ultimaker 2 printer is not within the specifications required for that material. 1. Ultimaker 2 extruder temp max is 260C and PEI would expect at least 330C 2. Ultimaker 2 heated bed max is 100C and PEI wants at least 110 3. Ultimaker 2 does not have heated enclosure but by adding a door you do get some desirable heat retention. Aside from the expense of PEI limitation 1 is most likely the show stopper in my opinion.
  6. I too prefer 1.75 filament and specifically ABS. I have been printing exclusively in this size filament on a couple of Ultimaker 2 printers for over a year My initial choice to convert the Ultimaker 2 to 1.75 filament was because the stepper motor would skip steps when printing 2.85 filament on an older Ultimaker I was using. This problem was solved when I switched to 1.75 because of the speed difference to push longer lengths of filament to get the same volume of plastic extruded. You will need to address the following issues if you take an Ulitmaker 2 down the 1.75 filament pathway route. 1 - Your bowden should be 2mm id. 2mm ID PTFE tubing is easy to find online and but to make it fit into the stock feeder and extruder fittings you are going to need to make some changes. I found that on the feeder end it was easy to purchase a push lock fitting that fit the 4mm OD of the 2mm tubing. Adapting it to the stock feeder was done by printing an adapter. The other end I settled on using tubing suitable for the 2.85 filament and pushing the 2mm ID tubing into this tubing to create an outer sleeve. The most difficult element was to insert a straight pin into the sleeve so it would just catch the outer edge of the inner tubing to lock it in place. I made a jig to assist in this procedure. 2. - You will need a 2mm ID thermal buffer and a 2mm ID nozzle for the extruder end. I found these online and they work great you can even find a 2mm Olson Block. 3. - If you chose to use Cura 2.5 or Cura 2.6 you will find that that the material settings in the printer are ignored and you will need to print at a material flow of 22% to not over extrude your print. In the end I also made a feeder with a 2mm pathway to replace the stock feeder and a aluminum sleeve to replaced the spring in the extruder just like the one used in the Ultimaker 2+.
  7. I have the same problem. It is sad because it also gets in the way if you inadvertently select Pause when you really wanted Tune. There is not a work around. One very good idea if no fix is available would be to remove "Pause" from the menu since if selected without a working "Resume" the print is ruined. I would be happy to look into the fix for this but will need at least minimal guidance as to where to start looking in the Marlin code.
  8. I have seen this topic before but have found no working solution Using the Ultimaker 2 firmware as installed from my MAC running CURA 15.04.6 onto my Ultimaker 2 extended and while printing from a file that is read from the SD card. When I select Pause from the menu Ultimaker 2 menu the printing will pause as expected but when I select Resume nothing happens. I was hoping to use this feature to change my filament to a different color. Thanks
  9. I too have been trying to print TPU and found that you need a feeder that has as small a gap (zero is ideal) in the pathway as possible. The one I have currently had success was an adaptation of a E3D design but modified to go on the back of the Ultimaker 2 using a 2mm PTFE filament pathway all the way to the extruder hot end. Two postings on Thingiverse cover this one being some of the "1.75 Filament Feeder Adapter Parts" pathway modifications and the other "Minimal gap 1.75 Filament Feeder" that you can print in ABS. The combination of these and adjustments to the fact that TPU needs to be printed slow while depreciating the need for retraction in the print design work for me.
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