SG91
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Posts posted by SG91
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Hello
How low in power can I go without A gearing solution ?
And before it miss steps ?
NEMA17 Stepper motor / 0.9° step / 2.1 kg.cm
NEMA17 Stepper motor Slim / 1.8° step / 1.33 kg.cm
would any of these work?
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Hello
I had an Umo+ before that was easy to change steps thru display.
Now I got an Anycubic i3 mega. Which not have that option.
And I changed from 20 teeth to 16 pulleys.
Does any1 know how to do it with Cura?
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Hi
Well I mean just in general. But
Speeds below 70 mm/s.
Lets say both machines have equal hardware and software .
And a complex item is printed with same settings. Can any difference be seen between those technologies?
X moving bed is worse at high speeds I suppose.
Precision I refer to how square and round it turns out. Also measures.
If we compare two printers for 500 dollar should any of them perform better just by technology?
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I wonder what technology is best
Between the one ultimaker using and prusa i3 for example with its X moving bed.
Good and bad? Best precision and reliability? More or less parts?
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Just wanna see if some1 here wants to buy a secondhand umo+ with top quality misumi parts.
I simply lost interest. Built my one 4months ago.
starting price on ebay 500dollar (max limit/month by ebay) the misumi parts did cost around 265 euro.
Link
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You might want to add 'teeth' to that printed part.
One is enough, looks like there is nothing. But I promise that 0,5mm ish "tooth" added really squeezes down between the belts teeth.. I pulled it a couple of times and it was impossible for it to slip.
Not shown in the pictures thought..
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when I bought my umo+ one Z bearing had some extra friction and was locking randomly.
I got 2 new under guaranty but they was much the same. Used the least crappy one.still minor issue.. But they all seems to "lock" when changing direction. have anybody else notice that?
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What is the dimensions of the original 8 bearings in the corners and the heads ball/bushings?
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hm yes I do know about them. But my printer is not accurate enough yet to success with such mods.
did it again, not finding anything. At page 3 I thought you ment
I see now 370mm ?
Yes did it once. maybe im blind but cant see some1 telling custom lenghts for x y 8mm.
I dont wanna buy flexible couplings or shafts when Im not clear about both ends.
Have you read through This thread?
So you didn't read post number 3??
You could also use this https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original adapter from @Dim3nsioneer
I found that if you use Nick Foley's direct drive corner, then you need a slightly shorter adapter, so I modified the @Dim3nsioneer adapter a little bit: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/short-bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive
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did it again, not finding anything. At page 3 I thought you ment
I see now 370mm ?
Yes did it once. maybe im blind but cant see some1 telling custom lenghts for x y 8mm.
I dont wanna buy flexible couplings or shafts when Im not clear about both ends.
Have you read through This thread?
So you didn't read post number 3??
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Yes did it once. maybe im blind but cant see some1 telling custom lenghts for x y 8mm.
I dont wanna buy flexible couplings or shafts when Im not clear about both ends.
Have you read through This thread?
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Can someone pm me and help to choose misumi parts ?
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ahh ok good makes sence.
needs to be longer to reach out of the box?
Oh. And the 6mm is probably to save weight.
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A few questions
How long do the x y shafts need to be for direct drive ?
basicly why is 6mm used with ball bearings to the head?
and the copper bits on the outside 8mm? why not have all same size and with balls?
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Do u know what causing a cube to get slightly wider at higher layers?
a 10x10x10 mm cube
measured 3 spots, bottom middle top
x 10.02 10.05 10.16
y 10.00 10.10 10.18
Oh lol, I did bough some to IGUS... Well I have a shaft overstock, hopefully someday I'll make a fourth umo...
This are the part numbers for Igus linear shafts that I got.
SWMH-08 2,00 15,34 CF53-Welle, 8mm, h7, gehärtet,
L=337 mm
SWMH-08 2,00 15,34 CF53-Welle, 8mm, h7, gehärtet,
L=348 mm
SWMH-06 2,00
15,34 steel shaft, 8mm h7 hard- L=267 mm
Their prices are around 5€ for each one, so it's almost a 40% cheaper than misumi. I have them in a box stored, the only ones I tested are the 6mm hotend x/y thin shafts, they work quite nice and they where perfectly straight, the other shafts I don't know since I didn't even open the box.
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hehe thank you for alternatives but cant downgrade my expectations now
Oh lol, I did bgh some to IGUS... Well I have a shaft overstock, hopefully someday I'll make a fourth umo...
This are the part numbers for Igus linear shafts that I got.
SWMH-08 2,00 15,34 CF53-Welle, 8mm, h7, gehärtet,
L=337 mm
SWMH-08 2,00 15,34 CF53-Welle, 8mm, h7, gehärtet,
L=348 mm
SWMH-06 2,00
15,34 steel shaft, 8mm h7 hard- L=267 mm
Their prices are around 5€ for each one, so it's almost a 40% cheaper than misumi. I have them in a box stored, the only ones I tested are the 6mm hotend x/y thin shafts, they work quite nice and they where perfectly straight, the other shafts I don't know since I didn't even open the box.
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what shall I do lol I have no Company.
weird saying no to money by freezing out 99% of the people
I have a company, made an account, order, payed, installed it
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okey then how did u get them ?
It can't be linked. You need to search (on the link post you have the part name). Also misumi only sells to companies.
This are the ones I got:
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nice but tons of informations getting headache. Can u link the items you bought?
The best shafts you could get are from Misumi, I bough enough for my 3 machines, they move like silk and they are perfectly straight. Ofc, unless you have a banana shaft, isn't necessary.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5103-ultimaker-black-edition?page=18#reply-115379
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anyway I felt enthusiastic to upgrades , You know any high quality replacement shafts also? and bearings
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strange problem
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Hi
I dont have an Ultimaker actually.
But A cartesian style i3 Mega. Slightly modified and with tmc2208's.
I wanna see if anyone have an idea about my issue.
After the firmware was updated with the latest original software. I noticed It works fine when manually moving the XYZ. And recalibrated it again.
But when starting A print right after it homes itself. The left Z motor seems to stop/malfunction. And the right motor keeps going. Screwing it up.
What can it be? :O