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Everything posted by AreDigg

  1. I have printed a lot with ninjaflex on the ext2+, and oil makes wonders. But one has to be careful, the oil must not seep into the feeder, I realized that after a while some of the oil dripped into the feeder wheel, and thus negating the effect from having a slick Bowden. Oil in the nozzle seem also to make a more uneven temp exchange. The small plastic dust created from the knurling wheel tend also to love the oil. I now got a more slippery Bowden tube from 3dsolex and it seem like it helps with most semi flex plastic, but I still add a little oil for ninjaflex. I use a bit isopropanol occasi
  2. Record = build plate? Have you adjusted and leveled the build plate?
  3. It is how stepper motors work, but halve the retraction speed and it will be much more quiet.
  4. No, I haven't tried it. I just read about it. But now maybe I should! With 2 mm nozzle and 1 mm layer height, the movement speed should not need to be more than 50mm/s. Halve the layer and double the speed would still be possible, the question is if the nozzle really is able to melt the plastic fast enough, and the extruder are able to keep up!
  5. PID settings should not primarily affect speed? It would stabilize the temperature and thus increase the quality of the print as far as I understand. 3dsolex matchless nozzles have better heat transfer, so can be used to print faster. And they come up to 2mm nozzles. So if you are able to get a extruder fast enough and efficient heater, I think I have read that it is possible to push around 100 mm³/s of plastic, which is an insane amount! For 750g of PLA you will empty the reel in around 1,5-2,0 hours!
  6. I think kmanstudios have it explained, there are other issues as well. Slight over extrusion cause buildup of material here and there. When object structure changes, the slicer could decide that another direction of the nozzle is better and it will meet the excess material. Also the effect of cooling and curling are emphasized by the gradual cooling of material. When the nozzle then pushes on the now slightly expanded material, the build plate tends to be pushed down a slightly bit while the nozzle lays the material. But when the nozzle moves when not printing, the build plate are back up and
  7. I try to find out where to get an extra motor similar to the one in the UM2+ extruder in an inexpensive way. I found the model number 17hd6482-01n, but in the Moons catalog it does not exist. The number seem to refer to a 1,8 degree, stator length type 6, 4 wires, and electric variation 82, and mech variation 01n according their catalogue. That does not tell me much. Some places it says the motor is a geared one, but I don't think so it does not look like it is geared, however the shaft has a gear hob, which I rarely see and I am not sure how to make one easily.
  8. Nylon does not like acidic or hot water, but clean room temperate water should only swell it slightly.
  9. I use 40ºC as bed temp for Ninjaflex and it works great. Glass transition temp for flexible materials should be well below room temp, otherwise they would not be flexible.
  10. There is an other issue with ngen flex, which is not related to how unhealthy, but the smell of it would likely put off someone to put it into the their mouth. I haven't tried to taste it, but if it gives off slightly the taste as the odor, I would try other materials first.
  11. I guess it depends also how flat your build plate is. Do you stick the buildtak to a glass plate or something else? The clips pushes the plate down more on the corners than in the centre so it will be the tallest point on the plate. But if your plate is stiff enough it should not matter too much as long as it is even.
  12. By accident I found out that hot air (I use a blower with temp setting at 300℃) does create a similar effect as acetone. The same seem to be the case with ngen flex. Of course the effect of the the light blow and gravity must be taken into account. But it is not too difficult and compared to acetone is almost instant.
  13. This is the MSDS for Ngen Flex http://ws.eastman.com/ProductCatalogApps/PageControllers/MSDS_PC.aspx?Product=71107028
  14. I asked about this when I bought my UM2, and apparently there was a design change and newer versions don't have those holes. I designed my own guide to use on the other screws (switch to a longer screw), but have since then lost the original files.
  15. Did not see you had replied before now. I use colorfabb PLA at 200℃ and bed at 60℃ with buildtak. I have not have any problem with it not sticking.
  16. Why not look at the Filastruder, it is quite inexpensive filament extruder. Also Filabot, but price wise in a different ballpark. There are also a dozen kickstarter projects as well, with their inherent risks involved. I have also seen several projects on instructable.com.
  17. Not only cool, but very well laid out and pedagogic without becoming boring.
  18. Yes, that is how I do it. Be a bit careful, if you move it to far it is not visible because you effectively are pushing the build plate down with the nozzle, but you have very good control.
  19. I have also found this to be a simplify3d thing. 100% infill is not making the layers "100%". But instead increasing top or bottom layers will make the object solid.
  20. I changed the flow after starting to use buildtak. I do the full bed leveling occasionally and then down to where the paper stops moving. However after changing nozzles I use the feature from tinkergnome fw, "Adjust Z position". First cleaning the nozzle, and then move it to the point where it touches the build plate with no gap (visually eyeballing it). Then as this function gives you actual numbers, I dial it back 0,2 mm if using ABS or copolyesters like ngen, or 0,1 for PLA or similar types. It is much faster and I feel I have better control. So far my buildtaks have died of old age inst
  21. Another interesting concept is this https://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com I have ordered one of these but they only plan to make a version for 1,75 mm, not 2,85. So a conversion is needed for ultimaker.
  22. I think this is a decent reference (look at Marlin when checking for Ultimaker): http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code I find it also helpful to take a simple object through a slicer and look at the g-code it outputs. Also what is nice to know is that X0 Y0 Z0 is the location in the left front corner, at the height you set when leveling build plate.
  23. I used this write-up as inspiration to be able to use my Ultimaker as a plotter. But modified the output from dxf2gcode slightly so I could use it with the SD card. I did not use Inkscape or pronterface, but used online to convert svg to dxf. It works great, however I have to look at how to make dxf2gcode optimize the plotting, as you can see from the video it does not follow the logical fastest path. Could be because it is meant for milling and cutting hardware. It seem also to use the F-rate for Z-axis for retracted head movement as well, but I may just hardcode that in the g-code settin
  24. I believe they are widely available for long time already. I have the SR300, and got it last spring. I was considering the R200 as well at that time, but Intel did not want to ship it to my country for some odd reason. For USD99 it is a bargain, but if you are going to use the software from the SDK be aware that they are quite buggy (they have improved however) and demand a lot from the USB3 bus. The resolution is not amazing, but it does work. For the R200 there are now available quite a lot of third party software. I have also the Occipital mobile scanner, and it perform better.
  25. Really, that's the sheets? Those are readily available in many office supply stores. I have been looking for something better than buildtak for nylon filament. I will try these.
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