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AreDigg

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Everything posted by AreDigg

  1. Another thing to think about is to go down on nozzle size, removing support printed with 0.25 size is markedly better than I.e. 0.40 mm.
  2. When looking at Geerts font it is very similar to the OCR type fonts. I guess that also makes sense, they are made to be legible in poor circumstances. I guess using them in low resolution or small 3D prints can be beneficial.
  3. In your case I don't think slower speed is the solution, but enough time to let the previous layer to cool before you print the next. Low temperature and higher cooling. If you think the infill is ruining the print you could always print with a thicker shell. It is some time since I used Cura, but I think you can also lower the infill print speed.
  4. PLA cools rather quickly. I am not sure how to do it, but during transition, layer height should be lower and temp higher (maybe even turn off fans), as it seem like they are not bonding properly, probably due to the time it takes for the switch.
  5. It does look like a jewel, and the packaging emphasizes that! I am not sure if I will put it on display rather than in my printer.
  6. Is there a way to see what is stored after an "adjust build plate" is done? I changed to a slightly thicker build plate, and after adjusting I still had to use "baby stepping" up to 0.35 just to get the nozzle to extrude. It literarily is digging up the plate. I am using 16.08.2 on the um2e+. I tried to adjust with even higher gap, but it seem like it is not storing the newer values anymore.
  7. Surely a thread about threads cannot go in so many directions? Sorry, now I'm screwed and you all think I am nuts. Yeah, I read through this thread hoping for some puns!
  8. I would avoid PLA as it is biodegradable. Maybe it is ok in distilled water. The best are all oil based plastics which can last for decades or 100-1000 years in water. But all plastics do absorb water to a degree, but in your case it should not matter much. I would avoid nylon. HDPE/PET are commonly used in water storage containers, but ABS should work just fine for your purpose.
  9. Now I don't use cura but simplify3d (which I recommend to check out), but when the support of the slicer is limited, I also use Autodesk Print Studio which do supports in a very different way. But what about investing in a dual nozzle printer and use soluable material? I understand you can't post pictures of your projects. But some example pictures of similar where your issue is shown would help.
  10. The clips will bend the plate somewhat anyway. I doubt you can get a perfectly even glass plate. As long as you calibrate and have a slightly higher first layer, it is not an issue. If however you need the first layer to be perfectly flat, i.e. less than 0,05 mm, you are in the wrong ballpark.
  11. I have not tried this (neither with HT or taulman t-glase/bluprint), but it may be working: http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html
  12. I use this in Simplify3D, although it is not automatic. Very practical for boxes with rounded/chamfered edges. It would be cool if given a set of settings the slicer could select by itself the one with highest quality while retaining a sensible speed. The same goes with more adaptive control of the infill.
  13. Anyone got any good settings on steelfill? I printed some parts, but they crumble like cream crackers when you apply a little pressure on them.
  14. AreDigg

    Simplify3D

    I guess you need one more \n"} at the end?
  15. Set the "Scale" in the STL export window to 1000 for mm or 100 for cm. Blender by default doesn't use units, but one unit is usually interpreted as 1 m, but imported in most other software as cm or mm (if using units options of "None" or "Metric").
  16. I have used 0,4 nozzle and like it, it looks and feels silky. The temperature is very sensitive how silky it becomes, and you can use temp to control its surface.
  17. R/C aircraft with 50 kgs useful payload? I wouldn't bother to even itch about it if the reward is a measly 100$. Have you flown an UAV/RC/Model plane before? Any background from aerospace design at all?
  18. Being AC motors both frequency and voltage is somewhat critical, and using a transformer or switcher will cause problems. I doubt you will find some with dual voltage (in that case you should be very careful with the quality). I would buy it from Europe or domestic or another country where 220-240V 50Hz is the norm, unless they specifically offers these voltages/frequencies.
  19. I have used tinkergnome for long time, and there are really no big problems. Of course you can watch the Github for currently reported issues on the firmware to get an idea. I keep a copy of the 15.x Cura to install it.
  20. I print with HT on 265C, but I have used 260C and it wasn't more brittle – but had to print at a slightly slower speed. To make really tough parts I increase the flow, it really benefits the HT. However increased flow will also sometimes give excess material, so be careful with the adjustments especially if your objects should look good. Also like XT and nGen, material sticking to the nozzle becomes brown and makes ugly spots on light colors. For even tougher parts increasing to 100% infill makes them almost indestructable, and thicker perimeters are also helping. Even if you print only at 260C I think having the extra i2k beneath the teflon is a must, just remember that for the 2+ models you would need either a spring or a custom part as the part above the teflon is only one size and will not fit with the stock teflon and i2k at the same time.
  21. I have attempted to print with a 0,1 mm nozzle. While it is possible, you will need to turn down the flow rate, and for larger prints it will almost certainly clog and stop extruding at some point. You should probably clean both the Bowden and nozzle before every print, any debris will cause problems. But for smaller high detail prints the result will be great when they work.
  22. AreDigg

    Simplify3D

    I have tweaked a lot of the settings for my UM2+Extended and thought I could share the profile. Ultimaker 2+ Extended.fff.xml Maybe a help and a starting point for some. Should work for non-extended as well by editing to the correct height.
  23. I have extended, and surely the taller you get more unstable the print will be if they are thin. After having it for over 6 months now, I guess I have printed parts taller than 20 cm just 5-6 times, so if it really is worth it? That depends. The few objects (statues, vases) does really stand out when they are just that bit bigger. I also think the extended version look a bit cooler. If you buy it however, when it nears the last few cm in a 30 cm build, go out for a walk, or do something else, because it may give you a heart attack when watching and just thinking "will it fail now?"
  24. I print HT with bedtemp of 80˚C and PVA glue on glass or use buildtak.
  25. I use e3d nozzle, just like the one on the right in your picture.
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