Torgeir
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Posts posted by Torgeir
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Hi @Andrew_F,
To answer this simple, -there is an open (rupture) in your temperature wiring!
When this happen, the the temperature go sky high..
"How high, depend of the internal circuit after the "PT100" input!"
So, there is a broken wire, some place between your nozzle and the feeder!
This is where the wiring bundle always move/bending, -just look here.
If this was a permanent failure, it would fail all the time, but this is intermittent -so a now and then connection..
The wires always on a move, -suffer the most, -go figure.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Adventurehill1,
Good news, but did you use Cura 5.70, -or the previous 5.60?
Your printer Positioning Accuracy X / Y / Z 0.0125 / 0.0125 / 0.0025 mm (from the user manual).
Every Z micro step are 2.5 micron, so you should be able to print "some" tiny layers..
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Hi @Nils_007,
This is very strange. It looks like the nozzle bed height is way to high, when looking at the "brim layer".
Are your printer modified in any way?
Here is a link to Eirin in "fbcr8", she made this -how to remove an clean the UM2+ feeder type:
Here are Troubleshooting and Advice as well:
https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/categories/200330744-Troubleshooting-and-Advice
I've used standard setting in Cura 5.70 and saved it as a project and from this file you can save the gcode file into your sd card for your UM2E+. Here it is: UM2E_Plus_3DBenchy.3mf
However, for UM2E+ I'm using Cura version 4.13.1 (the latest version of Cura using the old slicing engine).
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Adventurehill1,
This answer quite a few thing.
The versions of Cura before ver. 5.60 had some weird issue just with the support on certain places, but not on all print objects. This might also occurs differently caused by "some" model / profiles..
When come to the version 5.60, I've had some issues with it, -but with the new arachne version all (I've seen) this is gone.
I'll think this version; Cura 5.70 are the best version I've seen from Cura.
I wanted to see you printing the cube with "Z" up -just alone without any support, just to avoid the stringing from the support. This way, you may isolate problems one by one -I'd like to think..
I'll think you're right in assuming there is no under extrution.
The E-step are calibrated numbers / mm you confirmed.
Did you ever print with PLA with success or.(?)
This will be kind of indication that your firmware are working OK.
Thanks
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Well, -It's the support that's destroy your model in the first place.
Rotate your model so the "Z" is pointing straight up, the turn off the support -then you will have a much better model to analyse, for the one trying to help you and for yourself.
Are you sure you're using a 0.4 mm size nozzle? Or, could it be a much to high feed rate setting in your firmware?
I'll ask this as the line width setting in this last model was 0.24 mm (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) Cura warn you here with "Min layer width 0.34 mm). Still your model looks like this.(?)
You're using Cura 5.6.0 , Anycubic advice using Cura 5.2.0 as the profiles are made with this version, I would jump to Cura 5.7.0!
Maybe you tell us a little bit more about your printer.
Thanks
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This print looks much better and I've seen that the acceleration and the speed are more like "PLA".
I've just magnified your test cube for a more detailed look.
This print looks much better.
Try to reduce speed from 80 mm/s to 50 mm/s.
Reduce the retraction length from 8 mm to 6.5mm.
The surface looks very disturbed, is this a brand new filament just removed from a sealed bag?
Also we'll see acceleration/resonance marks in here, so reducing speed may help.
Almost all types of thermoplastic attract water directly from the moisture in the air, so it is very important to keep it in a sealed bag with dehumidifier bags (after printing) to prevent this from happening.
But again "PLA", doing calibration without proper tuned filament profile are very challenging.
PLA are easy to get and cheap..
Anyway good luck.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Slashee_the_Cow and @Adventurehill1.
Ofc., all discussions around problems like this are valuable -and I'll sure agree with your suggestions.
However, there are some differences in here we'll need to take into consideration.
Printing with a (1.5 mm or 0.8 mm) diameter nozzle versus a size of 0.4 mm makes some differences.
If we compare the 0.8 mm and 0.4 mm nozzle we'll see it is 0.8 mm is twice the diameter of a 0.4.
Further, -the surface area of a 0.8 mm is four (4!) times bigger in area.
In addition this printer use a bowden tube, but I do not know the retraction length this printer are using. I'll know that some "Ender 3" types with bowden tube use the same retraction length as my UM2E+ (6.5 mm), "assuming" this Anycubic printer are close to this length.
Printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle need much higher feed pressure in order to work properly here, so using a higher speed and acceleration are really needed to improve this problem IMHO.
For the Anycubic printer reduce the speed from 80 mm/s (PLA default) "maybe" reduce the speed to say 60 mm/s and keep the acceleration the same as default PLA.
When I started printing with PETG I've used PLA and modified the parameters according the specs for the brand of PETG.
Only adjusted the speed from 60 mm/s down to about 45 mm/s, else only the temp and the fan (no fan until 25 % of print done then fan on at speed 20 % to the end). Used bed at only 45 deg. C., but with printer closed in front with a top hat as well.
Well, -inside the web site of Anycubic they recommend using PLA profile as a "template" for PETG, but need to reduce the printing speed some.
As you have the Anycubic profile for PLA, why not try this type of filament to have a little confidence with your printer.
Most of us in here started printing with PLA.
Just my 5p
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Adventurehill1,
You've got plenty of good advice's here.
As I've found this issue very strange, I did a little research on your print profiles and Cura.
Slicer and firmware here:
https://store.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software
I've found out that "redit" made the two profiles present in your printer, TPU and PLA.
I'll guess that you modified the TPU profile with the temperature for PETG, yes we do this for sure.
However, all your acceleration and speed settings (plus more) are made for TPU.
A better chose would be to use PLA parameters and just modify the temperature settings.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Nils_007,
This are great news, so just awaiting the new PLA to test. If's the same, -then we'll go to next issue the "feeder and related items".
Torgeir
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Hi @tio_pepe,
Molex and other plastic's connector makers stopped "giving" away the "true" CAD files due to the problem of copying their products. This is rare, because this type of connector is very affordable to buy.
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Hi @tio_pepe,
Welcome in here.
There are lots of 3d files of connectors, maybe not all types due to copy rights.
However, serious suppliers make most of their products with standard plugs/connectors that can be supplied from several manufacturers.
Sometimes google are not the best search engine..
Try this one "yahoo":
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @Nils_007,
this thing is very strange for an UM2E+...
As I'll know it takes about 8 - 16 hour to get read of moisture from a roll of filament, I'll guess this is a brand new filament?
Before changing anything, let's try some simple test first.
When you install a filament into the bowden tube, we have to wait for the heater to reach the preset value for the PLA filament. When the heater sense temperature value from firmware setting, the feeder start moving the filament, when we hit "ready" the filament feeding speed are increased and slow down to slow speed just before entering the cold end of the nozzle. During this preparing procedure you may see the heater temperature, say this temperature is 210 deg. Celsius.
During this process, the nozzle are feeding filament, the temperature should be very stable and shall keep this temperature within 1 deg. Celsius! If the temperature jump up and down a high number you may also need to change the temperature sensor (PT-100 a platinum sensor).
If the printer can do this, there is nothing wrong with the temperature control..
Lets see how this go.
Torgeir
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Hi @Nils_007,
This file ending with "name.ufp" is Ultimakers own gcode file that's include a picture of the model.
A "Project file" will end with the extension "name.3mf".
However, this new picture with your information shows that your white PLA filament has attracted some water. The side walls have a ruffled surface that occurs when the water in the filament changes to steam. This causes small pressure increases inside the nozzle which gives this appearance on the surface of the object.
225 degrees Celsius is "normally" too high a temperature for "normal" PLA.
Normal temperature span for PLA is usually (190 - 210) deg. C.
All thermoplastics absorb more or less water directly from the air, so if you have normal humidity "60%" you should not store your filament in such an environment.
There is lots of information about how to remove humidity from the filament, as like this:
https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/dry-3d-printer-filament-wet/
Torgeir
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Hi @Nils_007,
Welcome in here.
In your preference I'll see your printer are an UM 2E+, actually the same printer as I have.
This looks a little strange, actually both of your prints.
The last picture looks like the feed are to high and maybe the extruder temp as well?
Under such condition the filaments will spread out very much.
Do you have had any problem having the first layer to stick well to the bed?
Is this something suddenly happen or?? Any strange thing related to your printer might give further info.
If you'll share your Project file with us (go to file (in Cura when your model is present with your settings) then select "Save Project") and attach it here.
Then "someone" may further investigate your problem.
Thanks
Regards
Torgeir
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Hi @dadoblu_2000,
You should contact your local UM vendor for parts, else you may contact UM support here:
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @madest,
Printing with this type of filament means we are in "experimental" mode. Nylon with 20% added chopped carbon fiber is one of the strongest filaments we can find. Normal print temperatures are: 280 deg C., - to max - 300 deg C. As you say you print with the highest possible temperature, how high a temperature do you use? In your case, you should take a closer look at the cooling fan in the front, which should cool both sides. Like @gr5 said, the cooling fan must be working and in your case it's very important. Also make sure that there is no collected filament "strings" in the inlet side of the fan.
All of what you're describing pointing to the cooling of the upper part of the nozzle.
Are you using any support filament during this printing?
If not, you might be able to improve the air flow "a little" to core no 1..
Thanks
Torgeir.
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Hi Folks,
As I'm in my third day of testing this last Cura 5.7.0-beta.1.
There are issues with this version I did not see yesterday, so be aware of this.
If you slice any model (stl file and all of them do not "leak" or having other issues), then start a playback of the line track during build up. At the last point of the model, Nozzle freeze and time glass shows up -then Cura shut down.
Ufp model Created by this version was uploaded to Cura 5.3.1, the nozzle stopped in same position but this version did not crash.
Model looks ok., but Cura just quit before nozzle leave the printed object.
OFC., did not try to print anything..
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi @RaidenUltimaker,
What happening here is reducing line height, in order to gradually increase the max angle without using a support.
If you look into preview mode (after selecting make overhang printable), zooming into the actual area of your model where there are overhang, you will see that the slicer have increased the line density and the surface of the model are much smoother here.
This is basically what happen when selecting "make overhang printable" under experimental mode pane.
Thanks
Torgeir
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Hi Everyone,
This is "just" a new Beta version of Cura (5.7.0-beta.1), but for experimenters and others have time to evaluate, this one are a big improvement of UltiMaker's own slicer.
I've been testing it with various "known" problem object -and the result was impressing, -really impressing.As I've two UltiMaker printers, I cannot be sure that any other printer cope well with this version, -but really there should not be any big different..
Sure this are a Beta version and people depending of 3D printing production, should stay with their stable version of Cura.
There might be problems that I've not seen, -that's why it's named Cura 5.7.0-beta.1, so be aver about that.So awaiting this new stable version of Cura will be a kind of change IMHO.
Kudos to the Cura team.
ThanksTorgeir
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Hi @Schmordan,
I'll know you have lots of relevant good advises about your problem.However, the printed object above are about the best result we can expect to have printing with a FDM 3D printer.
So, allow me to introduce another "hidden" issue -and this is about printing with white colored filament!This color need more cooling when printed, it is better to stay in the lo end of temperature and speed with this filament.
It's very much related to the color itself, but also to the type of thermoplastic type printed (heat collect properties).
Thermal consequences of color and near-infrared reflectance play an important role in this issue.
Dark color (black are the best) have very good properties for 3D printing, but the lighter the color become will need just a little more time to melt...
White colored filament do not absorb heat as fast as black (or other dark filament) and are also harder to cool down because those radiation properties!
My last take here are about drying this type of filament. You'll need forced heat flow, meaning a food dryer for about 10 hour.
I could say a lot about this issue, but think this should cover whats matter.
This worked best for me.
Anyway, good luck with your printing.Torgeir
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Hi @kpporsche.
Hmm., you probably want some tip about printing with TPU using UM2 types..
@gr5 have lots of stuff about printing with UM printers.
See this one and his posting 2nd of February 23.
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Posted February 23 · The Mighty UM2goBy the way, I've printed ninjaflex (extremely flexible) on a UM2 series. It involves some tricks. One of which is to put a drop of oil on the filament before inserting into the bowden and adding an additional drop every meter or so (about once per hour). I have more explicit instructions on this forum. 90% of people hate the idea of oil going through the nozzle and think it will do something bad like add holes in the print or something but it works perfectly. Perfectly! Trust me. Other things I had to do to get zero underextrusion was to slow down to 10mm/sec (only if you need it absolutely perfect print) and print on the high-side of the recommended temp range. And lots of fan. Also I had to up the flow rate.
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Ultimaker S5 screen ghosting
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi @Faf666,
Yes, the display have this glass included, anyway here's their web site:
https://www.dlcdisplay.com/
You just send a msg in this website.
Thanks