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Hi, the current relase of Cura 15.04.5 / Linux has inherited the bug from the previous version that does not send the active object to the printer. Instead of printing, it just tries to save the file as gcode file on a randomly chosen USB connected drive. It would be nice if Curea would be able to print directly on a connected printer. The other issue is weirder. Cura appears to have some built-in size/complexity limiations or other major issues to process STL files that are larger than a couple of MB. If you run into such a case, the progress indicator in the GUI does not indicate any progress or does not show up at all. does not have any effect and neither opens a file dialog to select a file name or location, nor does it write GCode. This bug is nasty because Cura doesn't give any feedback to the user; you don't know if it has crashed and it gives no error message in the GUI, it just does not write GCode. Though you can still click on menu items or rotate the active object. If I start Cura from shell, I get this error message: Traceback (most recent call last): File "/usr/share/cura/Cura/gui/mainWindow.py", line 85, in self.Bind(wx.EVT_MENU, lambda e: self.scene.showSaveGCode(), i) File "/usr/share/cura/Cura/gui/sceneView.py", line 346, in showSaveGCode if not self._engine.getResult().isFinished(): AttributeError: 'NoneType' object has no attribute 'isFinished' If Cura can not process large/complex files, I'd like to know where these limits are. Thanks!

Thanks again for your hints. Though this is just not what I am experiencing. The ABS filament I had been using did either stick well on a completely cleaned glass plate (see above, ethanol, not water), or on thick layers of (mostly dried) glue. Glue and wet napkin - glue becomes like grease. Zero adhesion on a thin film of glue. Zero adhesion if glue was diluted with water. Again it's different with the "ICE PLA Wondrous White 2.85 mm 750 g" which sticks on nothing, neither on a clean print bed nor on any thick or thin layer of glue. …and that's my point. It's erratic. Without changing print bed levelling, it looks like this (with more heat), or has no gaps at all (pictures below, with less heat). I need procedures that I can reproduce. After wasting over 2 kg of filament I still have no clue why the UM2+ reacts differently everytime I switch it on. It's mindless trial and error. Anyway, since it can not even be turned on anymore, someone else has to bother with it now. Let's see what the vendor says.

You mean in Cura? Yes. Here are some more attempts in printing with the UM2+. 0.6 mm nozzle, increased print bed temperature to 110°C, enclosed the device as good as I could: Increasing temperature definitely does not help. Removed enclosure, decreased print bed temperature to 100°C: 100% failure rate. No idea where to look for solutions. Didn't touch the UM2+ over the weekend. Then switched it on again with identical settings. Suddenly it printed more or less fine. The prints with the 0.6 mm nozzle look mostly crappy, but printing a couple of pieces completed. This is absolutely erratic. There is no pattern I could recognize; same device, same settings, same filament, same files. One day nothing works, another day it works well. The only differences I could think off: Outside it's raining and a couple of degrees warmer than two days ago. Is the wheater and the humidity outside responsible for 100% failure rate? I hope not. ABS filament is now empty. Wasted about 70% of the material without learning anything except: Print success depends on luck. Switched nozzle again. Now trying 0.25 mm nozzle and another PLA filament. Everything begins at square one. Absolutely nothing works. It does not stick on a clean print bed, and it does not stick on glued print bed. That's how the "results" look: Zero adhesion to the print bed. The nozzle appears to scratch the printed material off the print bed which then sticks to the nozzle. Supplied glue is empty. Trying another one called "uhu" (water soluable glue for paper). Same results, nothing sticks to the print bed. Strangely, the fans do not turn. If I remember correctly, they did turn with the PLA profile. With the "Tune" menu, I set fans to "100%" (too bad I do not have a reference for the factory settings). After choosing "Resume print", the fans go off again. WTF. Again, factory fresh nozzle, PLA filament, 100% failure rate. Switching off the UM2+ and let it cool down. Sometimes this seemed to help. Switching on again. Now it doesn't even start anymore. That's great. This thing is about a month old and already dead. Quite a disappointment for a device that is considered easy to use and reliable.

I think I'm giving up. The 0.6 mm nozzle just does not work at all; if glue is on the print bed, it works like soap or grease (zero adhesion). The more I heat the print bed or the more I enclose the build space, the worse it gets. The print only sticks without any glue on the print bed after the print bed was cleaned with ethanol (not just tap water). It's quite the opposite of what everybody is telling me. I do not understand why this is so absolutely not working. The 0.4 mm nozzle I can not get clean. When pushing filament manually into it with the "atomic method", some plastic drips out of the nozzle, so it's not totally clogged, but nothing gets through in normal operation. Wasted one day trying to clean the "old" 0.4 mm nozzle (without success), wasted another day trying to get the new 0.6 to work (without success). This thing is a total productivity killer for me and I have no ideas left where to start debugging gazillions of issues. Btw, if changes to the ABS profile are saved of not is erratic. Sometimes the 260°C nozzle temp setting is restored, sometimes it is not not after switching the UM2+ off. The German distributor says that "most of the profiles" can not modified (whatever that is supposed to means) and that modifying the setting is not documented intentionally. Amazing. Also, if the fan is set to 5%, it does not turn, the setting is identical to 0%. I don't think that this causes any of the issues, but I just don't understand it.

I have read about it, but never tried it. The German distributor recommends a 1:2 mix of acetone and ABS, which I'd consider a very last resort if everything else does not help. I'm not particulary happy to add even more hazardous fumes into my office if it can be avoided. So far, the glue worked most of the time. Though at the moment I neither have a useable 0.4 mm nozzle nor can I get the factory fresh 0.6 mm nozzle to work, so it seems I'm doing even the basics wrong. Everything appears so totally erratic :-(

So what is the trick to make them last longer than a month when using them with PLA and ABS? There are two issues; first, my build plate does not heat evenly. When I set it to 100°C, the outer areas (~5 cm from the edges) are way cooler. I have a surface temp of 90°C there max. Second, I need about 3 cm extra for thick tape. Without tape, the brim and the printed object rise on the edges from the build plate (visible in DSC02233.JPG, right side; yes, I am using glue). This happened even on one side of the two-part print with ABS, a nozzle temp of 260°C, print bed heated to 100°C, fans off, glue, and tape; cleaned and leveld build plate directly before the two prints. Here is an inner edge of the baseplate as is is supposed to be: Here is an outer edge of the baseplate that is distorted/warped: I can tell if it is still useable if I manage to fix the other issues with the printer and then manage to print the remaining parts. Here is the two part print that came out almost perfect, but seems to have somehow ruined my 0.4 mm nozzle: Now I tried to switch to the 0.6 mm nozzle from the Olsson block included in the UM2+. Regenerated the files in Cura and reconfigured the printer setting, including leveling the build plate once more and applying fresh glue. Now all I get is this: 100% failure rate. Even with a factory fresh nozzle I am back to square one and the initial question ("unusable results with ABS").

For a couple of days, ABS worked quite well with the modified settings. I just have to remember to check settings after switching the UM2+ off; "Fan: off" is saved permanently, Nozzle and print bed temperature is not saved permanently to the profile. These InMoov parts were printed in a couple of days. Quality is good. No misprints in almost a week. But no luck with thing:172505 from Thingyverse. This is a base plate that doesn't fit flat on the UM2+ print bed (with brim and taping the edges): I just could not get it printed upside. During the 21 hours print time, something always cracked. E.g. the edges: Or parts of the support structures: Once I tried just to continue printing. After about 18 hours, the whole piece cracked from the lower support structures: Printing this thing is either for experts only, or requires a bigger print bed. The workaround is to make two pieces of it and print them laying on the print bed. This works like a charm with 8 hours print time for each part. Other parts of this thing printed fine as well, e.g. these mechanical eye lids. Then the nozzle suddenly clogged for no obvious reason, which is just scary. I did not even turn the printer off of changed the filament, the nozzle just stopped spitting out material during a print. Applying the "atomic method" seven times has no (zero!) effect. Trying to melt or burn the ABS did not work well (and I am unsure how much heat I can apply before the nozzle deforms). Then I tried to dissolve the ABS in acetone. This partly works (I can remove most of the dissolved ABS from the inside of the nozzle with a wooden tooth pick), but the nozzle still does not print. One step ahead and two steps back. Everything is delayed again until I can figure this out. I guess the nozzles have a limited lifespan, in my case about one month. Is this to be expected? Another crucial information missing in the documentation? The replacement parts I found on the net range between ~€15-18 plus ~€6 shipping for an "original" nozzle and ~€2.50 for a set of five no-name noozzles, which is quite a huge span. If I need €15-18 just for spare parts each month, that would be rather bad. Are there any recommendations for replacements and where to get them in Europe? At https://ultimaker.com/en/products/spare-parts, they only list a 0.4 mm nozzle that is "only compatible with the Ultimaker Original." Where do I get spare parts for the UM2+ that work well? Thanks!

Thanks, I guess that's what I have tried: Material -> Settings -> Customize In "Customize" sub-menu I change to: "Temperature: 0.60" (= 260°C), "Heated buildplate: 100°C" and "Fan: 0%". then "Store as preset", select "ABS". Return. Switch off printer, select "ABS", settings are gone (lower temperature, fans are turning). OK, now I try to keep the printer on, let's see if printing ABS still works (it did for a couple of days) or if something else is interfering again. I could print all parts from http://inmoov.fr/neck-and-jaw/inmoov-stl-parts-viewer/?bodyparts=Neck in ABS with 0% fan, and I think the parts are quite OK. Btw, here is another object that I totally failed to print so far: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:172505

So, I' back to printing with the ABS filament. The distributor told me that I have to switch to 250°C on the nozzle, 100°C on the print bed, fans switched off during printing. With some planless clickiing through the menus I entered these settings (I believe) and printing with ABS started to work quite well. After a couple of days I had to switch off the printer, the settings are gone and I can not find anymore where I entered them. Again I can not find anything in the PDF manual or in the updated online docs at https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/. Does anyone know where I can enter these values correctly, and how I could permanently overwrite the borked factory profile for ABS? Thanks!

Just a quick update. I got the problematic files printed; taping the brim to the print bed helped a bit, just enough to complete the prints. My spool of PLA is now gone, and I have switched back to ABS. I'm now getting along with ABS. It's crucial not to use the UM2+ presets for this material, they are bogus. The German distributor recommended significantly different settings: nozzle at 250°C print bed at 100°C turn fans off Also they recommended a mix of acetone and ABS (2:1) on the print bed instead of glue, which I haven't tried yet. These recommended settings are good, so far I get useable results now. I have no idea why UM ships the printer with presets that won't work. Some thoughts about the material; I think ABS is better suited for the InMoov project as the surfaces are smoother and the printed parts appear to be more rigid. Printing without fans has the advantage that it makes much less noise, mine started to squeek about two weeks after the purchase. Not so nice is what the ABS seems to emit into the air; after being a couple of hours in the same room, my skin startes to itch; I'm not sure if this material is really safe, and it's not nice to be not able to keep the windows open when printing (prints will fail if cold air gets in). A printed designed for ABS should be enclosed, first to keep the temperature up, second to prevent distortions due to ventilation, and thrid to protect the air from emissions. Another thing I really don't like about printing with ABS is the power consumption; it averages around 80W with peaks up to 160W. Considering that printing InMoov will consume a couple of hundred hours of printing time, this is not so great. PLA consumes ~20-40W. Anyway, ABS works with the modified settings, and results are quite OK. The skull is completed in PLA and will need painting; does anyone know which lacquer or paint will stick on PLA? The internals of the head up to the neck I'm goint to print in ABS; when the ABS spool is finished in a couple of days, I'll switch back to PLA; this time I'll try a white filament from a different manufacturer and compare the results with the ABS prints.

Here is a map of current InMoov builders: https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=z97J-N7M1tkw.kszNjXUbWLl4 Yes, I have started building. So far I have printed ~20 STL files for the head, each taking between 4 and 18 hours on the UM2+. It takes time. Some parts will need to be printed again, because the prints were not good, and some broke during assembling, disassembling and reassembling. But the skull is more or less complete. Originally I had planned to use the silver metallic PLA only for internal structures and got a white ABS filament for the outer shell. I think Gael's design is very smart as his InMoov just looks good. If he had built him in black or metallic colors, the huge robot would look scary. I agree, Gael is a genius in the sense that he confronted a seemingly impossible task and approached it by solving the challenges one by one. Companies like Honda or Toyota are throwing huge $$$ into their robot development, and suddenly a guy from France 3D prints a completely own design and even publishes everything he accomplished as Open Source, how crazy is that? :-) You just gotta love him for what he did and how he did it. Getting started with theUM2+ was easy in the beginning, as you can process a batch of files in Cura, then put a couple of folders with Gcode on the SD card and start printing for a couple of weeks without touching Cura again. Though, when you need to tune files and have to switch frequently back and forth bewteen printer and Cura, the UM2+ is not the best choice because of it's bad connectivity (that is, lack of connectivity). With the supplied PLA, everything worked fine right out of the box (more or less). Then I started to use ABS, and everything got borked. Here is a thread about my issues with ABS. It took a while, but now the UM2+ is working fine again with PLA. Most of the InMoov files are good to process with the UM2+ and PLA; there's only one I couldn't manage to get printed properly yet (SideHearV3.stl), I'll work on that today…

Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right sub-forum, but I'd like to point some attention to the InMoov project. The project's goal is to create an Open Source 3D printed life-sized robot. InMoov is not a toy, as of now, he has articulated finger, servo-controlled arms, he can speak (voice synthesis) and understands spoken language (speech recognition). He can be interfaced with hardware like Kinect and webcams, is being controlled through Arduino microcontroller boards and a scriptable software called MyRobotLab. Derivates equipped InMoov with sensors to smell chemicals or recognize touch. For me, InMoov was the reason to buy a 3D printer. Under best conditions, it takes about 90 days to build an InMoov. For most of us without experience in robotics, 3D design, Python scripting and so on, it might take significantly longer. So it's not a weekend hobby project, but still an extremely cool use case for 3D printing. Also it's a great learning tool to understand developments that we will have to face sooner or later. InMoov enables us, to take part in this development, before major companies impose their products and rules on us. Enough said for now. Have a look at the build instructions. All files are available for download and enhancement in STL file format. I have so far managed to print most parts of the head successfully, next comes the torso and the arms. There were some issues with processing ABS with the UM2+, so I went ahead with PLA. According to feedback I received about these issues was that some of the files could be enhanced. So maybe some of the more experienced builders feel an itch to throw in their expertise to make the InMoov files better. And last but not least, is anyone else here already printing an InMoov with an Ultimaker?

Oh my, what a handsome guy! :-) How long are you working on him (hmm, or "it")? Here is the InMoov thread.

Here is an update. The last two prints with PLA were successful. From yesterday: From today: That quality suffices for my requirements. So I guess I'm back to where I started before attempting to use ABS. I guess all the trouble was caused by a dirty and/or misaligned nozzle, somehow caused by using ABS. When the spool of Ultimaker PLA filament is empty, I will try ABS again, then we will know if the damages can be reproduced. I got a response from the vendor. They don't know the UM2+ and forward questions directly to the distributor (who doesn't know the filament the vendor is selling). The distributor told me a couple of months ago that they don't know anything about the Linux version of Cura as they have never used it. The lack of professional knowledge, combined with the insufficient documentation, is scary. Basically, this forum is the only source for qualified knowledge about usage of these devices. Regarding the print I aborted, there was no power outage. The brim became loose and the support structures tilted, resulting in spiderwebs starting to clog the print. I don't think that this has anything to the with the UM2+, the object is just too complicated and needs additional support or whatever. Trying to duct tape the brim is worth a try. Yes, there is a third leveling screw at the back of the printer. I can not turn it by hand, and during print bed leveling, the rear end is adjusted from the front with the jog dial. I don't even know if the read screw is supposed to be handled manually or if I loose warranty by toucing it. Doing anthing with the two front screws during a print just doesn't work for me. It ruins the print immediately. I need to figure out something else for the problematic objects, like the suggested duct tape. Since this thread originally was about issues with ABS, I will continue to update is as soon as I attempt to use ABS again. Regarding the InMoov printing, I think I will open a new thread as this (highly interesting) project seems to be not too well known over here. It's about 3D printing a life-sized robot with articulated fingers, moveable neck and arms, including object recognition, speech synthesis, voice recognition, embedding sensors and so on. It's a real challenge beyond just printing the parts ;-)

No, I did not use an "anders olsson helper" and I do not even know what that is. It can not be important as my UM2+ did not come with it and not even the manual mentions it. By the way, the whole point of this thread is that I can not print any complex object with the UM2+. So even if the manual would have mentioned that thing, I could not get it printed. Back to the topic. As expected, the print failed, this time after about an hour. No other parameters were changed. But there are a couple of noticeable differences: 1) The print managed to include ~1/5 of the object. Before, it was ~1/10 or less. 2) Also, the sides are much cleaner and the UM2+ is no longer "incontinent". In Cura I don't see any difference between "support material everywhere" and "support manterial only on build plate" (this was selected for the above print). This is the object SideHearV2.stl in cura. Next time I generate new Gcodes, I will check if it makes any difference for the print.

Yay! Got the nozzle out. Heating it to 150°C is the key to get it loose. That's how it looks like: Boiling in water doesn't dissolve the PLA. Solvents like Isopropylen or Acetone don't either. Took a lighter and a wooden toothpick, scratched the heated PLA from the nozzle's thread, and pulled remaining PLA out of the nozzle with a plier. Here is the "cleaned" nozzle and the PLA fragment: The PLA fragment looks similar to what I got with the "atomic method". Screwed the nozzle back in, leveled the build plate once more, now it prints…

Thanks to you both! I will try to remove the nozzle as I supect that it is somehow misaligned and causes the dirty prints. If I can not remove it, I will have to talk with the vendor and ask for advice how to resolve that issue without damaging the nozzle. Since they especially recommend this ABS filament for Ultimaker printers, they should be able to provide suggestions to make it work, without building a new case. If ABS can only printed safely with an enclosed case, then the UM2+ is not designed for ABS. Regarding the InMoov files… for sure it might be possible to enhance them with most excellent skills in 3D design; they are Open Source, so everybody is invited to improve them and share the results. However, this project is running for a couple of years already; it's goal is to 3D print a robot on cheap hardware. Meaning, 3D printers in the $450 DIY to $1500 price range. Considering the hardware hundreds of other people around the globe have managed to print their InMoov parts, the UM2+ should be a high end machine, guaranteeing best results with least effort. InMoov is definitely not designed for industrial 3D printers. So if something doesn't work, I'd blame the STL files last. My apologies for this post; currently I'm just extremely frustrated and I'd rather to not even have to look at this device anymore. The reason to buy an expensive "plug & play" printer was the assumption not having to bother with stuff I'm absolutely not interested in (how a 3D printer works, how to make buggy software work, how to work around incorrect specs…). I just wanted to get the parts done as quickly and smoothly as possible, it was supposed to be recreational fun, not tiresome debugging work. Obviously I was very wrong, and I'd seriously recommend the UM company to reconsider their misleading advertising. They need to communicate clearly that it takes weeks if not months to get the UM2+ operational, and they have to seriously enhance on the documentation. And it's just bad if they ship a filament that does not match their own profile for this filament.

Thanks! That approach sounds very reasonable! Excellent idea as the UM2+ comes with a "nozzle kit" (other nozzle sizes and some small tools) which used to be called "Olsson block". Found this description, but can't get the nozzle out with the provided tools. It's stuck. Is there a recommendation how much force I can apply? Should I try pliers? Checked both filaments I have. The one supplied with the UM2+ is called "Ultimaker PLA Silver Metallic 2,85 mm", but actually it is 2,92 mm. The "Form Futura EasyFil ABS 2,85 mm" actually is 2,96 mm. If these deviations from the specs matter, how can I tell the UM2+ about it? I can not find a setting in the "Tune" menu and it's not mentioned in the PDF manual either. Oh, I hate devices without proper documentation :-(

The JawV4 body part finished, but cracked when removing the support material. With some luck, easy parts like this finish as well: The parts have to be flat; my UM2+ can not reliably build objects higer than 1.5-2 cm. I made many attempts to "squish" the nozzle deeper into the printed filament, as recommended above. Maybe I do not understand correctly what I am supposed to do, but the failure rate with this approach is 100%. Here is a photo of what happens: Starting with a print bed leveled as recommended in the documentation, the UM2+ starts to print the support structure on the base of the object. Then I reduce the distance between nozzle and object with the two screws below the print bed. A few moments later, the nozzle starts to scrap parts of the object off the print bed. The object then either sticks to the nozzle, or crinkles like paper, then cobweb-like structures occur. Here is a detail of a crinkled object: The earlier I adjust the two screws on the print bed, the sooner the print fails: Here I tried to do that "squishing" thing when the support structures were printed. 100% failures and nothing to work with on this route. I have partial success when doing this: * Adjust the print bed more loose than the documentation suggests. The calibration card needs not to touch the nozzle. * Start with a slightly warm print bed, but it must not be hot. When the printer was working before, turn it off and allow it to cool down for >15 minutes. * Do not let the printer run unattended. Remove any excess material manually every 5-10 minutes. The nozzle must not hit excess material, if it does, failure is inevitable. With this, I'm getting rather decent prints. This is a photo of a 16 hour print that I "supervised" for 4 hours. View from the front: View from above: Detail view: Another detail view: That stuff sticking on the lower left side of the print is what I mean by excess material. It doesn't hurt as long as it's on the side, but as soon as this residue is in the nozzle's way and is not manually removed, the print will fail with 100% certainty. As long as I removed all excess material with tweezers, the object was printed cleanly. After doing this for four hours, I went to bed. Shortly after (about 2 mm of height later), the UM2+ went nuts again. Excess material builds bumps, these bumps refract the nozzle and the printer starts to spit out cobwebs. These are InMoov skull parts which are rather complex. Cura estimates 12-18 hours print time for objects like TopBackskullV1.stl, TopskullLeftV3.stl, or TopskullRightV3.stl. I can not babysit the UM2+ for that amount of time as I need to print out about 30 obejcts as complex as this. If the UM2+ can not operate unattended, it is just not suitable for this printing task. And here is an object I can not even remotely print on the UM2+. It's called SideHearV3.stl and is part of the inMoov jaw. I spent a whole day trying to print this thing and made a dozend attempts. I'm not getting further than shown in the photo above. I have no idea if this is to be expected with the UM2+ or if my device is somehow misaligned. Hoever, it's definitely not what I expect from a brand new €2300 third generation 3D printer.

As I said, it's not a mask but a InMoov body part and hundreds of people have printed it before without complaints. If UM2+ can not handle it, I just got the wrong 3D printer. The difference between the prints before trying out ABS and after trying out ABS is that the prints before were clean, had exact bondaries and clean surfaces. All prints after are not clean, have bumpy surfaces and more or less distorted boundaries. Currently I'm attempting to printing for the fifth time the JawV4 body part. This time I'm getting further than before because I increased the space between nozzle and print bed so that the calibration card did not touch the nozzle. The print is uneven and ugly as all other prints after trying out ABS, but maybe this time it will at least finish. In about four hours I'll know more. When the nozzle hits residue material that isn't even supposed to be where it is, I can hardly believe that a proper fix would be to get the part to stick extra well to the bed. It's a 3D printer, not a hammer drill. The only real fix is to figure out why my UM2+ leaves this dirt everywhere. A temporary workaround is to try to cut or file the residue off during printing, e.g. with pliers or a Dremel. If I'm fast enough, the print continues. If not, the nozzle becomes misaligned, resulting in a bunch of spiderweb crap as shown in some photos above.

Hi gr5, I have read your tips the first time you posted them, so thanks again. As mentioned above, the more narrow the nozzle is to the printed structure, the more probable is that the nozzle tears the structure apart during the print. See the last two photos from my post above how that looks like. The surface the UM2+ prints now is not flat, it's uneven because there is clutter everywhere. When you sit near the printer, you can hear the nozzle hit these bumps, and I believe that hitting those numerous bumps is causing the print bed to become unaligned after every print. Here are two detail shots that better illustrate what I mean: That stuff of the nose and below the eye hits the nozzle when it passes by. Here is another solid bump on the bottom right. I don't understand why the UM2+ does not print flat surfaces anymore. It did that just finde in the first prints. I have tried to adjust the 2 (!) leveling screws during printing, it does not work for me. I do not even see exactly how far the nozzle is away from the print bed when the nozzle is moving. My eyes are not fast or not sharp enough for that. It only works for me when the nozzle is not moving and I can put the calibration card between nozzle and the print bed. Then I can try to fine tune if the calibration card can freely move or if it clings a bit to the nozzle (calibration with help of haptics, not visually). I do not have 3 leveling screws. I have two on the UM2+, one on the left and one on the right of the print bed. The third point for leveling is not operated with a screw. I'm not sure I understand what you mean with 2) and 3). My UM2+ heats the print bed before it starts printing. Do you mean the preset temperature is too high or too low? Also I do not understand why the first set of prints before trying to use ABS were fine and after trying to use ABS everything is borked. Please remember, I am not interested in optimized, super perfect fine art prints. I just want quick, useable results. And no, I never had issues to get prints of the glass. As soon as they cool down to room temperature, they can be easily lifted from the glass with a cutter knife or a spatula.

Thanks gr5! I think I won't touch ABS anytime soon anymore. Because the UM2+ is supposed to support ABS, I thought I could make it work out of the box by changing the filament and changing the settings to ABS. I would expect having to do experiments when printing with exotic (not factory supported) filaments like wood or metal, but not with a supported material like ABS. I do not have time to make 100 test prints with ABS. At the moment I just want to get things done. So I'm back to the PLA filament supplied with the UM2+. Here are some reference images how the first objects looked like before I tried ABS: I'm quite happy with these results. Some sanding, and I can work with them. That's the quality I expected to get with a €2300 printer. However, after removing the ABS filament spool, cleaning the nozzle with the "atomic method", and leveling the build plate, I can not get clean prints with PLA anymore. It appears as if trying ABS once had totally misaligned the whole printer. That's what I get now: Some of the objects printed are no total failures; with a lot of filing I can fix some of them. But I'm not happy with the quality anymore. Other observations: I have to level the build plate after every print job that ran for 6 hrs. or longer. That means: The UM2+ requires manual maintenance at least once daily, usually preceeding every print. From what I have noticved, the probability to get bad prints with PLA increases the more narrow the nozzle is to the print bed. It touches overhanging material and rips the printed structures apart. Also print quality seems to get worse from day to day. The photo above is from a 9 hour print as I found it this morning in the printer. I somehow assumed that it would be possible to run the UM2+ unattended. This is a total failure, wasting a lot of material and energy. So do not let your UM2+ run unattended. Get a respirator and ear protection and babysit your printer. Really? Currently, the UM2+ does not produce anything but gibberish anymore. Here are some other attempts from today: Somewhere during printing, the structures crack. The PLA seems not to stick to the neighboring layer anymore. All the source STL files are from the InMoov project, so they were printed a hundred times across the globe and I consider it safe to assume the the STL files are as good and reasonable as they can be. I absolutely do not understand why a device received less than two weeks ago would produce that amount of failues with default settings for PLA and exactly the material supplied with the printer. I just don't get it.

Here are some photos for illustration:

Hi, I got my UM2+ about a week ago; opposed to my former UM2 it worked out of the box, e.g. I did not have to dismantle the feeder, the build plate was not misaligned. Nice! Printed a couple of things with the supplied "Ultimaker PLA Silver Metallic", no problems encountered whatsoever. Print quality is very similar if not identical to the UM2. All parts printed in PLA are solid and usable. No failures, no misprints. I was happy for almost a week. Then I switched the material to "Form Futura EasyFil ABS White", 2,85 mm, which my vendor especially recommends for the UM. I changed to the default settings for ABS and applied glue to the print bed (never needed that for PLA, but I followed the recommendations). The printed base did not stick to the glue provided in the UM box. In the next attempt, parts of the ABS stuck to the prinbed, others stuck to the nozzle. Tried to encapsulate the open front of the UM2+, next attempt resulted in no object printed at all, the UM2+ filled with a unstructured spiderweb of thin ABS fibers. Everything I tried resulted in totally unusable pieces of plastic, mostly not even resembling the object to be printed. The best result I could get was an 8-hour-print of the InMoov face. It cracked horizontally in seven areas during printing, and the left side split open for about 10 mm after 4 hours of printing. Is this to be expected? Am I doing something wrong? 1) As I said, I'm working with the default settings for ABS. Should these settings provide a reliable base, or are they totally wrong? 2) Which settings need to be changed? Where? In another thread it was mentioned that for printing ABS, "Fans should be at 0% for ABS (off)." My fans were on. Are there settings/printer profiles which include those recommendations? 3) Are issues like this to be expected with printing ABS on a unmodified UM2+, or is the material ("Form Futura EasyFil ABS White") not good, e.g. not compatible or otherwise not recommended for use with the UM2+? I am really puzzled. No problems with PLA and zero usable results with ABS. Is the UM2+ really designed to support both types of material equally? Thanks, Sandro

I did some more searching as I would like to avoid apt-pinning. According to http://packages.ubuntu.com/cgi-bin/search_packages.pl?keywords=python-wxgtk, Ubuntu 14.04 LTS ('trusty') comes with the package 'python-wxgtk2.8'. Starting with 15.04 ('vivid'), python-wxgtk3.0 becomes available, but there is no official backport for 'trusty'. This issue is being confirmed here https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2959&start=10#p19519 and https://code.alephobjects.com/T353. Aleph Objects suggests to use this PPA: https://launchpad.net/~adamwolf/+archive/ubuntu/kicad-trusty-backports. These are inofficial backports for 'trusty' which include the packages 'wxpython3.0' and 'wxwidgets3.0'. This adds the PPA: $ sudo apt-add-repository ppa:adamwolf/kicad-trusty-backports …and this goes into your sources-list: deb http://ppa.launchpad.net/adamwolf/kicad-trusty-backports/ubuntu'>http://ppa.launchpad.net/adamwolf/kicad-trusty-backports/ubuntu trusty main deb-src http://ppa.launchpad.net/adamwolf/kicad-trusty-backports/ubuntu trusty main Update package list with apt-get or aptitude and run and upgrade. And voilá, cura 15.04.4 starts! Many thanks to berndjm, Adam Wolf, and Aleph Objects!