Torgeir

Hi @tio_pepe,
 
Molex and other plastic's connector makers stopped "giving" away the "true" CAD files due to the problem of copying their products. This is rare, because this type of connector is very affordable to buy.
 
 
 
 
 

Hi @Schmordan,

I'll know you have lots of relevant good advises about your problem.
 
However, the printed object above are about the best result we can expect to have printing with a FDM 3D printer.

So, allow me to introduce another "hidden" issue -and this is about printing with white colored filament!
 
This color need more cooling when printed, it is better to stay in the lo end of temperature and speed with this filament.
It's very much related to the color itself, but also to the type of thermoplastic type printed (heat collect properties).
 
Thermal consequences of color and near-infrared reflectance play an important role in this issue.
Dark color (black are the best) have very good properties for 3D printing, but the lighter the color become will need just a little more time to melt...
 
White colored filament do not absorb heat as fast as black (or other dark filament) and are also harder to cool down because those radiation properties!
 
My last take here are about drying this type of filament. You'll need forced heat flow, meaning a food dryer for about 10 hour.
 
I could say a lot about this issue, but think this should cover whats matter.
 
This worked best for me.

Anyway, good luck with your printing.
Torgeir

Hi Vic.
@gr5 gave you a very good advice of what to do.
 
In my experience, the bowden bundle wiring might have some answer to your problems..
Actually there are two point's of interest to check out, the bending points close to the extruder and the bending point close to the feeder!!!
 
Those are two point where the bundle/Cable always bend and fail, -close to the extruder -or close to the feeder!!!
 
And the two point's often where wires goes open and fails...
 
This are the two places to look fore problems, .......-always!!!
 
Anyway, good luck.
 
Torgeir
 
 
 
 

Hi @Asceda,
 
Welcome in here.
 
I'll think this feature only work with the S models of Ultimaker.
But I'm not all that sure..
 
Thanks
Torgeir

Hi @ender3max,
 
Do not use the new arachne slicer for this model, -use Cura 4.13.1 and enjoy!
 
Thanks
Torgeir

Hi @WPLInnovationLab
 
Welcome in here.
 
The problem you have is probably a faulty main PCB, and has to be solved by an Ultimaker dealer close to you as your printer need to be repaired.
 
You may also contact Ultimaker/Makerbot here:
https://support.makerbot.com/s/
 
Thanks
Torgeir

Hi @Daviren,
 
If this is the Z stepper, it looks like there have been a loose crimping at this burned contact.
This might be true as the burn mark is high up on the connector.
With the right tool and a new connector this should be an easy fix..
 
Thanks
 
Torgeir

Hi @Coyote_Blue,
 
Sure I can.
I have been using this output (24 VDC) since 2016 for two 12 VDC fans, connected in serial for cooling the main PCB that have been working perfectly all the time and still do.
Number one problem for the electronics is the "overheat" that is killing the semiconductors, number two problem -is the humidity!
 
Those two fans have cooled the whole upper part of the main board. There is no brownish colored stepper driver circuits and the board look as new after seven year..
 
So, go and use it, this is your best ensourement!  Just use it!
 
This is a direct 24 VDC when power switch is turned on.
 
Thanks
Torgeir