SG91

Hi I dont have an Ultimaker actually. But A cartesian style i3 Mega. Slightly modified and with tmc2208's. I wanna see if anyone have an idea about my issue. After the firmware was updated with the latest original software. I noticed It works fine when manually moving the XYZ. And recalibrated it again. But when starting A print right after it homes itself. The left Z motor seems to stop/malfunction. And the right motor keeps going. Screwing it up. What can it be? :O

Hello How low in power can I go without A gearing solution ? And before it miss steps ? NEMA17 Stepper motor / 0.9° step / 2.1 kg.cm NEMA17 Stepper motor Slim / 1.8° step / 1.33 kg.cm would any of these work?

Hello I had an Umo+ before that was easy to change steps thru display. Now I got an Anycubic i3 mega. Which not have that option. And I changed from 20 teeth to 16 pulleys. Does any1 know how to do it with Cura?

Hi Well I mean just in general. But Speeds below 70 mm/s. Lets say both machines have equal hardware and software . And a complex item is printed with same settings. Can any difference be seen between those technologies? X moving bed is worse at high speeds I suppose. Precision I refer to how square and round it turns out. Also measures. If we compare two printers for 500 dollar should any of them perform better just by technology?

I wonder what technology is best Between the one ultimaker using and prusa i3 for example with its X moving bed. Good and bad? Best precision and reliability? More or less parts?

Just wanna see if some1 here wants to buy a secondhand umo+ with top quality misumi parts. I simply lost interest. Built my one 4months ago. starting price on ebay 500dollar (max limit/month by ebay) the misumi parts did cost around 265 euro. Link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimaker-Original-Plus-Upgraded-with-Misumi-parts-/262390456341?hash=item3d17b0a015:g:3T4AAOSwubRXElXe

One is enough, looks like there is nothing. But I promise that 0,5mm ish "tooth" added really squeezes down between the belts teeth.. I pulled it a couple of times and it was impossible for it to slip. Not shown in the pictures thought..

I made a small conversion for the wooden blocks to allow gt2 belts. The mxl ones didnt move anywhere so gt2 will definitely be held in place.

when I bought my umo+ one Z bearing had some extra friction and was locking randomly. I got 2 new under guaranty but they was much the same. Used the least crappy one.still minor issue.. But they all seems to "lock" when changing direction. have anybody else notice that?

nice ty

What is the dimensions of the original 8 bearings in the corners and the heads ball/bushings?

hm yes I do know about them. But my printer is not accurate enough yet to success with such mods. So you didn't read post number 3?? You could also use this https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original adapter from @Dim3nsioneer I found that if you use Nick Foley's direct drive corner, then you need a slightly shorter adapter, so I modified the @Dim3nsioneer adapter a little bit: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/short-bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive

did it again, not finding anything. At page 3 I thought you ment I see now 370mm ? So you didn't read post number 3??

Yes did it once. maybe im blind but cant see some1 telling custom lenghts for x y 8mm. I dont wanna buy flexible couplings or shafts when Im not clear about both ends.

Can someone pm me and help to choose misumi parts ?