AreDigg

I have printed a lot with ninjaflex on the ext2+, and oil makes wonders. But one has to be careful, the oil must not seep into the feeder, I realized that after a while some of the oil dripped into the feeder wheel, and thus negating the effect from having a slick Bowden. Oil in the nozzle seem also to make a more uneven temp exchange. The small plastic dust created from the knurling wheel tend also to love the oil. I now got a more slippery Bowden tube from 3dsolex and it seem like it helps with most semi flex plastic, but I still add a little oil for ninjaflex. I use a bit isopropanol occasi

Record = build plate? Have you adjusted and leveled the build plate?

It is how stepper motors work, but halve the retraction speed and it will be much more quiet.

No, I haven't tried it. I just read about it. But now maybe I should! With 2 mm nozzle and 1 mm layer height, the movement speed should not need to be more than 50mm/s. Halve the layer and double the speed would still be possible, the question is if the nozzle really is able to melt the plastic fast enough, and the extruder are able to keep up!

PID settings should not primarily affect speed? It would stabilize the temperature and thus increase the quality of the print as far as I understand. 3dsolex matchless nozzles have better heat transfer, so can be used to print faster. And they come up to 2mm nozzles. So if you are able to get a extruder fast enough and efficient heater, I think I have read that it is possible to push around 100 mm³/s of plastic, which is an insane amount! For 750g of PLA you will empty the reel in around 1,5-2,0 hours!

I think kmanstudios have it explained, there are other issues as well. Slight over extrusion cause buildup of material here and there. When object structure changes, the slicer could decide that another direction of the nozzle is better and it will meet the excess material. Also the effect of cooling and curling are emphasized by the gradual cooling of material. When the nozzle then pushes on the now slightly expanded material, the build plate tends to be pushed down a slightly bit while the nozzle lays the material. But when the nozzle moves when not printing, the build plate are back up and

I try to find out where to get an extra motor similar to the one in the UM2+ extruder in an inexpensive way. I found the model number 17hd6482-01n, but in the Moons catalog it does not exist. The number seem to refer to a 1,8 degree, stator length type 6, 4 wires, and electric variation 82, and mech variation 01n according their catalogue. That does not tell me much. Some places it says the motor is a geared one, but I don't think so it does not look like it is geared, however the shaft has a gear hob, which I rarely see and I am not sure how to make one easily.

Nylon does not like acidic or hot water, but clean room temperate water should only swell it slightly.

I use 40ºC as bed temp for Ninjaflex and it works great. Glass transition temp for flexible materials should be well below room temp, otherwise they would not be flexible.

There is an other issue with ngen flex, which is not related to how unhealthy, but the smell of it would likely put off someone to put it into the their mouth. I haven't tried to taste it, but if it gives off slightly the taste as the odor, I would try other materials first.

I guess it depends also how flat your build plate is. Do you stick the buildtak to a glass plate or something else? The clips pushes the plate down more on the corners than in the centre so it will be the tallest point on the plate. But if your plate is stiff enough it should not matter too much as long as it is even.

By accident I found out that hot air (I use a blower with temp setting at 300℃) does create a similar effect as acetone. The same seem to be the case with ngen flex. Of course the effect of the the light blow and gravity must be taken into account. But it is not too difficult and compared to acetone is almost instant.

This is the MSDS for Ngen Flex http://ws.eastman.com/ProductCatalogApps/PageControllers/MSDS_PC.aspx?Product=71107028

I asked about this when I bought my UM2, and apparently there was a design change and newer versions don't have those holes. I designed my own guide to use on the other screws (switch to a longer screw), but have since then lost the original files.

Did not see you had replied before now. I use colorfabb PLA at 200℃ and bed at 60℃ with buildtak. I have not have any problem with it not sticking.