SG91

Hello How low in power can I go without A gearing solution ? And before it miss steps ? NEMA17 Stepper motor / 0.9° step / 2.1 kg.cm NEMA17 Stepper motor Slim / 1.8° step / 1.33 kg.cm would any of these work?

Hello I had an Umo+ before that was easy to change steps thru display. Now I got an Anycubic i3 mega. Which not have that option. And I changed from 20 teeth to 16 pulleys. Does any1 know how to do it with Cura?

Hi Well I mean just in general. But Speeds below 70 mm/s. Lets say both machines have equal hardware and software . And a complex item is printed with same settings. Can any difference be seen between those technologies? X moving bed is worse at high speeds I suppose. Precision I refer to how square and round it turns out. Also measures. If we compare two printers for 500 dollar should any of them perform better just by technology?

I wonder what technology is best Between the one ultimaker using and prusa i3 for example with its X moving bed. Good and bad? Best precision and reliability? More or less parts?

Just wanna see if some1 here wants to buy a secondhand umo+ with top quality misumi parts. I simply lost interest. Built my one 4months ago. starting price on ebay 500dollar (max limit/month by ebay) the misumi parts did cost around 265 euro. Link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultimaker-Original-Plus-Upgraded-with-Misumi-parts-/262390456341?hash=item3d17b0a015:g:3T4AAOSwubRXElXe

One is enough, looks like there is nothing. But I promise that 0,5mm ish "tooth" added really squeezes down between the belts teeth.. I pulled it a couple of times and it was impossible for it to slip. Not shown in the pictures thought..

I made a small conversion for the wooden blocks to allow gt2 belts. The mxl ones didnt move anywhere so gt2 will definitely be held in place.

when I bought my umo+ one Z bearing had some extra friction and was locking randomly. I got 2 new under guaranty but they was much the same. Used the least crappy one.still minor issue.. But they all seems to "lock" when changing direction. have anybody else notice that?

nice ty

What is the dimensions of the original 8 bearings in the corners and the heads ball/bushings?

hm yes I do know about them. But my printer is not accurate enough yet to success with such mods. So you didn't read post number 3?? You could also use this https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original adapter from @Dim3nsioneer I found that if you use Nick Foley's direct drive corner, then you need a slightly shorter adapter, so I modified the @Dim3nsioneer adapter a little bit: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/short-bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive

did it again, not finding anything. At page 3 I thought you ment I see now 370mm ? So you didn't read post number 3??

Yes did it once. maybe im blind but cant see some1 telling custom lenghts for x y 8mm. I dont wanna buy flexible couplings or shafts when Im not clear about both ends.

Can someone pm me and help to choose misumi parts ?

ahh ok good makes sence. needs to be longer to reach out of the box?

A few questions How long do the x y shafts need to be for direct drive ? basicly why is 6mm used with ball bearings to the head? and the copper bits on the outside 8mm? why not have all same size and with balls?

okey !

Do u know what causing a cube to get slightly wider at higher layers? a 10x10x10 mm cube measured 3 spots, bottom middle top x 10.02 10.05 10.16 y 10.00 10.10 10.18

hehe thank you for alternatives but cant downgrade my expectations now

what shall I do lol I have no Company. weird saying no to money by freezing out 99% of the people

okey then how did u get them ?

nice but tons of informations getting headache. Can u link the items you bought?

anyway I felt enthusiastic to upgrades , You know any high quality replacement shafts also? and bearings

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Kinda off topic but, can some1 help me change gcodes? Would like to do this 1. If possible remove the auto home function just before it goes to do A skirt? Im abit bored of having to restart 1-2times cos of oozed filament get squished around the nozzle. And messes around with it at the print zone. 2. Automatic 210c first layer then go down/up to the temp I choosen in cura. 3. At the end to make it stay at idle temps 150c + bed 60 after.