Torgeir

Hi Wels-Dragon, You actually have the best slicer! There is no simulator start button for Cura, but there is a drag down ball that you can use to see your sliced model layer by layer. I've put this text on your attached picture. You can drag the ball marker down and see all sliced layers on by one. Alternately, just select any number between 0 and 99 in the layer view window on top of the pole. Here is your picture: Hope this helps. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi saroneh, This screw terminal consist of two blocks and each have 3 terminals. Here is the manufacturer (Phoenix) P/N: 1888690 Also Digi-Key P/N: 277-6062-ND Here is a direct link: https://www.digikey.no/product-detail/en/phoenix-contact/1888690/277-6062-ND/2511095?utm_adgroup=Terminal Edit: Digikey is located all around world, there might be one close to your place. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hallo Max. Machen Sie ein Bild mit den weiblichen Stiften, die Sie benötigen, um die Federschnalle zu überprüfen. Es gibt insgesamt 8 Stifte, die gleichen Stifte, bei denen Sie überprüfen müssen, ob die Stifte gut gelötet sind. Der Stecker, der zum Y-Schrittmotor führt, hat Stifte, sodass diese nicht überprüft werden müssen. Habe auf dem Bild notiert, welche Funktion sie haben. Auf dieser Site finden Sie viele Informationen über das Motherboard, das in Ihrem Drucker installiert ist: https://reprap.org/wiki/File:UltimakerPCB1.5.7.jpg Viel Glück. Torgeir.

Hallo MadMax, Da Sie viele Dinge ausprobiert haben, empfehle ich, die Leistungseinstellung auf der "Treiberplatine" auf der Y-Achse zu überprüfen. Wenn dies zu niedrig eingestellt ist, verliert der Schrittmotor Stufen. Dies kann in zufällige Richtungen geschehen, aber auch nur in eine Richtung. Sie können versuchen, die X- und Y "driver PCB" zu wechseln, um festzustellen, ob sich der Fehler bewegt. Ein Referenzspannungstest wird durchgeführt, um dem Schrittmotor die richtige Leistung zu verleihen. Viel Glück Torgeir

Hi Blizz, Right you are.. 265 % more E step. Your UM2+ use E369: So your new setting will be 369*2.65=977.85 ~ 978 New E step is 978. Send this string to you printer: M92 E978 (CR return) M500 (CR return) Printer will respond "stored" That's all. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi mrtinfy, Interesting hub you have here.. If I understand this right, -I would skip using brim and use PVA glue, this glue is sometimes a must in order to have success. Dilute the glue in water 1:(20-30). You just use a tiny layer and let it dry, sometimes you will need more than 1 layer, but be careful as it can make your print very hard to remove.. PVA glue is the withe colored glue we use for wood, so it should be easy to find. Use the heat bed heated and with this glue. Hmm., Don't you need support for the overhanging part on the outside of the hub? (On the part between the fan blade's root attachment.) Good luck Thanks Torgeir.

Hallo hille3d, Das Problem ist hier auf die Gesundheitsstrahlung von der warmen Platte zurückzuführen. Wenn Sie mit einem Überhang beginnen, der sich sehr nahe an der Platte befindet, ist dies normalerweise eine Folge davon. In Cura können Sie einen Rock verwenden, der breiter als Ihr Überhang und nahe an Ihrer Objektbasis ist. Auch die neuere Version von Cura hat eine neue Art der Verwendung von Krempe. Es wird ein Rand gedruckt, der vom Druckobjekt getrennt ist. Wenn Sie auf diese Weise einen Rock oder eine Krempe verwenden, wird die Wärmestrahlung von der Platte reduziert und ein kleiner Gegenstand sowie ein Überhang in der Höhe „gespart“. Eine andere Möglichkeit, dies zu vermeiden, besteht darin, einfach blaues Klebeband zu verwenden und nicht das Heidebett zu verwenden. Vielen Dank Torgeir

Hi passion4silence, Welcome in here. This one has been reported before in here, Just go to this tread: Thanks Torgeir

Hi tojero, I looked into your previous posting and found more information about your problems. In here you asked 3 questions, just continue this tread.. 1) "If you are printing 40 cubic mm per second you will indeed want the temp at 240C" So where did the example figure of 40mm^3/sec come from? Is that a spec of a 0.8mm nozzle? ----------------------------------------------------- Yes this is the 0.8 mm nozzle. 2) ".......try 0.3mm layer height, 0.8mm line width and 40mm/sec and 210C....." This implies a flow of around 10mm^3/sec. I'm assuming (from the temp) this would be using a 0.4mm nozzle. ----------------------------------------------------- No, this is also a 0.8 mm nozzle. (Here we use lower print speed and nozzle temperature in order to have nicer looking print.) 3) Is there an ideal printing volume flow (or range of) for each nozzle size and material? Would that be a good place to start from? ----------------------------------------------------- Use the default nozzle size: 0.4 mm Use the default print speed: 60 mm/sec. However for detailed printing we may go down to 30 mm/sec. -or even slower. Using PLA and default temperature 200 deg C. (Temperature might be lowered to 180-185 deg C.) The maximum flow for an UM2+ is typically 10 mm3/sec. When using 0.4 mm nozzle. Thanks Torgeir

Hi tojero, Your printer must be a UM2+, right? Ok. First thing first, get read of this filament, use a good known or “recommended” brand of PLA! What you describe here is not a printer issue, -but more likely a filament issue! In fact all of your issues point to filament property deviation. (as high water content. etc) Make sure that there is no remains in the heat block or nozzle when using other type of thermoplastic. At this site you will find material types recommended for Ultimaker printers: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility I’m sure you will see that an UM2+ can really deliver good quality 3D prints. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Cubic, You have certenly tried many thing in order to correct your problem. The problem with the thermocouple is of a special character. All this is because of the short distance between the “hot junction *)” and the “cold junction *)” in your, -well, the UMO design. Let me explain. Using a thermocouple to measure absolute temperature in a setup, ask for a special converter. This is true because a thermocouple is reading a temperature between two point *). This converter is mounted on the top of the UMO extruder. This converter measure the absolute temperature at the green terminal block where the thermocouple (red and yellow) wires is connected. This point is named “cold junction” point. Right here, it is really important to have good thermal and electrical contact here. Say you have a proper electrical contact here, you’ll read a proper voltage here, but temperature is still showing to high. As the temperature (that is transported via the wires from the close by extruder) is not evenly distributed to the “cold junction” point, the temperature read at this point will be wrong and will lead to “calculation error” of extruder absolute temperature. As the sensed temperature is lower than is should be the calculated temperature will show higher than the actual temperature. So I do not think you have an error in your thermocouple, most likely this is just because of little clamping effect at your “cold junction” terminal. Sure, it could be the compensator, but not likely. Just a small note, make a black mark on the extruder to measure with an IR detector, this is what we use in lab for calibrating measurment (ref black body). Ok good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi David, Very interesting this, first I do not have an S5 and neither an UM3 E. But I have a "custom" made UM2.. I've never seen this issue as you explain here, however all what you said make sense and happen. When you said "heat creep", I'll suppose the cold side of the extruder is not cold enough. Sure it is possible, -but this can also be a sign of another problem, the feeder. The problem I've seen is that when printing first levels and ironing, the pressure in the bowden tube increase. For an UM3 this will increase the drag forces, when the filament is pressed upward in the bowden tube. An S5 do not have much of this problem and this is because of the "track line" made by the knurled wheel is on the underside of the looped filament in this printer, while the UM3 types have the "track line" going on the to of the looped filament. This make a huge difference when printing with high pressure in the feeding system. I've many times been thinking, it mus be possible to just swap the two feeder units in order to have same feeding properties as an S5. Just leave the feeder motor (stepper) and swap just the feeder unit(?). This would not change anything in software or whatever, but just improve your UM3 allot.. Well, I do not if ultimaker already made this modification. Well, I did this in 2015 when I built my printer and been used the "inner track" all the time without any issues! Wish you good luck and hope you will have more inputs from the community about this problem. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Dan, Great findings, enjoy the printing in 3D world. If it have problem to move, just check the current the motor is set to, should be about 1200 mA.. Regards Torgeir.

Hi Dan, Voltages Ok., so lets check the wiring to the stepper motors. The pin 1 and pin 2 should have one of the steppers coil, -so pin 3 and 4 the other coil. You'll measure approx 2.0 ohm res. Different steppers might differ slightly. If there's was other fails another error might be seen, so after this part it is the servos to move and sync. Next after this we might have a look on the firmware you have. Torgeir

Hi NBull, I'd understand your situation, this print is really bad, -period! I could not really agree more with Smithy in his assumption, -I'm using Cura 3.6 and Cura Master by @burtoogle. When looking to this print, at first glance, -one would think this is disruptions.. But no -it is not, this “error” is consistent because it is the same happens for many layers, actually it’s looks like the line width changes at some point and does it for N numbers of layers and back again. Even around the corner you see this reduced line width. The only random in here is when it does it and when it stop doing this! For printer failure, a single line can vary much during a single full path so very much a random thing.. So, what can make the line width change, -hmm this should be an easy answer, shouldn't it? Why not give the older version a shot? Sure, I’d zoomed in to you print picture as good as possible. Here you can see some details, a real macro picture would speak clearly.. 🙂 Good Luck Thanks

Hi Spenter, Since this is the first startup of your system, there is a few thing to check.. First, did you install the two safety links? Those two link can be used to cutoff the 24VDC to all heaters and stepper motors. so if this one is missing, you would not have power to the stepper motors to move. During the setup the Z stepper will move toward the z-stop in order to synchronize. If this voltage is not present, no movement of the bed toward the stop, so after a timeout the Z-switch fail is flagged and it will display; "Z switch broken". When turning on the power switch for the printer, you should be able to hear a solid click when the relay is activating. To verify that this voltage is present, do as follows: Also the 24 VDC "switch" the (only one) relay K1 might be faulty, check the TP21 (Test Point) for 24 VDC on the underside of the PCB. You will find the test point close to the heater connector. I'll assume you know how to do this procedure. Lets do this check as a start. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi Cosmin, So, sound is still there when moving the X-axe. What I notice is that the upper pulley on both the X and Y belt from the stepper motors is touching one side of the pulley guide-wall. After some time the surface on the pulley guide wall become very well polished and the friction here, will make it "singing" so to say. "Normally" a belt should never rest on the guide wall at the pulley on both sides of a belt they share. This is very important on short belts. Then check that the belts do not touch guide wall on the stepper pulleys. Also worth to notice is that if the stepper pulley is too much offset v.s. the upper pulley, you can see the belt will twist a little when mowing the extruder head. Actually twist one way for moving right and the other when moving left. Correction here must be done at the pulley on the stepper (adjusting more in, or more out). I sure agree with @NovaStarGX about axis side offset as such offset give lots of friction and make the stepper work hard and 9 mm is a lot of offset. Ok. you have lots of suggestions so good luck with fault finding. Thanks Torgeir

Hi thelemurking, Just been looking and listening to the sound of your printer and must say this is kind of weird.. Sounds reminds about faulty bearing in a stepper motor, however, this could also be something loose inside the extruder unit, as those stepper motors is quite robust. If you move the extruder manually back and forth in X-axis (printer not powered up), is this sound still present in a way. (This sound seems to be worst in the X-axe.) When moving the head manually, there should be just an even humm without any other strange additional sound.. Kind of difficuld to explain using word.. Also, is there any play when you hold the extruder at the lo end, pushing carefully in X-axis and Y-axis. There should be no play when doing this. When the two bearing inside the extruder become worn you may find a little play here. The sound we can hear here comes from the "small stepping" resonance that makes such a strange sound. A stethoscope can be handy for faultfinding such problem. My best guess is something in the extruder, as this is not a belt problem I'll think. How many hour have those two been printing? Good luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi jockcrav, Welcome in here. I just looked at your model in Cura, using X-ray view, here you can see lots of red parts, meaning not connected together with the base of your model. All parts like this must be connected to be properly sliced, if not you'll loose those details. Here is a picture of your model from one side (kind of Z view). The quality of our model must be all joined together. Also the lines are "super" tiny.. Keyword here, use a good 3D drawing tool. Thanks Torgeir

Hi thelemurking, Pleas add a video of your printer when this is going on, make sure you get all four corner from below up to the pulleyes, belts etc. Often such a failure will leave some rubber remains (from above) on the floor at the corner where such a failure occur. A video is a very good way to present such problems. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, Never noted this one, interesting. Is this the X & Y axis on an UM5? If so, is this a 8 mm shaft that is adapted to the old 6mm slide blocks? Right? I've also had problem with loose clamping of the 6mm shafts to the sliding blocks, however I used a peace of paper that cover about 270 deg. around the shaft where it is connected to the block. Done this on all 4 sliding block. Find a type of paper(right thickness) that make enough clamping, do not use to thick paper cause this may make your slider block crack.. BTW, the post it fit well in my UM2 printer.. I've used this for about 1700 hour with no issue. Using same paper lifting both shaft the same distance, so no problem. Well, just so you know about this trick. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tinkergnome, No, no micro stepping, just the fact that line height is halved.. When the initial layers is to be printed the feeder start skipping due to high feed for such a tiny layers. So I’ll have to readjust either flow or initial layer height some to avoid this to happened. When pirinting is started I can only adjust the flow on the printer (UM2). Well, I'll only go to 150 mm/s travel or printing speed as the stepper is at max speed and will start to stall and loose steps if I'll try to go faster. The mega2560 does fine, but the poor heated stepper drivers is kind of hot.. I've tested it up to 250 % increased speed at initial 60 mm/s printing a standing tube in spiralized mode. It made this, but would not do this again. 🙂 But if I just keep 60 mm/ s printing, it is fine. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, So why this kind of modification you may ask?.. Well, most of my objects is small mechanical parts (95-97)%! In fact could be printed on an UM2 Go, the most accurate printer made by UM, (IMO). As I wanted to have some improved finish, this had to be tested. This modification was easy as the pulleyes on both (X & Y) stepper motors had to be changed from 20 tooth 16 tooth and the pulleyes on the two 8 mm axis is changed from 20 tooth to 32 tooth. So instead of 1:1, it is now changed to 1:2. I’ve made (printed) a new stepper adapter in order to use the same belt as before. I’ve also made a change to the Z-axe setting from 8 step to 16 step (installed a link). However, this latter one is not the one to take easy -as it will influence your filament flow demand and a few other parameter as well. After this change (16 step) you cannot see the horizontal lines when printing high resolution with bare eyes. I’ll probably go back to 8 step as Cura do not handle such a modification just like that.. So how was the effect this modification, this is good for small details in the printed object as long as you use 0.25 mm nozzle, but not so much noticeable when using 0.4 mm nozzle. Also, the surface of the object is smoother.. Note: The firmware has to be set using G code in order to set proper status of the printer. Minus, stepper motor makes more noise, so I'll guess implementing the silentStepStic module will fix that.. Probably my next topic, if time allow.. Ok. Here's some pictures: X-axe stepper before modification. X-axe stepper after modification. (Note the adapter plate) Y-axe stepper before modification. Y-axe stepper after modification. Z-axe 8/16 step connector, where a link must be installed to have 16 step mode. Thanks Torgeir

Hi dfrez, This is Dell DA-2 Series P/N: N112H Model: D2950P-01 Just search google using: dell D2950P-01 This unit has the right type of connector, no extra work... 🙂 Good luck Torgeir

Hi dfrez, I'm using a Dell 24 VDC 12.3 Amp ~295 Watt for an UM2. Sure no problem at all. Here's a picture of it together with another 24 VDC PS delivering 360W, kind of the ones used in the new series of printers. Thanks Torgeir