Marcel2016

Ok, is there any information how much current the board can handle? Does the board have an overtemperature cut-off for the heater? I´m running the UM2 in an enclosed area, so the electronics become hotter than normal.

Has anyone tried to use a 50W heater cartridge on UM2 with Olsson Block? The 25W heater is too weak in many cases. Could this one be used for both small and big nozzles? Or will the temperature overshoot at 0.25 mm nozzle and a speed of 50 mm/s? I´m using nozzles from 0.25 mm to 0.8 mm. How fast can you print with UM2+ 35W heater? The UM2 25W heater can go up to about 50 mm/s at 0.4 mm nozzle.

There is a relation between nozzle diameter and layer height. Multiply layer height by 4 or 5. This will give you the suitable nozzle diameter. For example: layer height 0.2 mm x 4 = 0.8 nozzle You can test different layer heights and nozzle combinations, but this simple formula will give good results.

Good idea neotko. During the last prints I could do a bit of fine tuning. It showed that 812.45 E-steps was too much. Especially at top layers and small holes. Now I use 787 E-steps.

Nice link. Thank you. For calculating the new E-steps I used the old settings. The number of resolution steps remain the same. Only feeder gear diameter and gear ratio change. The formula for calculating E-Steps results 912.17. I set it like this and extracted 200 mm of filament. The measured length was more, so this gives a factor 0.89. So the actual E-steps is 812.45. But the problem was how to change the E-steps in the printer firmware. I´m sorry, as the posts have become a bit confusing. Now it works. Thank you at all for the support.

Ok, thank you for your ideas so far. I downloaded the newest version of tinkergnome´s firmware. The number of E steps is set on the UM2 display. Seems to work, but the extrusion rate is much too high. During UM2 filament change the extracted length is 7.5 cm longer than the bowden tube. I wonder why? Extruded 10 cm of filament and recalculated the E steps. Now I´m doing a test print. Looks like it is still a bit too much. But this depends on the feeder tension. If it is tightened, the extruder gear grinds into the filament. And the gear diameter becomes a bit smaller. I think, that´s why e3d calls it "effective diameter":O Here is a picture of the titan extruder mounted on the machine. The grey thing is a filament cleaner. On the UM2 it has to be mounted upside down. I used the stock feeder motor and a printed 1.5mm Nema17 spacer plate.

Hi guys, I need your help. Just changed the Ultimaker 2 feeder to e3d titan extruder. This is a geared extruder with a 3:1 gear ratio. It uses MK8-like feeder wheel (diameter 6.7 mm). So the feeder motor has to do more steps to extrude the right amount of filament. The multiplier has to be 3.58 (original steps x 3 x 8 / 6.7). I downloaded Arduino IDE and opened Marlin.ino. But where do I have to change settings? I tried the following: Tab configuration.h #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,282} ->#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0,200,1010} - does not work, steps remain 282 Tab configuration_adv.h #define STEPS_MM_E 836 -> #define STEPS_MM_E 2508 - does not do anything? Bowden length is set to 2520 (3.58 x 705 mm) to use the Ultimaker2 filament change function. Max. Limit set to 3000. It is possible to print, if the flow rate is set to 358%. This covers that the calculation of multiplier 3.58 fits quite well. But with this compromise, I think many things are set wrong. For example the max. extrusion speed, motor acceleration and so on. So this has to be fixed properly. Any ideas how to do?

Thanks gr5 for the information on UM filament. There is no Ultimaker PLA filament left. I used the rest of the spool for testing. Verbatim filament is quite similar, but the prints show uneven color distribution on surfaces. On youtube there is an interesting video for testing filament. I tried this, too. And noticed the same filament-breaking-behavior. The filament starts to break after some time after stretching. So, I always unfeed the filament after printing. Until now, it works. Even on a large (140 grams) print. Of course, this can´t be a solution of this problem. This just lets me use the rest of Verbatim filament.

Ich verwende einen PTFE Schlauch mit 6mm außen und 4mm Innendurchmesser. 6/4 mm gibt es als Druckluftschlauch. Der ist etwas steifer. Einfach mal googlen nach "6 mm ptfe tube" Zumindest mit PLA funktioniert das hervorragend. Flexibles Filament könnte aufgrund des größeren Innendurchmessers evtl. hängen bleiben?

The Ultimaker filament came with the printer December 2015. The Verbatim PLA was used immediately after arrival. I don´t know how long the filaments had been stored before. How can I check this?

I will test PLA-HT from Colorfabb. Waiting for delivery now. After some testing with the white Verbatim PLA, it looks like the problems have something to do with retraction. Printing this small thing always causes breaks of the filament inside the bowden tube. During this print the printer retracts very often in a short time. This means that the same section of the filament is moved forward and back several times. It was not possible to see which print layers cause the break. Because the filament doesn´t break inside the feeder, but later in printing inside the tube. So I marked the filament with a color marker. It showed that the filament breaks where the printer had done retractions before. The solid bottom does not cause the filament to break. I tried to print some other things without retraction, even a big square at full bed size. The filament never broke. That´s why I think there is a relation with (much) retraction and filament breaks. Most parts that need to be printed are small and need a lot of retraction. Adjusting the feeder tension did not change anything. So far, I hope the colorfabb filament will be better to print.

Hi guys, I´m printing on an Ultimaker 2 since four months now. For about three weeks I have problems with the filament breaking repeatedly. I found this: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17173-filament-always-breaking https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17173-filament-always-breaking But ist doesn´t help in this case. The used filaments are Ultimaker PLA silver (that came with the machine) and Verbatim PLA white. Both filaments show the same behaviour. Most times the fimanet breaks inside the bowden tube. Two times it broke just before entering the feeder. After unfeeding the filament, there is a length of about 20-30 cm where it is hard and extremely brittle. You can break with one finger and it makes a cracking sound. So I break away the brittle part, feed it again and it works for some time (between half an hour and about 4 hours). Then the same: filament breaks and again a section of brittle filament after the break. On the first spool of filament (Ultimaker PLA), it started with about one third of the filament left. So I thought, this happened due to the lower diameter towards the center of the spool. But after changing to a new spool (Verbatim PLA), it happened again after about four hours of printing. The Verbatim filament was packed in a sealed bag with desiccant. I unpacked it just before printing, so it was dry. Both filaments have a certain length of brittle material. It´s not the whole spool. And as this happens accidentally, I have no idea what is causing the problem. Can you help?

Good idea. But when resistance within the feeding line is too big, the filament curls out of the feeder and gets totally stuck in the feeder housing. I think the feeder lining inside the feeder needs to be more close to the filament. So that it can´t bend and "escape". I tried ninjaflex last week and didn´t have any success.