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I have printed a lot with ninjaflex on the ext2+, and oil makes wonders. But one has to be careful, the oil must not seep into the feeder, I realized that after a while some of the oil dripped into the feeder wheel, and thus negating the effect from having a slick Bowden. Oil in the nozzle seem also to make a more uneven temp exchange. The small plastic dust created from the knurling wheel tend also to love the oil. I now got a more slippery Bowden tube from 3dsolex and it seem like it helps with most semi flex plastic, but I still add a little oil for ninjaflex. I use a bit isopropanol occasi

I try to find out where to get an extra motor similar to the one in the UM2+ extruder in an inexpensive way. I found the model number 17hd6482-01n, but in the Moons catalog it does not exist. The number seem to refer to a 1,8 degree, stator length type 6, 4 wires, and electric variation 82, and mech variation 01n according their catalogue. That does not tell me much. Some places it says the motor is a geared one, but I don't think so it does not look like it is geared, however the shaft has a gear hob, which I rarely see and I am not sure how to make one easily.

There is an other issue with ngen flex, which is not related to how unhealthy, but the smell of it would likely put off someone to put it into the their mouth. I haven't tried to taste it, but if it gives off slightly the taste as the odor, I would try other materials first.

This is the MSDS for Ngen Flex http://ws.eastman.com/ProductCatalogApps/PageControllers/MSDS_PC.aspx?Product=71107028

When looking at Geerts font it is very similar to the OCR type fonts. I guess that also makes sense, they are made to be legible in poor circumstances. I guess using them in low resolution or small 3D prints can be beneficial.

Is there a way to see what is stored after an "adjust build plate" is done? I changed to a slightly thicker build plate, and after adjusting I still had to use "baby stepping" up to 0.35 just to get the nozzle to extrude. It literarily is digging up the plate. I am using 16.08.2 on the um2e+. I tried to adjust with even higher gap, but it seem like it is not storing the newer values anymore.

Being AC motors both frequency and voltage is somewhat critical, and using a transformer or switcher will cause problems. I doubt you will find some with dual voltage (in that case you should be very careful with the quality). I would buy it from Europe or domestic or another country where 220-240V 50Hz is the norm, unless they specifically offers these voltages/frequencies.

I print with HT on 265C, but I have used 260C and it wasn't more brittle – but had to print at a slightly slower speed. To make really tough parts I increase the flow, it really benefits the HT. However increased flow will also sometimes give excess material, so be careful with the adjustments especially if your objects should look good. Also like XT and nGen, material sticking to the nozzle becomes brown and makes ugly spots on light colors. For even tougher parts increasing to 100% infill makes them almost indestructable, and thicker perimeters are also helping. Even if you print only at