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clinton

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Posts posted by clinton

  1. I want to print a collar with a thread that follows through the chamfer as below. If I cut the thread and the add the chamfer I get the required end result.

    image.png.7b387fc7625c0a14134e3f5d740f3637.png

    This is fine but I would like to add the chamfer first (so that I can use the chamfer as a cutting tool for the nut) and then add the thread. However, when I do it in the order of chamfer then thread I get this

    image.thumb.png.1228e2b5c2d3de751d7ef7c16cfcfc76.png

    Note, the thread stops at the top of the chamfer which means the nut won't go on.

    Is there a way to get to what I want by adding the thread after the chamfer?

     

  2. Thanks. I've seen this video before and it looks like the solution but I can't quite understand how it's done.

    If I split my model into the parts that I want to have different infills, how do I lay them back together on the Cura buildplate? When I open a STL file in Cura it opens the model and puts it on edge anywhere on the buildplate. How can I align them all again?

  3. Thanks, got that now but it doesn't let me change the infill - I thought it did but my memory failed me.

     

    I found this uTube link yesterday, https://youtu.be/DGso6sAIXb0, which seems to describe the method to do what I want but I can't quite grasp how to get the separate .stl files of the hexagon example back together on the Cura build plate. When I open them they end up on edge and I can't see a way of putting them back together accurately.

     

    2018-09-09 11_46_27-CompatWindow.png

  4. I successfully printed V1 of my project today but when I came to print V2, the print started OK but then the filament feed stopped. On closer inspection it seems that the hot end is no longer very hot. When I select the maintenance option and set the nozzle temperature to 250 degC it reports that it's at temp but when I measure the nozzle with a temperature gun it's only about 30degC.

    Something has failed here but I don't know what. 

    Can anyone advise please? It's an Ultimaker 2+

  5. I'm having a few problems getting the two prints to line up. I'm making a speedometer for a child's toy car and I've managed to print the numbers and gradations in white and then print the background in black and it looks good. However, they don't line up even though I told Cura to centre the print each time.

    I print the numbers in white with a 0.25 nozzle then change to a 0.4mm nozzle while swapping the filament to black. That shouldn't confuse it should it?

  6. I would do it this way - flip the ruler over.  it looks MUCH nicer.  Print the black first.  Make the bottom layer height .2mm.  Then as a seperate print print the ruler on top of the black.  Make the bottom layer .3mm and just make the model with a flat bottom - no need to create all the insets where the black was.  In fact it looks much better if you make the ruler flat.

    dcDSC_9083.thumb.JPG.bab9c1b7d42e1611d3cd33d2e675ef66.JPG

    DSC_2035.thumb.JPG.5511b094b4af5ed6c0e4ef8e970099bc.JPG

     

    I've just come back to this and thought I'd give it another try now that I'm a bit more experienced with the Ultimaker. However, I still can't get to grips with this one.

    So I create my lettering in Fusion360 and extrude the letters to 0.2mm.

    I then create the base for them and set Cura with a bottom layer of 0.3mm and print it as separate job. If that's correct so far, what I can't work out is how to get Cura 2.1.3 to print the second job in exactly the right place. I must be missing something I think.

  7. Before I upgraded to Cura 2.1.3 (from 15.something), when I clicked the "Make" button and sent the output directly to Cura it would start Cura if it wasn't already running. If it was already running then it would add the print to bed. At 2.1.3 all that seems to have changed. If Cura is already running, Fusion360 fires up another instance.

    Is there a config setting to stop it doing this?

  8. I'm trying to print a calibration stick - a bit like a ruler. I would like to print the ruler in white and the raised numbers and gradations in black.

    How can I pause the print at a certain point so that I can swap the filament from white to black just before the numbers and gradations start? I admit 3D printing is fascinating but I don't really want to sit watching it waiting to press the pause button ;-)

    • Like 1
  9. I'm printing a fairly long length item which uses supports only (I tried a brim too but that made no difference).

    I have designed the shape in Fusion360 and it is drawn like this:

    Drawing.png.2740ceb0aef43199601fa1e4b6f13ebe.png

    but when I print it I get this

    Print.thumb.jpg.69c08bcfeb3a52968af83b9f9be724d1.jpg

    It's printed flat with the posts pointing upwards and the support structure between the ledge and the glass.

    printing.thumb.jpg.8c5d87ab3990b13cdd5ebf6de418d609.jpg

    It seems worse at each end. The middle of the item isn't too bad. Could it be a calibration issue with the Ultimaker?

    Drawing.png.2740ceb0aef43199601fa1e4b6f13ebe.png

    Print.thumb.jpg.69c08bcfeb3a52968af83b9f9be724d1.jpg

    printing.thumb.jpg.8c5d87ab3990b13cdd5ebf6de418d609.jpg

  10. This is just to share my final results with Fusion 360:

    1. create threads (for example M12x1,75)

    2. push the tip of the flank for a certain amount (depends on the thread size). For the given thread 0,2mm worked fine

    3. round the edges of the flank tips (again 0,2mm was fine)

    4. do the same for the bolt and nut

    short video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IneE1eyvuuc

    I made two test prints and both worked directly from the printbed.

    hth

    Joerg

     

    Tried this a few times now and it works very well. Thanks

    • Like 1
  11. Thanks onkelgeorg, I'll give that a try. I was doing OK with threads using the Ultimaker filament but I've just tried the same thing using Verbatim filament (much harder to get to stick to the glass by the way), the threads now no longer work as they are far too tight. Different characteristics of the Verbatim obviously - not sure I'll bother with Verbatim again.

    It'll be a good test to try your technique described in the video on Verbatim.

    • Like 1
  12. I've played around with threads a bit more and I can now make good fitting threads without any adjustment. If I'm printing a thread then I make sure I set Cura to print in Normal or High. when the print is complete I brush round the thread with a fine wire brush (brass) and they fit very well. I'm using an Ultimaker 2+ with the 0.4mm nozzle.

  13. I've run a couple more tests using Fusion360.

    I have a pipe with a M30x1.5 thread on the outside. I then create a ring which has an internal diameter of 30mm and on the inside of that I create a M30x1.5 thread.

    After printing, the ring is too tight on the pipe.

    The next test was to give the ring an internal diameter of 30.2mm and the apply a M30x1.5 thread. After printing, the ring is again too tight on the pipe.

    After playing around with Fusion it appears that no matter what size I make the internal diameter of the ring, as soon as I apply a M30x1.5 thread, that's what I get. Applying the thread changes the internal diameter of the ring back again and makes it 30mm. All that's happening is I'm getting a thicker wall on the ring and the internal diameter stays the same at 30mm.

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