Torgeir

Hi there, From Cura ver. 5.5.0 they implemented some new functions into Cura, here is the actual issue: Excerpt from Cura 5.5.0 text file. ---------------------- "Enable Fluid Motion, Fluid Motion Shift Distance, Fluid Motions Small Distance, and Fluid Motion Angle are settings for printers with smooth motion planners like Klipper." ---------------------- Thanks Torgeir

Hi @borgn, I'll say this was a very interesting object, with quite a few challenges. By learning from the other's experience with this model, I've made another approach. So, as I've another slicer S3D (Simplify 3), I loaded this big model in here and it took a little more than a minute. I was using the oldest version 3.1.0 of S3D (from 2016). This slicer have a built in mesh tools that also can reduce the number of triangles of an object. This futuric ship consisted of more than 27 million triangles, so in order to avoid to much loss of details, I reduced it just to a little more than 3 million of triangles and ~152 Mb. Also made a version with less details and only ~2.5 Mb. The "shipv5.stl" may be used in the (free version of) Autodesk Meshmixer, that's a tool for repairing those errors in this model. Sure this takes some time, but can be done. There are lots of videos on youtube demonstrating the meshmixer. Here are the link to the free version of "Autodesk Meshmixer" https://meshmixer.com/ The model suffer for the vertical posts in a railing around the after part, those are easy seeing missing when sliced. Cura Arackne ver 5.6.0 will show this, but I'll think the version of Cura Master are better suited to show all thous issues when using layer view after model is sliced. Here are a picture of your Ship loaded into Autodesk Meshmixer: Here are another picture of the Ship sliced in Cura 5.6.0 using "both" found in "Special Mode" by selecting "normal" and then "both". Under "Normal" you'll find two other settings, "Surface" and "Both", a handy tools for understanding slicing problems. Here are the reduced files: Shipv5.stl (high res). 150.4 Mb. shipv5.stl Shipv4.stl (lo res). 2.4 Mb shipv4.stl A project file for UM2E+ UM2E_Cura_5_6_0_shipv4.3mf --------------------------------------------- Well, hope this work for you. Good luck. Torgeir

Aha, ok., then it sure making sense. 🙂 Torgeir

Hi @bartek, I've just looked at this special "vase", -kind of interesting. However, are you really using a 0.4 nozzle and 0.6 mm line height? In my opinion, this line height is way to much for a 0.4 mm. Or did I miss something here? Using Cura Ver. 5.60 and found your printer to be a Neptune 1. The profile are: Dyza 1mm vase - fine - 0.6 mm (but your nozzle is 0.4 mm). Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Dana, I've been using the "free personal version" for some years (need to renewed every year). Fusion 360 can be obtained free for personal use and you can export stl files directly to Cura.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Autodesk Fusion 360 for personal use is free online CAD for qualifying non-commercial users as a 3-year subscription. Download Autodesk Fusion 360 for personal use." ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the place to go. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Mr_Stark1981, very, very nice! Thanks for the reply. Torgeir

Hi @Mr_Stark1981 Sure, anything is possible, so in this case you're looking for "surface mode", that you'll find in the menu "Special Modes". Under "Preference" click "Configure Cura", then select "Settings" and chose "Setting Visibility" to "Check All". But you can also search setting "Surface Mode" and the setting become visible. From here you can do lot's of the thing you want... Good Luck. Torgeir

Hi there -and thanks Greg for bringing me into this while in sunny Spain... As this is and old topics, -never had an answer I'll throw in my five pence. I've been printing quite a lot with the 0,25mm nozzle in order to create small object's there are some issues when printing whit this "tiny" nozzles.. I'll normally do not print over a large surface using this small nozzle. With such a size of nozzle I'm printing in a limited area in order to avoid surface dumps.. This is a lesson learned some time ago, printing a tiny film surface of nylon, -including an object. At this time, I've used my original heat bed (glass bed), but the print always failed due to a "bumpy" surfaced glass bed (using my UM2E)! As I very much neded to finish this print for a friend, I'd looked at my UM S3 that have the same print bed size as the UM2E.. Sure, I've swapped the bed between the two and mirackle happend. The day after, I've ordered a new heat bed glas for my UM2E. If this is a problem, -order the new and better glas bed for your UM2+... So, making first layer with a 0.25mm nozzle, in order to print on large surface need a super straight ruler in order to make sure that your heat bed is straight! Sure the bed needs to be calibrated well for such a mission. Sometimes a covered front and top are needed to keep the tempereture right to avoid crimping object etc. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @RealShe_Cheer, Welcome in here and Happy New Year. Well, We'll need to know what printer you have as some printers may not have this commands implemented. Cura does not have an easy way to do this. Lots of people use OctoPrint, here: https://octoprint.org/blog/2022/05/17/new-release-1.8.0/ Or Arduino, but this latter one is a little harder to use. I'll think OctoPrint are the best one for this issue.. Here is a tread covering a few different approaches to send a command and have a feedback from the printer. https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-send-g-code-to-your-3d-printer-the-right-way/ In here are lot's of people with "all" kind of 3D printers, so telling what printer you have and your problem with it may help a lot. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, This cable run on the R/H side (looking into the printer) on both the S3 and S5 -versions (but S5 cable are some inches extended).. The R/H side, inner cover over the stepper motor, are attached the same.. Here's Erin's link of to replace the whole cable for the "print head" for an UMS3.. https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187366-Electronics-Board Here's a link that describe the difference between the various version of S5, S5 R1 and S5 R2 (R - revision).: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667337576879 Here's a link to face book S5 support.: https://www.facebook.com/groups/UltimakerS5/ As @alnavasa just finished his "overhaul" of an UM S5 R1, he might have some valuable tip for you. Well, Happy New Year everyone. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @aag, Here's some video's about your issue. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Replacing+S5+prinhead+cable+eirin#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:539b7388,vid:69T74xZiveQ,st:0 Good luck. Torgeir

Hi @alnavasa, Welcome in here, -and congratulation with an "old" workhorse.. Well, the community may have change some, -but the issue is more about this season time of the year and the celebration.. So to your questions. Yes, your S5 has had a little too much oil, for sure. Some may have thought -a bit too much can't hurt..? Well, such spill will over time will collect all kind of dust the may form some sort of "conductor" that may ruin the functionality of some logic function's of the main board, or just loosen up the glue effect to the silicone/rubber support pads located under/besides of the PCB boards in the printer etc. For the main boards, those pads may act as support to avoid flexing of the print board during installation/removal of the connectors connected to the boards. For the board inside the extruder itself, it is very important to support this PCB with support pads in order to avoid resonance that may destroy the PCB. There is two types of silicone sealer we use in general, Acetoxy silicones and Osime (or neutral) silicones. (A third one exist, but very expensive and seldom used.) Only one of them are to be used in electronics or plastics, the Osime neutral silicones and have no smell. Osime silicones are much better in any aspects but are more expensive. The other Acetoxy silicones, are distinctive by their smell during application as there is a strong acidic, -vinegar smell. This is the cheapest and most used in general, but are dangerous to use for plastic or electronics. Next,what to be used to clean up oil/corrosion solder additives etc. on the PCB's? Here you are only allowed to use Denatured Alcohol or ethanol. This do not harm most type of plastic or PCB's. To clean this things, use a cotton stick (a type that do not loosen the glue fixing the cotton to the stick..) and clean carefully. When the it become colored, swap side and discard (into a fire safe tray/box) when both sides are used. If you work with this thing, make sure to perform this in a place where it no electrostatic build up as small electric spark when touching door handles chair etc. If a room is too dry, this may occur, -but if the humidity are between 60 to 70 percent of humidity in the air, static build up are less prone to happen. Just remember this; "electrostatic build up" can ruin micro controllers and sensitive electronics components. Good to know: PCB's installed into the equipment box are better protected against electrostatic discharge. Use a news paper to cover the work desk (several pages) for the printer to rest on when doing maintenance. Take photos of all details for the ease of re installation and doc references. Just my thoughts around this issue. But it's all up to you. Good luck Torgeir

Hi Vic. @gr5 gave you a very good advice of what to do. In my experience, the bowden bundle wiring might have some answer to your problems.. Actually there are two point's of interest to check out, the bending points close to the extruder and the bending point close to the feeder!!! Those are two point where the bundle/Cable always bend and fail, -close to the extruder -or close to the feeder!!! And the two point's often where wires goes open and fails... This are the two places to look fore problems, .......-always!!! Anyway, good luck. Torgeir

Hi @Pena The noise level test are made to insure that "noise" is not present much, as it can destroy the calibration of the bed. When using a capacitive sensing system like this, nearby noise will cause problem if it exist! This might be nearby WiFi or cellphone etc., but may also include any EMI created by the printer itself. We've seen that the little cooling fan inside the front cover sometimes been the reason for such noise from the printer itself. As your readings fluctuate quite a bit, it might be due to much noise from this cooling fan. I've never seen any "values" that's become a limit causing a warning in this matter. Maybe caused by every individual often have its own level that's change when parts are replaced. Often an experience in the industries in general. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @VidJa Welcome in here. I've also an UM2 Extended.. First, do you have the plus version of the UM2 E+? Or, do you have the old version with the black feeder at the back UM2 E? Looking at the filament sticking out of the "bowden tube" made me think that the extruder cooling fan do not work. This fan "normally" start to run when you switch on the printer the old version UM2. However if you have a "new" + version this fan do not start before the extruder heater sensor reach a preset temperature where this fan should start. If this fan stop working, the upper part of the extruder would slowly be heated due to lack of cooling. This problem will soften the filament some until it be completely blocked. Stringed filament can find it's way into the fan and partially lower the speed or even stop the fan working. The power to the fan may be interrupted due to a broken wire at connector or some place along thus wire bundle. Edit: This fan is the one on the back side of the extruder head (the small 5 VDC fan). Let's see how this go. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @neillymackers, Just forgotten your to answer your question below. .... My question is; what settings if any determine the maximum offset of single walls in general, or in surface mode specifically. .... There is no simple answer on this question, but consider a construction of a RC foil or an air frame. Such constructions often have a defined wall thickness, so the answer are found in measuring in the construction itself. All thous profiles made, are for making the model as accurate as possible, according to filament type, nozzle and printer type (so wall thickness are the limit "normally"). Ofc., An actual single wall is the thickness defined in Cura wall setting. When we come to those special type of filament, as LW-PLA we're approaching experimental mode and here we need to find the proper setting our self. Not an easy task.. The old version of Cura did not have any line "width" adjustment, as the new Cura Arachne have (from ver 5.0 and up). However, for RC printing I'm using the best old version (IMO) Cura 4.13.1. Torgeir

Hi @neillymackers, This is actually a "print mode" (surface mode) I'm often using. The only way to improve layer bonding in this mode are by reducing layer height. You can use, say layer height is 0.1 mm, then go to experimental mode and select "use adaptive layer". Then Cura will reduce layer height in order to make gap/climbing wall printable. This mode reduce print time, but surface finish may suffer somehow. Use Cura "Preview" to inspect your settings, oh., yes I'm using Cura 4.13.1 for RC printing. Skipping the use of "use adaptive layer" will give better overall surface, but will reduce the "sealing" quality of a climbing wall. Sure, this are a little about give and take -but it's your decision that counts. 🙂 I often use this approach for faster appearance checking of all types of models/projects -if this mode is possible to use. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hallo Alex. Nur ein wichtiger Hinweis zum weiß gefärbten Kunststofffilament. Weiß gefärbtes Filament strahlt nicht so viel Wärme ab, die durch den Düsenextruder hinzugefügt wird, wie die dunkleren Farben! Um weiß gefärbtes Filament zu kühlen, benötigen Sie einen Lüfter mit höherer Geschwindigkeit. Vermeiden Sie außerdem, mit dieser Farbe mit einer zu niedrigen Geschwindigkeit zu drucken, da die Strahlung der Düse etwas zusätzliche Wärme erzeugt und eine solche Oberfläche erzeugt. Oft muss man sich auf der unteren Seite der Drucktemperatur befinden, um diese „geschmolzene“ Oberfläche zu vermeiden, wie wir hier gesehen haben. Finden Sie einfach den „Sweet Spot“ für die zum Drucken zu verwendende Temperatur, heiß genug zum Verbinden von Schichten und genau das, außerdem ist eine ausreichende Kühlung wichtig. Danke Viel Glück Torgeir

Hi @annana, @GregValiant put up a good question for you and all off this additional info makes sense to me.. As the printer turn on again after shutting down, mean the printer had a power drop down of some sort and after this drop the power supply now have lo load so voltage go up making the printer to do a new restart. Further, after you selected the bed off your printer work as normal, -meaning that the additional load of power to the bed would lead to voltage drop and make the processor stop working. Ofc. this could be caused by a reduced feeding capacities on the main board, however such problem is very rare and should be easily spotted by inspecting the PCB in this area around the connector input of 24 VDC and the other power consumers as bed connector, nozzle heater connector plus all the stepper drivers. All this "normally" point to power supply problem we've seen many times in here. As you have a relative new UM2, this printer was probably delivered with the Olson block (maybe 50W?), right? A test you could do, is just do a print using the bed at 60 deg. C. using a voltmeter (multi meter) and monitoring the 24 volt during printing to see if the voltage is dropping. It should be quite stable and have no "big" drop of voltage during printing. As this tend to happen during the two or so first layers, it should not take that long to verify. Hope this helps somehow and if you need some schematics, drawing etc. just yell. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Alzibiff, I'll think this is best answered by UM, cause this is not a genetic PVA (poly vinyl alcohol-based) filament -but BVOH (Butenediol Vinyl Alcohol Co-polymer) based filament. I know that RScomponent discontinued this product, not knowing why. Maybe someone else, @Mari_Makes_Stuff, @gr5 knows or anyone? Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Dragon41673, I'll think the the surface print of you model looks quite normal, the wall is super thin at some places where it split and sure some part of the model did not stick well to the bed. Well, any 3mf file you have helps esp. the latest. A picture say more than a thousands of words, -but a 3mf file say more than a million of pictures.... The *3mf file hold the stl file, all of you printer setting you've made in Cura plus filament and printer type.. etc. We normally save the project (*.3mf) file after saving the gcode file -as this hold all of our valuable settings. So sure it helps Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Skas. Welcome in here. My best advice, stay away from Cura 5.40, this advice cause this version of Cura have some nasty issues.. If you just need to use the later version of Cura due to the line width control -then use version 5.2.2 as this version handle support very well. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Dragon41673, Sure, try to print in "Surface" mode, but do not use "Both" function.. If you have a project file from Cura 4.13.1 it's better. In case you have a project file from before the firmware change it is of interest.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Dragon41673, Surface mode is simply printing the walls (inner and outer) without top/bottom and no infill. This mode normally print the outer and inner side nicely and takes "lot of" pressure out of the feeder.. As you have this issue with your printer, -use Cura 4.13.1 -the best stable version of the Cura slicer! Prusa slicer is not a dirty word in here. In addition to Cura, that I've a number of versions of -on my PC. I'm also using S3D (Simplify 3D Slicer). This S3D slicer are used to monitor gcode files just in order to spot an error if there's any, a super nice tool for this issue! I can see there's "some" signs on the model you're printed with the Prusa slicer -and this is why I'd ask to see your project file of your print. Just save your model as a project file (*3mf). This save us/you lots of time and may find a solution to your problem. I'll suppose that this last pictures is printed with the same firmware version as printed with Cura above, right? Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Dragon41673, Sorry to see this mishap. Sometimes a firmware updated can indeed go wrong.. The pictures you've added tells a story -and this is a "special" kind of under extrusion IMO, (As @GregValiant mentioned)! As you've explain, this issues occur exactly at same places over and over.. I'll suggest that the feeder cannot deliver the "commanded flow" at those points due to too lo current to the feeder stepper during printing in such areas. The interesting question is, does your main PCB have a manual current setting or does it have software current settings? The firmware versions have a huge gap in between, sometimes can be an issue.. It would be much easier to evaluate the problem if you share the project file of this object. Edith. It would be very interesting to see your model printed with your printer in "Surface" mode. Thanks Torgeir