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Everything posted by Plushberry

  1. i also used this page to change the temp sensor definitions, though I have noticed that there are three temp sensors defined. (and i am not sure what the third one is there for, i only have one hotend, not two) https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly I think this is likely where the issue is stemming from, unless there are other methods to determine the source of the issue.
  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLLci32tHA4 i followed this video, as well as modifying the firmware to account for the different kind of thermistor. (Im using marlin for the firmware)
  3. I did try the PID values that are listed in the firmware changes as well, but no luck.
  4. I have upgraded my ultimaker2E with an e3d 6v hotend as well as a titan extruder to make the system a direct drive. Everything appears to be wired correctly, but there seem to be issues with the firmware in regards to the temperature sensor. I have measured the resistance of the thermistor as well as the heat cartridge, and both have values well within their tech specs, so the issue is not likely to be a hardware issue. The problem I am coming across is that whenever I try to do any heat up process, whether it be printing or changing material, the printer appears to take over 5 minutes to heat up according to the progress bar on the display. After about 5 or 6 minutes, maybe a bit more, i get an E03 error, which is a heater error. I have modified the firmware using the following two lines from the e3d tutorial https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2#Firmware_Changes #define MAX_HEATING_TEMPERATURE_INCREASE 0.1 //[E3D] original value 10 #define MAX_HEATING_CHECK_MILLIS (90000) //[E3D] original value(30 * 1000) unfortunately, this has not apparently helped, and I am not sure where to go from here.
  5. the pribts came out fairly well. only flaw is some slight holes in part of the walls as will be visible in the images. if there is a way to fix this please let me know.
  6. it seems it was indeed the coupler. I have been printing the architectural model parts and they seem to be coming out fairly well
  7. it seems it was indeed the coupler. I have been printing the architectural model parts and they seem to be coming out fairly well
  8. I replaced the coupler and the printer seems to be doing fine for now. I have notoced though that one of the belts has little to no tension on it. I will update in the morning when the print is finished to see if the deffinition looks good
  9. here is the coupler. I think ai will need to replace it anyways because pulling it out of the hot end caused some damage to the exterior anyways. Please let me know how I should proceed.
  10. theres are the results from my pulls from left to right being first to last. For some reason the second time the fillament seemed to have broken inside thoug I coudnt see any bits of fillament in the coupler. the third pull I pulled while the temp was at about 105 which is why it came out elongated.
  11. Okay. I will try a couple pulls with PETG and send pictures of the results. The coupler seems to be fine, still fairly white in color.
  12. I used PLA for my pulls, though as i mentioned I have replaced the nozzle since to a new one. How do I check the coupler exactly?
  13. Hello everyone, I have been printing with this printer with relatively high success for all of my previous prints. i switched to PETG, and didnt have an issue printing with that either. As soon as I went back to PLA, i began running into trouble. I am trying to print pieces for an architectural model for school but so far the printer has not been able to make it past the first layer successfully. I have not tried the file in a few days, since I am trying to fix the printer. Today I did many minicaltests to see if the printer was working better (I originally thought the issue may have been high tension on the drive gear) and I got inconsistent results. For some reason the printer seemed to be working fine when I was staring at it as it printed but when I let it run by itself, it is unable to properly finish the last few layers of the calibration. I have performed the atomic pull a few times and even replaced the nozzle, so I do not think it has anything to do with the previous material, though I may of course be very wrong there.
  14. I was still having trouble with taking the tube out so i just fed it with more filament untill the broken end had been pushed out.
  15. from what end are you struggling with? From the head, if you heat up the nozzle first then, loosen the 4 thumb screws. this makes it easier to come out if filament is stuck. I was having trouble with both ends, but i didn't try loosening the thumb screws so ill try that next time.
  16. I am having trouble getting the tube disconnected, i tried following the dissasembly instructions but the tube is giving me alot of resistance
  17. i figured it out, the build plate was just not calibrated. afterwards ive printed many things with the glow fill and it works pretty well. now unfortunately the fillament has broken off inside the feeding tube and im not sure how to get it out.
  18. I think the nozzle may be clogged becuase my prints are not staying on the build plate and the layers are not filling in correctly. I just printed a large object that took about a day and a half to complete in the colorfabb glow in the dark filament. I was going to start printing out the torque wrench to install the olson block but that's when i noticed the lack of print quality compares to previous prints. The large print came out just about fine but now the prints arent coming out at all.
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